Kane

Howdy, Anyone tried Race Tech fork springs, and what spring rate worked for you? In a 01 V11 with 190 lb rider, their site shows .90 kg/mm. A good Guzzi tech told me people like 1.0 for RT springs…..RT says that will be very stiff. Would love to hear what has worked for you. I’ve read good things about RT, I think GuzziTech uses them, and they’re just down the road from me! Cheers!

The rock of the stones happy

Some nice photos here: https://www.scintilla-design-digital.co.uk/MGST-01_2021/

I recently put a set of Michelin Road 5 on my ‘01 red frame V11 Sport. They seem pretty good, stable and sure handling. I am a recreational sport rider and commute with this bike. The Road 5 is supposed to be a very good wet weather tire, which is not much of a factor here in Southern California, but might be good for you. As docc has mentioned, I went with a 160 rear tire. I know that the specs for the bike call for a 170, and that’s what the bike had on it, but with the 160 the bike feel a bit lighter and turns in nicely, with no loss of stability, more sure-footed and spritely. I am not sure if this tire is offered in a 170 rear.

Thanks for clarifying that.

I think my five speed T3 may have been shimmed (by Sean via Bobby D whose bike it is) as there is no clunking, but she does not like to be rushed. It’s a one and two and three and four etc. dance, which is fine for a spirited loper, but the big block six speed on the V11 era Is good, plus you can add the LuckyPhil/Chuck upgrade lever, and get it sorted and shimmed. How is a shimmed or otherwise enhanced V11 six speed? Any details and testimonials to share?

Wow. Well, that’s a new one. I better sneak out and look around the yard some night and see what them ‘barrrows are up to!

Is the V7 you are referring to an earlier 1970’s 5 speed bikes or one of the later 6 speed small block bikes?

The six speeds are pretty good. Occasionally a false neutral, but if one pays attention and even preloads his/her shifts a bit, it’s all good. I go up and down like a yo-yo with mine on the terrible L.A. freeways and she’s solid and true. The five speeds are geared nicely and feel natural and satisfying, but it’s a different timing and cadence. The six speed is like cueing up and striking the stick. The five speed is like waltzing, “one and two and three and…..”. There’s a beat between the gears.

Hmmm. Nice imagery, Pete. Will “MOBYDICK” fit on a vanity plate? Would do well for one of those big white Norges.

The 1100 “V11” engine got Guzzi a lot of mileage. It served on the Tonti, spine, and the Griso style frames. What a great, robust motor! Was this not the zenith of the big block mills before they went to the four valve head? Those Tonti frame V11 cruisers are great for a sport bike conversion. I can see a carbed California in my future. The look of the Tonti cruisers has grown on me, just like the look of the Griso did. Unlike the sport bikes, T bikes, and loop frames, I did not care for those at first glance.

Pretty sweet! How many miles on the new motor? Your bike looks fabulous!

A better view of the 1299: You think your dry clutch is loud? This thing’s clutch sounds like The Gunfight at The OK Corral.

A couple of beauties! The Green Muse next to my friend’s Ducati 1299R Final Edition.

That is some beautiful work! Wow. What’s going on with the alternator? And what exactly is a Sfida 1000?

Thank you for that, John. You are a gentleman and scholar! And you’ve schooled me quite a bit here! Much appreciated. That’s great to know about the sizing, makes the system make more ease. Btw, what does ^2 mean? I am away for the weekend and early next week, but will follow up when I am able to get into this next week. Wishing all of you a great weekend! Cliff

Thank you very much, Weegie. That is incredibly helpful and gives me a much better of idea of how to approach this stuff. I was not aware of thinwall insulated cable, just basic copper wire. Really appreciate all of that great info. Thank you, guys!

Obviously I need to learn how to perform basic wiring repairs and tasks. In addition to the lighting and grounding issues with the V11, I would like to replace the dash and ignition switch on the T3 and add some running lights. There are a lot of areas of old electrician tape wrapped around the wiring on that bike, so I figure she’ll be needing some TLC. Wiring is one area that I am totally green in, and looking around today to fix my headlight ground I realized that I have a multimeter and a wire cutter, and that’s it. So, I am planning to buy a crimping tool and some assorted connectors and wire to get started. Any recommendations on good sources for this stuff? I know that Summit Racing sells wiring items. I am also curious what style of connectors and wire are preferred to work with on these bikes? I know there are open barrel, closed barrel, insulated, non-insulated, some with heat shrink, 3.5mm, 4mm, etc., and 14g, 16g wire. I believe this will also determine what kind of crimping tool to buy. I guess when your bikes get old enough you gotta take the leap and learn how to do this stuff. Any practical guidance to get started is much appreciated! Thanks

No instruments lights, they went out when all of these lighting issues began. Well I know better now about solid core wire and steering bearing. It was a quick fix with what was on hand. I’ll get some stranded wire on my way home and redo. Thanks, appreciate your input and advice!

After testing some of the wires it seems that the small headlight bucket harness has full continuity on all wires, yet the black wire running from the loom-side four point oval shaped connector back to the battery ground has no continuity. What has me a bit confused is the yellow wire at the same connector has continuity to one of the ring connectors at the battery ground. I’m not sure what the yellow wire is for, but I am pretty sure that the black wire is the ground wire. I am more tempted than before to remove the tank to see the loom as wires are strung tight and hidden. I am not sure why the yellow wire traces to ground, but it seems counterintuitive, yet this is all a bit fuzzy to me at best. I need to put this thing back together to get to work tomorrow, so I added a ground jumper wire from the headlamps’s black wire terminal to the frame and that seems to work as a bandaid to get the lights on. One thing that I am surprised by is how hot this new Drag Specialties $6 H4 halogen bulb gets. The bike had an LED bulb in it when I got it, and I put in the new bulb to sort things out, but it gets hot! Don’t recall this from the past, but then I never spent so much one-on-one time with my headlight as with this bike.

Tech Spec will make them for you and ship fast, no problem. I am still running with mine on the tank, and they work great. However, they will rub off and stain your pants. If you ride with light colored pants and grip the tank you may end up with stains that are hard to get out. Case in point:

Thank you, docc! That is very helpful info. I am glad to know that it is a direct path from headlight to battery ground.

After trying a few things to fix my headlight woes on my 2001 V11 Sport, such as dismantling and cleaning all headlight assembly connections and replacing the bulb, fuse, and relay under the seat, all to no help, all of a sudden my headlight is working fine. I figure the ground connection is faulty. The schematic shows the black ground wire from the 4 terminal headlight connector going directly to ground. Does anyone know where the ground terminal connection for the headlight ground wire is on the bike? Looking at the bike, the wire goes into a wiring sleeve and then under the tank. I am not sure if it terminates somewhere under the tank or it re-emerges in another place to terminate. It would be nice to not have to take of the tank if possible, as I have heard what a hassle it is to put it back. Anyone been there? thank you very much

So cool, and an 850T to boot!

You gonna check it out? Just for the heck of it?