mikev

I bought this one from MG Cycle, very nice stand. Need 2 18mm sockets to use it. Works great. Becker Technik stand, V11 Sport, 1100Sport Daytona Centauro. for $177.60. US

hear hear

My son recently got his motorcycle license and he has not been allowed to ride the v11 yet. He wanted to before he took the course, having completed the course gave him a newfound respect for motorcycles and his dad's advice & opinion on when he is ready to give it a go.

fun trip. like that relive content

Yep. I was able to loosen the clamps and get it back on. Bike is running better than ever, I'm sure the valve job helped too. Good tip on the radio sockets, will look for those. I will have to learn how to check throttle body balance. Interesting you had exactly the same issue.

Ok, it is odd because I already purchased replacements for those hose bits connecting the throttle bodies to the valves. The screws for those clamps face directly up. Do you think I need/should pull the tank to fix it? How do I fix that without screwing up something else?

Went over to the bike to see if i could locate the right side idle set screw and noticed this. seems like the left side is not firmly connected to the engine and air is getting sucking in through there. like it got pushed back or something.

.006 intake and .008 exhaust

I did the valves last weekend as recommended, home renovation project delayed my bike project. Idle is better but still not great.

https://apnews.com/article/treat-williams-crash-charges-295323baf3980e6bb33930ebada0e444

found this too, not the same bike but process looks similar.

found this thread while researching this more. we were getting closer than I thought to TDC last night using a modified "straw" method.

I definitely need remedial education on motorcycle mechanics. If you have any recommendations please let me know. It would be nice to have someone nearby to show me the ropes of decent tune up so I don't screw up anything. Ok, when piston is at its lowest point, Air intake and fuel in combustion chamber.

Not where I got the wrong name for that "fast idle" lever, the PO called it a "choke" maybe, or just my own novice error. Shifting the bike while it was on the stand didn't seem too easy and it was hard to tell which gear we were in. I was thinking I could manually move the flywheel with a screw driver or something. Will try the valve adjustment again in daylight when I have plenty of time. After reexamining some photos of parts in there, I wonder if we weren't looking too far left and not at the flywheel per se. Might need a bendy light probe to see further in the hole. TDC compression is when piston is at maximum height, correct?

Yes, its a bit warm here. Not Florida or Las Vegas warm but its pretty warm. Tonight after dinner, I removed both plugs, took off the left valve cover and the flywheel spy hole cover. My friend and I struggled to see TDC marks on flywheel by turning the rear wheel, probably in too low a gear. Sadly, we totally failed to see either the S or D mark. Could not spin the flywheel slow enough consistently for a complete revolution. Maybe spinning the alternator is an easier way to find them? We tried guesstimating TDC by looking at the piston come up in the left spark plug hole and honestly, I do think the gaps are tight, because I was never able to get the .004 gauge in any kind of gap on either intake or exhaust. There may be a gap, I just wasn't able to detect it. It was getting late so we gave up and I put everything back together. As I did, I described the symptoms I had noticed to him, loosing the neutral light and the choke not really working so well now and he said it sounds electrical, so I pulled the seat, replaced the two relays I had not swapped out and started pulling fuses. The 30 amp fuse was blown. I got to Autozone just in the nick of time to buy some replacements. Sure enough, after replacing the fuse, when I tried starting it, the neutral light worked again and choke was responsive, and the bike idled as usual. Will need to revisit the valve adjustments some time soon. Thank you all for the constructive comments.

thanks for that link, turns out the workshop manual I purchased is missing those pages somehow.

what is the torque spec for the valve covers? didn't find anything in the manual on it.

Maybe this is a novice question, but what changed during my ride? If the valves are too tight why did the bike run ok since October and then change on Sunday mid-ride? I re-read the valve adjustment thread and feel *comfortable enough* with step 6 to check and adjust the valves. Remove flywheel inspector, get to TDC, check the gaps.

it hasn't been a ton of miles since October. Maybe 1000 ...

I had the dealer service the bike and give it a decent tune up last Fall.

I went for a ride today, perfect weather. Made a couple stops, bike was running fine for about 100 miles. Stopped at an intersection to have a quick word on the route. No issues idling. Drove up the road a ways didn't notice anything on the way but at the next stop light my V11 stalled when I idled. Started right up fine, but from then on the idle is weak and it wants to stall. Was able to ride it 20 miles back home. Gave it a bit of an Italian tune up once or twice on the way but the problem persists. Choke seems to help a little but maybe not as much as before on a cold start. Changed the first 3 relays to be safe, no change. Neutral light no longer seems to light up, not sure when in this sequence of events that might have started. Pulled the plugs and they seem fine, just changed them last Fall. Looked damp and smelled a bit like gas. Any ideas on what to check next?

these were pointed out to me by andrew @mgcycle as replacement intake sleeve which is in stock https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=42

Yes, thanks. I've back ordered a couple of those.

Did a bit more research regarding the air temp sensor, and found a nice thread on them. I'm hoping mine is tucked away somewhere under the tank in a modified 35mm film container Also found the intake boots might be hard to find.https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/23486-rubber-intake-boots/ Maybe I can wrap them with some high heat black tape till I locate replacement parts?

Ok, we took a closer look at my airbox, tank removal instructions (thank you forum), and made a list of parts and questions. Airbox reminds me of a hippo skull. I am missing the front and rear main airbox bolts to the frame, one looks like it needs to be ~3.5" long (front) and rear ~2-2.5" long. There are three bolts for each side panel, some holes are different sizes. I have some oddballs in there that sort of fit. Anyone have specs on any of these bolts? I didn't see anything in manual, probably have to order them from McMaster. On the front left of air box there is a brass nipple for a hose connection. Can I ignore and seal this? Or reattach with new hose to wherever its supposed to go. Which is where? On the front right of air box there is a small rectangular hole flanked by screw holes on either side which I assume is for some sensor. I'll probably just cover this unless there is a good reason to find a replacement. Both holes would let air into box after the filter. I see two screws in red frame under tank / seat junction which I do not think are involved in this airbox but wonder what they are for. Can send pic if helpful. Same question for the two screws on the rear of airbox facing toward battery. What are they supposed to attach to? The boots closest to engine on both sides look a bit cracked. And should probably be replaced. Is that something I should do now? Or am I opening a can or worms? After reading tank off main list, I ordered new heat shield tape from McMaster, (it came within 24 hours). Expensive tape. Thanks in advance for any info.