mikev

found this thread while researching this more. we were getting closer than I thought to TDC last night using a modified "straw" method.

I definitely need remedial education on motorcycle mechanics. If you have any recommendations please let me know. It would be nice to have someone nearby to show me the ropes of decent tune up so I don't screw up anything. Ok, when piston is at its lowest point, Air intake and fuel in combustion chamber.

Not where I got the wrong name for that "fast idle" lever, the PO called it a "choke" maybe, or just my own novice error. Shifting the bike while it was on the stand didn't seem too easy and it was hard to tell which gear we were in. I was thinking I could manually move the flywheel with a screw driver or something. Will try the valve adjustment again in daylight when I have plenty of time. After reexamining some photos of parts in there, I wonder if we weren't looking too far left and not at the flywheel per se. Might need a bendy light probe to see further in the hole. TDC compression is when piston is at maximum height, correct?

Yes, its a bit warm here. Not Florida or Las Vegas warm but its pretty warm. Tonight after dinner, I removed both plugs, took off the left valve cover and the flywheel spy hole cover. My friend and I struggled to see TDC marks on flywheel by turning the rear wheel, probably in too low a gear. Sadly, we totally failed to see either the S or D mark. Could not spin the flywheel slow enough consistently for a complete revolution. Maybe spinning the alternator is an easier way to find them? We tried guesstimating TDC by looking at the piston come up in the left spark plug hole and honestly, I do think the gaps are tight, because I was never able to get the .004 gauge in any kind of gap on either intake or exhaust. There may be a gap, I just wasn't able to detect it. It was getting late so we gave up and I put everything back together. As I did, I described the symptoms I had noticed to him, loosing the neutral light and the choke not really working so well now and he said it sounds electrical, so I pulled the seat, replaced the two relays I had not swapped out and started pulling fuses. The 30 amp fuse was blown. I got to Autozone just in the nick of time to buy some replacements. Sure enough, after replacing the fuse, when I tried starting it, the neutral light worked again and choke was responsive, and the bike idled as usual. Will need to revisit the valve adjustments some time soon. Thank you all for the constructive comments.

thanks for that link, turns out the workshop manual I purchased is missing those pages somehow.

what is the torque spec for the valve covers? didn't find anything in the manual on it.

Maybe this is a novice question, but what changed during my ride? If the valves are too tight why did the bike run ok since October and then change on Sunday mid-ride? I re-read the valve adjustment thread and feel *comfortable enough* with step 6 to check and adjust the valves. Remove flywheel inspector, get to TDC, check the gaps.

it hasn't been a ton of miles since October. Maybe 1000 ...

I had the dealer service the bike and give it a decent tune up last Fall.

I went for a ride today, perfect weather. Made a couple stops, bike was running fine for about 100 miles. Stopped at an intersection to have a quick word on the route. No issues idling. Drove up the road a ways didn't notice anything on the way but at the next stop light my V11 stalled when I idled. Started right up fine, but from then on the idle is weak and it wants to stall. Was able to ride it 20 miles back home. Gave it a bit of an Italian tune up once or twice on the way but the problem persists. Choke seems to help a little but maybe not as much as before on a cold start. Changed the first 3 relays to be safe, no change. Neutral light no longer seems to light up, not sure when in this sequence of events that might have started. Pulled the plugs and they seem fine, just changed them last Fall. Looked damp and smelled a bit like gas. Any ideas on what to check next?

these were pointed out to me by andrew @mgcycle as replacement intake sleeve which is in stock https://www.mgcycle.com/index.php?main_page=product_info&products_id=42

Yes, thanks. I've back ordered a couple of those.

Did a bit more research regarding the air temp sensor, and found a nice thread on them. I'm hoping mine is tucked away somewhere under the tank in a modified 35mm film container Also found the intake boots might be hard to find.https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/topic/23486-rubber-intake-boots/ Maybe I can wrap them with some high heat black tape till I locate replacement parts?

Ok, we took a closer look at my airbox, tank removal instructions (thank you forum), and made a list of parts and questions. Airbox reminds me of a hippo skull. I am missing the front and rear main airbox bolts to the frame, one looks like it needs to be ~3.5" long (front) and rear ~2-2.5" long. There are three bolts for each side panel, some holes are different sizes. I have some oddballs in there that sort of fit. Anyone have specs on any of these bolts? I didn't see anything in manual, probably have to order them from McMaster. On the front left of air box there is a brass nipple for a hose connection. Can I ignore and seal this? Or reattach with new hose to wherever its supposed to go. Which is where? On the front right of air box there is a small rectangular hole flanked by screw holes on either side which I assume is for some sensor. I'll probably just cover this unless there is a good reason to find a replacement. Both holes would let air into box after the filter. I see two screws in red frame under tank / seat junction which I do not think are involved in this airbox but wonder what they are for. Can send pic if helpful. Same question for the two screws on the rear of airbox facing toward battery. What are they supposed to attach to? The boots closest to engine on both sides look a bit cracked. And should probably be replaced. Is that something I should do now? Or am I opening a can or worms? After reading tank off main list, I ordered new heat shield tape from McMaster, (it came within 24 hours). Expensive tape. Thanks in advance for any info.

maybe something here for you https://roxspeedfx.com/collections/block-risers

I removed this from my V11 Sport. I used it all last year or so with no issues. Comes with the cable as shown. If anyone has a use for it, make me an offer. Any reasonable offer will be accepted.

Using my son's windows computer I was able to get Guzzidiag to connect to my V11 this morning. CO trim was the number I most wanted to see and it was set to 0. Bike runs fine and idles fine so I didn't mess with any settings. The ECU top line had info but the bottom two lines were all 000's. Temp and RPM read well. RPM was about 100 less than what was displayed on the tach. Also, I didn't download any drivers. Only installed Guzzidiag_VO.60

I agree, just get a cheap windows laptop. Works effortlessly.

no for me, just crashes time and again Thread 0 Crashed:: Dispatch queue: com.apple.main-thread

runs fine on my sons windows laptop so I'm good to go

I'm trying to get guzzidiag to run on mac book pro running Ventura 13.4 Using The unarchiver got me past the first hurdle p6x mentions, but for me it still doesn't run.

unfortunately on my mac, I get this error The application “GuzziDiag_V0.60” can’t be opened. so will have to scrounge a windows laptop

unboxing my guzzidiag cable from lonelec

Just ordered a proper motorcycle stand (and some cool stickers) from mgcycle. Going to reinstall the airbox this summer.

My V11 came with UNI sock filters and airbox uninstalled. I don't really like with Uni socks and want to either replace them with K&N or reinstall air box. I kinda like the idea of reinstalling the original airbox, but taking off the gas tank seems like a pain just to change an air filter, and i have an oddball assortment of screws for it that may or may not be correct. So I'm looking at K&N filters. Does anyone know the part # of K&N filters that would fit? Want to confirm before I buy them.