cowtownchemist

I also wear full face helmets. I have not had any issues removing the ear plugs, they have a little tab that sticks out to grab them by. Can't do it with gloves on though. One note specific to my situation is that the bigger JBL speakers on the Cardo though don't fit completely into the pre-made speaker indentations in my helmet (HJC i10) which causes them to protrude a bit and rub on my ears when putting the helmet on. When this happens, the earplugs sometimes get dislodged while putting the helmet on and I need to get my fingers in there and re-secure them. This caused me to one time push the ear plug in too far and sideways which was not a good situation. I did have a little difficulty that one time getting it back out. But I blame this on user error and my specific helmet set up. When I use my other helmet (Sena Outrush R), without the big speakers I have no issues at all with the earplugs when putting the helmet on and off. There is a huge improvement of the Cardo Freecom 4x vs the built in Sena on the Outrush R helmet. Volume, sound quality, voice communication with Siri, voice communication with the Cardo system are all far better features that the Sena does not have.

Has anyone tried an inline resistors with the LED turn signals to regulate the flashing? I am contemplating this upgrade and have a few of these laying around. https://www.af1racing.com/OXOF374-Resistor-Pair

I wear these earplugs which are great for reducing wind noise and other high pitched sounds. Its nice with the little keychain case so I always have a place to put them when I take them out. https://www.amazon.com/Motorcycle-Protection-Motorsports-Parachuting-Open-Topped/dp/B08FDH1XKL/ref=sr_1_3?keywords=motorcycle+ear+plugs&qid=1689253641&sr=8-3 I have a Cardo Freedom 4x with the upgraded JBL speakers in my helmet. I really like it. The sound for music is much better than the Sena one I have for my second helmet. The Cardo also integrates with Siri on my iphone. So I leave the phone in my jacket pocket and have complete voice control over music, phone calls, text messages, and GPS directions. Also the Cardo has a build in FM radio which is nice sometimes, but the antenna is so small that I only pick up the strongest radio stations.

I'll be going there in October! Any tips/recommendations for what do in the area?

Unfortunately I just placed a Speedhut order 2 weeks ago or I would have jumped on this. For reference for anyone looking, I just payed Speedhut ~$500 for the same two gauges.

Well I placed my order for SpeedHut replacement gauges. Just under $500 out the door. I went with the design below. The background is gray instead of white. I really wanted them to glow red at night and they did not offer a white face/red glow option. So I went with gray. I think they look pretty good! I'm sure I'll be stopping back by this thread after they are delivered when I go to attempt the installation.

Last night I finally completed my Decent Tune up. I got my throttle bodies balanced and set the idle. I did have a little issue with the tubes from the Carbtune. I originally hung the Carbtune from the handlebar like the instructions tell me too, unfortunately I didn't notice right away that the routing caused the tube to be in contact with the engine. After I was making good progress on the tuning, the bars in the tuner started to not respond and were behaving strangely. I tuned off the bike to take a break and saw that I had melted one of the tubes... So after fixing that and using my lawnmower handle to hang the Carbtune towards the back of the bike and route the tubes clearly away from the engine I had no problem getting the carbs synced up. I did have a little overheating issue prior to getting the idle set despite having a fan blowing on the engine during tuning. However, after I let it cool down, I got the idle set nicely and took her for a spin. Wow, this bike is just so pleasing to ride! Makes me feel guilty that I don't pay as much attention to my V7 anymore...

After a little bit of reading on their site, they do offer a non-flammable version which does not use mineral spirits and therefore will not swell rubber.

DeOxit is great stuff on electronics but not really great on rubbers. 75% of its formulation is mineral spirits. https://caig.com/product/deoxit-d5s-6-lmh/

Thanks Docc. I had the dimensions and photos from that thread printed out and took them to a few places around and nobody was wanting to do it. I don't have the tools necessary for cutting metal to do it myself.

Hi Max, Welcome to the forum. I am also in Columbus. I have been looking around town for a metal fabricator to build me a tail delete for my 2000 V11. Would this be something in your wheelhouse?

I also recommend reading the document called "How to remap your bike for CARC, Breva 750, V7 Classic, California 1100" found at the end of that hyperlink. It told me all I needed to know. I just went through this last week. http://griso.org/

So yesterday evening I confirmed it was a voltage drop which was causing the Guzzidiag disconnect. I checked the battery voltage after work and the voltage held steady throughout the day at 12.5V. I put the charger back on it and brought it to about 13.0V. I then booted up Guzzidiag, connected, started the engine, and the connection held! After I got the bike up to temperature I was able to adjust the CO trim. It was initially set to -50. I tried a few small adjustments of increasing by 5 at a time. The frustrating thing was that Guzzidiag is forcing me to exit the program after each adjustment. It won't let me make multiple changes to the CO trim without first closing the program, shutting off the bike, reopening the program, restart the bike, and then make the next adjustment. Oh well, just a minor inconvenience. I decided to just go finish with a CO trim setting of -5. After that I went for a ride and HOT DAMN is that throttle smooth!! I am now about 3/4 of the way through the Decent Tune up with each step making a noticeable improvement in the engine performance. Up next is the throttle body balance. After that I will probably play around with tweaking the CO trim some more and try a couple of the bin files floating around to see how they feel.

Hey everyone, I'm digging up this old post as I experienced a similar situation. Yesterday was my first boot up of Guzzidiag. I have the official Lonelec cables, used the cable driver from the Guzzidiag site. The latest Guzzidiag version. I was able to connect to the V11 no problem. Used the reader to save my current map and the went to check the CO trim. But here's where the problem happened. The connection between Guzzidiag and the bike was just fine until it asked me to start the engine. Upon starting the connection broke and the software froze. I had to end the task and restart. Tried again and the same thing. I repeated this a couple times without changing anything (insanity I know...). So I gave up for the night and started researching the wealth of information on this site and found the above post about a voltage drop being the likely root cause of the disconnect. I believe Guzzidiag inadvertently diagnosed that I have a dying battery. I checked my battery voltage and it was down to 11.8V or about 20% state of charge. And now with this new info looking back I have also had a few start issues where it takes me two times to get it going. I put the battery on the charger for a bit last night and got it back up to 12.8V and this morning I am at 12.5V. This evening I will charge it back up to 12.8V and attempt the CO trim adjustment to confirm that the voltage drop is the root cause of the disconnect. Btw, I was able to display the current CO trim setting on the bike which is at -50. I just couldn't 'Finish' the adjustment. So if the bad battery is confirmed, I think I am going to switch over to a lighter lithium one.

So not today but over the weekend I got through my first valve adjustment, spark plug re-gap, TPS reset, and brake fluid flush performed on the V11. Next up is the throttle body balance followed by the GuzziDiag CO trim adjustment. I also acquired a few of those Viton o-rings to replace the originals on the air bypass screws. Almost done with the decent tune up! Is it recommended to re-map the ECU with the Meinolf map no matter what? Or do the re-map only if a performance improvement seems necessary?

The front fairing on my 2000 V11 is fiberglass. The side fairings are plastic. I took mine to a couple body shops for an estimate on a repair on a deep scratch, not a crack. Both of their first response was "How much is a new one??" Both shops came in at about $350 for a complete resurface including sanding, repairing the deep scratches and repainting. The paint was the most expensive part where they told me that the paint alone was over $100 in their materials cost. The second shop told me the best way is to just do it myself and gave me pointers on grit of sandpaper and how to paint. The biggest thing he emphasized is to allow a couple days of curing between coats of paint and the clearcoat. He told me to leave it out in the sun for a couple days to dry between coats. He estimated it would probably take me a month to do it myself if I followed his advice. So as a temporary fix I just got a color match paint pen from autozone and colored in the scratches while I ponder what my long term solution will be.

Just sharing a couple pics of my recent audio projects Original Large Advents fully recapped, refoamed, reupholstered, and rebadged. In here you can see the Marantz 2270 which is currently on my bench for a full restoration. Heathkit W5-M monoblock amps fully recapped and restored. Before pic. The after pic of the W5-Ms with my Bozak 302a Urbans, which also have been fully recapped and upgraded crossover

Thanks for the link on the fader series. I didn't know Caig made this product. I will start using this on my vintage audio restoration projects!

Thanks for these pictures. It makes the basket drop look like a pretty easy task. Mine definitely has the signs of the seat compressing on the battery.

I thought a lot about retaining the original look to the gauges. But my V11 already has a number of customizations and I know I will never sell it as a show piece. So I'm just going to go ahead and make it mine. Since the bike is black with the red frame and porkchops, I'm actually thinking of using this color scheme with the Guzzi eagle printed in there

Thanks Samdroid, I will double check voltages at the battery later tonight to confirm. P6x, that Quota ES tach does look identical, but for that price I'd rather go for the modern Speedhut version.

I repainted the tach needle with some orange acrylic paint and sealed the tach back up using a clamp to hold it down and lightly tapping all around the bezel with the rounded side of a ball peen hammer. Went to reinstall it on the bike only to notice I put the face plate on upside down... So I opened it back up again, rearranged the face plate to the correct way and sealed up it a second time... I replaced all of the relays for preventative maintenance. I'm not sure how to check the proper function of the voltage regulator, but I did confirm that the 30amp fuse looks good with no signs of overheating and that I am getting the expected signals through the tach wires. At this point I am officially giving up on getting the tach working and will continue with my original plan of ordering Speedhut replacements. On the positive side, I played with the routing of the speedometer cable and noticed a significant reduction in the amount of needle wobble. Its still not exactly stable, but definitely allows me to make a better estimate of how fast I am going!

So I glued in the counterweights and tested. As expected still no signs of life. I looked closely at the wires down below and it appeared that the unattached wired on the post is just the remnant of broken copper wire coming off of the spool. I looked at the spool and saw what looked like a loose wire in there so I fished out and wrapped it around the post and soldered it on. It is not a pretty soldering job, but it was a tiny little space in there and the magnet kept pulling the soldering iron to it. The spring was a pain to deal with as it kept getting all twisted so in the end I ended up de-soldering it to straighten it out and the soldered back in place. It is still a little wonky compared to how it started but seems to work. I hooked the tach back up to the bike for a test…still no signs of life…

As I was prying a small piece of the counter weight fell out of the unit. Problem #1 identified. Upon removing the mechanism from the housing I had the second full counterweight fall out. Problem #2 identified. Upon close inspection of the contact wires which many have said that they have found detached I see one is attached and the second appears broken. Problem #3 possibly identified. It is not clear to me exactly where to re-solder this second wire to. Searching the forum I read that a few have done this and posted pictures of it but those picture links don’t work anymore. My next planned step is to put the counter weights back together with a little drop of superglue and test the tach without attempting a re-solder and see what happens. I don’t think this will work but I will try anyways. My question to you who have done this repair before, do I need to re-solder that second wire to something and if yes, to where?