andy york

Sprockets should be no problem - they are all "keyed". should be dots on the sprockets also to help timing. If in doubt, set #1 cylinder top TDC, take a picture, and then proceed. It is my understanding that your "new" cam chain tensioner is a "new" version of the old style. I have one in the tool box. never installed it. 116,000 miles on the original and still going

they added some sort of aux. starter system. My problem originated in the relay area. thats why i carry a small screw driver so I can jump start it . I took my relay receptacles out . Still have a broken wire I can not find

Don't bend the bracket all the way to the sump. Need to get you a picture. There Is a spacer that goes between the back of the kickstand and the sump. Somewhere along the lines of 5mm ? I used steel washers. I see that you are in Nashville. Let me know if I can help

Hi you are missing the bottom mounting bolt or it broke off. There is a thread about this repair somewhere on this board....Docc may chime in and give further directions ... he's the pro andy

Geez I get 50,000 miles or better out of my rear pads

I use schaeffer oils and lubes http://www.schaefferoil.com good stuff thats all I wills on the matter LOL

Really ?

I have never over heated the front brakes on my LeMans. i have run out of brake on the rear. I am a person that likes braking. I also like a little bit of trail braking but even that can over heat the rear. And like other things, once you reach the point of over heating, you have to go so far in the "other direction" to cool them down again.I would really like to ride the road you speak of Like you said, bigger caliper- more fluid-more pad area = more resistance to overheating. a little air scoop wouldn't hurt either LOL

Sorry, I have to say it. Adequate for what ? Normal street riding,yes, its ok. For anything else, track, mountains, or any form of "hard" riding it is not adequate. It is to small and does not have enough capacity. There is also a lack of airflow in its current position. Been wanting to upgrade for years, Life keeps getting in the way andy

Theory only, unless someone knows the engineer that designed it ..... The box itself is captured by the axle in the swingarm. Not going to have any"movement" there. We have a 2- piece driveshaft that is capable of being "variable" length. With the stock rod in place with stock bushings there is a limited amount of up and down movement. Now this is my own thought....the box could care less about what kind of rod ends are on the Reaction rod. The only movement the rod is trying to prevent is the box "climbing the gears " as we accelerate and "falling down" as we decell". It will also keep the driveshaft within a certain parameters throughout its movement. I was one of the early ones that made a nylon type bushing for mine. I have 100,000 miles on it and 115,000 on the bike.Whether it was the right thing to do...only more time will tell. so far so good the experiment I did was to remove the rear wheel and reinstall the box with axle and tighten up.I took the bottom shock mount out and installed a good stock reaction rod. Not much up and down movement. You could get the box to sit a whatever Height you tighten the Rod. Put my rod back in with homemade bushings... and as we say down here....It was smooth as butter. Full travel of the swingarm. Maybe I was wrong ....maybe I was right ....it sure rides nice

could you define axial for me?

I really would rather not rebuild a motor if not needed. I'll see how much more evidence I can collect. Agree with the above statement but if there is a problem it needs to be corrected. The rocker arms are under pressure / or lack thereof. I believe I read that you said this motor had a lack of oil pressure . If so, my line of thinking would be to start with the oil pump.If it looks good, it probably is. Next are the big ends. In theory, you should use new rod bolts on reassembly. Or wait on those, pop a head off and take a look at the tappets and camshaft. If your batting a .1000, then try and look at the big ends. All can be accomplished with motor in frame. Mirrors and a couple of light sources make checking the big ends easier. Did you check the oil filter? sometimes the sealing ring will stick to the filter console. Then when you put new filter on you have 2 O-rings ...BOOOM loss of oil pressure..... In any case if the above happened, you should check it all anyway if the engine was run for any length of time. Curious minds will follow this till the problem is found !!! andy

In my Non-professional opinion, It looks like a lack of oil / oil pressure. There are 115,000 miles on my beast of burden and mine do not look like that. It would probably soldier on but if it were mine, I would give it a good going through. Buy a gasket kit and the pull it down. If you have gotten this far you can do the rest also . Its not that complicated.I would like to say that the big ends are somewhat first in line to get oil, but memory is fading lol At least pull the front cover and check the oil pump and the faces of the gears in the pump. something is amiss if you had low pressure. thats where I would start. keep us posted andy

Maybe I missed something in above and I hate to be crude....lol.... have you tried jumping the hot to the solenoid with a screwdriver or such ? Just a quick way to see if the starter is actually functioning.

by the way I have a new starter button assembly complete. Unplug old one -plug in new one - nada back to the screwdriver

It seems the starter button has lost its ability to make magic smoke. I will pull the tank and make sure my hardwired side stand switch is still hardwired, but other wise, I am using my new key.... screwdriver across starter solenoid. It works everytime. I haven't wasted to much brain power on this one but I think I would just like to wire in a different button or maybe even a key switch like my old V7 sport has. Any ideas ? Roy this one is for you hahaha andy

How many miles on the bike and is it a single plate or twin platter? I have 115,000 miles on mine. Original clutch. I don't drag race but I'm not "easy " on it either. With what you have told us, I would say its not the clutch itself . I think you have other problem/problems. andy

That company also sells a bucket for that Headlite. I Purchased one also. There bucket is about 5mm to wide on each side to fit the ears of a LeMans( rosso-tenni-etc...)It also has a vertical and horizontal adjustment assembly that I did use as well as the trim ring that came with the new bucket. The beauty to me is that I used the stock bucket and I can use the cool little stock vertical headlite adjustment. It would be quite the pain in the arse to have to take the fairing off to do the headlite. when I was done I had a new bucket (that I did not use) an old adjustment setup and the old trim ring left over. Had to drill a couple holes in the old bucket. But hey its all fun when your making it better.

Yes - Thats the one. Kinda pricey - about 350.00 us - but I had to do something. I Know you can not put a hotter halogen in cause the system can't handle the load. This was my best alternative, plus it should be less draw on the charging system. there are many more options, but they involve a lot more work than what I did. In the end, I wanted a new type of lite. I feel the stock guzzi headlite is a piece of shit. Its just a big blob of lite that doesn't do anything. It has no Focus through a clear lens. If it was a projector lamp that would be different. It needs all those steps and facets on the inside to make the lite go where it needs to be. And the fact that its a plastic reflector doesn't help either. good luck !!

pic

I was riding back from Atlanta on the super slab at night a couple weeks back. I stood up and put my hand in front of the bike to see if the light was on. Thats how bad my headlight was. I told myself no more night riding till I have a proper headlite. I bought a J.W.Speaker 8??? and put it on the bike. No official night time ride of any distance, but preleminary results are outstanding. It takes a bit of work to make it fit, and requires more than a screwdriver. And NO I did not document the install very well. Probably have to take it apart to figure out what I did LOL... maybe my pics will load

You do have an abnormal beast. Just like me lol the purpose of "valve clearance when cold" is cold metal is smaller than hot metal. Ideally when cold, set the lash, as motor warms up( in a perfect world) valve lash would be .000 If you set the lash when the engine is hot, in theory, you could have 2 or 3 times the desired lash if setting to spec. I suppose you could get it hot, set the lash to .000, but do you really want to take the chance.

OK give me another spot to test this from. Mine is 2002 model, manual fuel petcock. I bypassed the side stand and clutch switiches years ago. fuel pump is in the tail. Maybe this has to to do with the starter button sometimes not working. sometimes the button will not work but I can jumpstart the solenoid with a screwdriver lol gotta love it

Cold means ambient temp. Old Porsche's require Cold engine to adjust valves. Rocker arm adjustment VW bugs are to be done cold also.