andy york

Hi there Its been a few years since I have done a gearbox. And I have done a few . I like your theory.....but....I think you will have the damnedest time trying to get 4 shafts back into the trans housing and there associated bearing races on the other end. horizontally. Its hard enough to to on the bench. vertically. And the more I think about this .....NO just no. you have to pull the splined hub off the front of the trans in order to separate into its 3 pieces. also yes ....you will need some special tools. You might be able to get through most of it without them, but a special tool is required for the disassembly of the shaft with the "flexible hose" as they call it. I have the tools to use if you are interested unless you can find someone on the west side that has them. I will try and refresh myself with the procedure...ie i have a trans in the shop semi assembled or not depending on your point of view... andy

2002 V-11 is the same as yours

there appears to be a ghost in your picture

could be that the rear vent is blocked. Even if I overfill it never puked out from there. Mine always comes out the rear vent and then migrates around to the right side. Definitely won't hurt to examine that angle drive. Be careful!!!! there is a washer that goes on the bottom of the angle drive....and it can make its way off the drive before you get it clear of the gearbox. Pesky little devil it can be ... andy

seems I can't even keep up with myself these days.... glad you got it taken care of hollar back if I can help (thats what we do down here ....hollar) andy

Don't mean to take up space with this guys Sorry for the delay i just saw your email what guzzi tool are you looking for ? if I have it I will send it to you andy

WOW good your OK ! on a lighter note --- mine lasted longer than yours!! just looking at the pics- looks like the flange failed somehow....hairline crack - bolt loosed - something Im sure you will get to the end of it glad you have one on the way I think I will start looking for one myself ps we had this conversation about the "window" on the front joint cover. Did we not determine that yours is somehow different? pss can't make the raid have a show that got in the way plus I'm working on the bosch starter on the v7 sport

Um...you could do that but it is really not a good way to confirm oil pressure. if you remove the sending unit use a proper pressure gage to tell you whats going on. You can probably blow hard enough to make oil come out of that small hole....my point being that yes you can start the motor and oil will probably gush out....but ultimately you need to know some kind of pressure. Maybe a parts store has a gage you could borrow. andy

Docc, Is this not what we did to yours a couple years ago?

yep thats the one don't know where mine is always wanted to get an artist buddy of mine to add a LeMans fairing to it and then get some made andy

Hi I used to have a t-shirt with that caricature of a v-11 on it. you know anything about the shirts or the drawing ? thanks andy

OK, I'm looking for 2 wires in the relay area. 1 is the wire that controls the start button. 2 is some sort of main flow wire - with the bike running, wiggling wires cause the engine to stop I have pulled all the wires out of the relay blocks and just have the bundle laying in the tail section. Hopefully it is much easier to trace wires and possibly find a broken wire. andy

120,204 miles on mine i think i'll keep it a bit longer andy

bring it on over - already done 1 this year. Leak from the same spot ...upper left (looking at it from the front). For some reason there is some movement of that cover and snugging up that bolt will not help because the gasket has been "rubbed through". It may still be in 1 piece but it will be thinner in that spot. Yes use the newer metal core gasket...have not seen any leaks with it. Yet ! I don't know if you have the ability to remove the front wheel but that can be helpful. Then hit the stator nut with air gun and off she comes. I have a double deep well socket I can send you to fit over the shaft. Lemme know andy

maybe i will pull mine out and have a look see. rode hard and put up wet many times. but my my my she loves it

thats an understatement ! Merry Christmas

Bill, you really have no need being intimate with those parts. Stand up and swing a leg over it, and go ride . nice looking two wheeler.

I think you need to have a conversation "butterball's" guardian. don't be blaming butterball. oh and by the way what happened to Sophia? Does she know she's being called "butterball" "you in a heap o trouble now, boy"

I would also vote for a quality control issue. First spring broke at about 10,000 miles. Second spring broke at 30,000 miles. At that time I bought the kit ...blah blah blah. No problems for the last 80,000 miles. On a similar note...my 73 V7 sport broke a spring and only has 11,000 miles. 5-speeder. Definitely a contaminated piece of metal. Look like a broken tree branch....if you have ever broken a dying tree branch...part of it breaks and then tears length wise for a bit till you start peeling the bark ..almost like it was torn off not broken. I think the design is ok....Luigi was not following the recipe andy

a bit of heat and it will slide right out andy

sorry couldn't help myself

um the sky is falling the sky is falling

WoW ! no bearing at all !!! With one side of the ring gear flopping around, I would think the box would be destroyed. Your conscious will have to guide you. there is no circlip. seal , washer, bearing are you sure the bearing did not come out with the ring gear and fall off on the floor or something weird like that ? inquiring minds want to know.

late to the party as usual.... something is definitely amiss if one cylinders adjustments had to be dramatically changed to A: get everything installed again ... B: to get some sort of valve clearance. maybe the flywheel marks are correct but it was not installed proper. Maybe this motor has been "into " before. In my head, even if you were a tooth off on the cam to crank timing, it would not require such a drastic valve lash change. In your last reply the left cylinder is at TDC and the valves are open. To me ....TDC is compression stroke -valves closed. You can zing a motor-bend the valves- and run the motor. It will suck on the bottom and appear ok on the big end. stumble -backfire-cough and puke down low ....but the bend is ever so slight ....and then on the big end seems to run ok ...cause things are happening in there so fast ... its not mine but... I would at least do a TDC check on each cylinder WITHOUT looking at the flywheel. left cylinder TDC valves closed set/ check lash ....right cylinderTDC valves closed set/ check valve lash. lots of knowledge available around here so keep us posted

We missed you and the misses this year. I am sure you will have a much more interesting adventure... see ya soon