gh67

I just spoke to my dealer about my recent spring failure that they fixed under warranty last month. Now that I knew about the bulletin, I was concerned that they unknowingly did not replace the pawl. So in my first call today, they stated that they weren't aware of any Pawl service bulletins. I then sent them an FYI fax (with a courteous note) of the bulletin. I received a call back from the service manager/GM, stating that he didn't know why I was going through this much trouble and of course he put these parts (ie..pawl and spring) into the bike and I shouldn't have assumed otherwise. To make thing more interesting, the work order shows only one replaced part number for the spring...no pawl. In any regards, I thanked him and said that I just wanted to make sure since I was heading out of town on a bike trip soon. Can't say I'm completely comfortable that my bike has the new pawl nor the way the dealer just handled the situation....and I'm tempted to take it out and measure even if it is a bit on the anal side. ...I almost can't wait for the bike to run out of warranty so that I can just fix everything myself. Maybe a new dealer in my future down at GP in San Diego. EDIT: Ok...so a little more research and a more light on the issue. The part number on my warranty invoice for the service was "04238300", which according to the below string (and awesome picture from andy york..thx) is the larger 19mm spring. It is starting to sound like the dealer put the larger "replacement" spring on the old 16mm boss/pawl and may or may not have known about MG's official bulletin. Has anyone had experience with this verison of the fix? Does it last? http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?...opic=2778&st=30 If this is the case, it is unfortunate that the dealer did not elaborate further as to the fix after I inquired. But then again, he probably not used to V11lemans.com informed customers who care this much. I'll sleep a little better....but may still go to GP for my next issue just because I'm a bit ticked.

Use a battery tender (regulated trickle charger) whenever you aren't actively riding.....your battery will love you much longer.

Al, glad you finally got them...really great videos! the one you posted was for manuals, but the same seller had this one......same cds. http://cgi.ebay.com/ws/eBayISAPI.dll?ViewI...4544207764&rd=1

Mr Bean....my thoughts exactly. Let me know what MI says. I just had a spring replaced 2 weeks ago and I know they didn't change the pawl...doubt they were (or are) aware of the issue.

Are you still under warranty? If so...go in. I don't have and haven't heard of any others with any problems with reduced back pressure causing this type noise. My rear signals vibrate more do to the louder pipes...that's about it. The fact that it only does it with the clutch disengaged or neutral is concerning. And you did confirm that you know what the dry clutch is supposed to sounds like. Otherwise, I would get your metric tools out and make sure every nut/bolt/hex that you can see is tight (alternator cover, oil cooler, head pipes, crossover support...etc) Hopefully it's just something loose that vibrates at a certain harmonic. Can you get a 2nd set of ears and have them help you locate the noise?

Well my first TPS and TB synch went fairly well. I'd be curious to hear about anyone else’s specific techniques using the TwinMax in regards to sensitivity setting and checking higher rpms. If I keep sensitivity about mid-range, it stays almost perfectly on 0. Though if I turn the sensitivity up towards the max, and then blip the throttle, there is a fluctuation that looks to be towards the left cylinder. Any further adjustment to remedy this screwed up my idle....so I went back and based the synch off the idle balance. Both air bypass screws were closed for the ballance and I left them with 1 turn open....with same throttle blip results on TwinMax. In addition, on the the TB Balance portion of the training videos from Paul.....it states that the TPS should be 3.8 degrees or 550mV +/- 5mV (not the 500-525 that I went by). Anyone else ever seen the 550mV?

I just downloaded Paul's training cd's....on disk 2 there was a PDF with a collection of Service Annoucements for all Breva 750's, California's, and V11's. I extracted the ones for V11. JAAP/Al: Feel free to delete the files once the FAQ is complete. Service_Annoucement_17_2003___Connecting_Rod_and_Flexible_Coupling.pdf

Thanks Al, good to know. My TwinMax was delivered today...tomorrow I'll be setting (and cussing since it's the first time) the TB and TPS and hoping for the best. I have open airbox, stucchi and giannelli's. I'm using "Salomon M's" map off from Todd's site.....same setup except for he has Ferracci's. Believe my TPS is OEM, crossing fingers that is the prob.

I'm in a similar situation. Using a Guzzitech map (thanks!) until I finish out my mods and get a custom one. Does anyone else's v11 run rough/mushy at low RPMs (1500-3000) when accelerating from a stop. Trying to decide if my map needs tweaking (or something else) or if it is just the way it is. All is fine if I raise the RPMs to 3K before I release clutch….but kinda feels abusive.

After reading through all the rear brake squeak/grunt/groan threads (a simple search for "groan" will get you about a dozen), I'm once again happy that I ran across this great forum. Before I read the threads, I just recently picked my 03 (really an 02) naked up for a few warranty items. While at the dealer I had them check out the rear groaning (mine is definitely not a squeak) noise as I was worried that it may be more severe such as a bearing. Mine groans just about every revolution of the wheel forward or reverse. Can easily hear it as I coast up to a stoplight. When I picked the bike up, dealer said they checked the rotor and it was not warped and gave the bike back to me saying that "they (v11s) all do it." Well, I haven't had my v11 for that long...but long enough to realize that they all do "it" usually just means its one of those things that MG refuses to recall and doesn’t mean that I should ignore this unknown sound of friction. So, now that I realize that this problem could be any of the following: 1. OEM pads need a good occasional scrubbing with cleaner and aftermarket pads aren't as prone to groan (heh heh). - No way to warranty this, I'll clean on my own and see how it goes. While the caliper is off I'll give the wheel a spin and see if the noise still exists (ie...bad bearing) 2. Need to bleed the rear brake (according to Rich Maud). - Again...probably on me to do. 3. Lucky me, my hub spacer is 1MM too short (needs to be 113.12MM) and causing the wheel to not turn completely straight/true and hitting the break pad on every turn....or the smaller spacer allows for swing arm to be to tightened to snug. - Would rather have the dealer do this, but not sure how I can convince them that something is actually wrong. It would be my first time, but I could dig the manual out and try to add a 1MM myself...if that works maybe replace with the new/longer spacer (Assume this is a Guzzi part number?). 4. I have a bearing that is going bad. - Again, same dealer issue...might be on me to do myself...not looking forward to it. If I do myself I will check to see if they turn smoothly and quietly. Are the replacement bearings generically available at auto parts stores or do I need to order from MG? Any recommendations or insights? The noise is bugging the hell out of me and don't want to even think of what it is doing to the rear pads. It would be great if someone would put a FAQ together on this. From the posts starting in 2002, sounds like it is common problem. Thanks!

I don't believe that this is the down slope to the HD of the 1980's, but more a leveling out of their market share due to the hype from the plethora of custom and chopper shops (of which, about half have some sort of free public relations on Discovery and TLC). I haven't seen a recent customer base breakout of HD's buyers, but have to imagine that it is a younger audience than that of baby boomers of the past 10 year.

The frame stamp can also help you...the tag is on the neck of the frame under triple tree on the left side. You may have to move aside some wiring to see it.

Al, I know your bike has been out of commission for while.... but any new info on this new design? Did you get a prototype?

Al, in some of the forums it has been discussed that putting aftermarket higher compressions pistons in could be harmful to the life of the engine, fuel economy, etc. I really wish we could find out what ompression the 03+ bikes actually have. If confirmed, one could go with OEM 03+ pistons instead of aftermarket. I have my lovely case swap coming up and trying to decide if I wish to go down that path (along with some new valves) while its cracked open. This is the first I've heard about different oil flow on the 03+, was there a change in the cylinder design? cheers

Nogbad, here is the steering damper replacement thread. I put on the cafe sport's Ohlins (MG part #) and am very pleased with it. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=2784

now that we're on the petcock subject. my doesn't petcock seal well when I shut it off to remove the tank. With the tank on a flat surface, the petcock will continue to drip fuel. is this common or does mine just need to be repaired/replaced? I don't use pliers to close it, just my fingers....though seem to turn it as far as it will go.

Well...seeing as the MG Ti's were a long lost promise (and pricy) and Leo V said "no more guzzi"....I found myself impatient and frustrated. Then I saw that there were a few dealers with Giannelli's Ti's for $550-$585...and I took the plunge. FYI - MotoInternational told me they got the last of US distributors' Gianellis for v11...at least for now. I first tried to install them with the v11 OEM brackets but ran into the same minor spacing problem as "rudi." http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=725&hl= Until I go to the hardware store and find the spacers, I used the Giannelli brackets (sin foot pegs and kinda ugly). They work well, but still don't line up the cans "perfectly" if you look from the rear of the bike....but non anal person may not care. Pipes sound great, maybe even a bit on the loud side (with Stucchi) when you really get on the throttle. One downside, the cans have a Giannelli tag riveted on the sides. It's not too obnoxious, but I'm not a big fan of them. A future project may be to drill the small rivets out, remove tag, and replace with new rivets. That all being said, I got a great set of pipes AND a PCIII for less than a set of most other Ti's. success...for now.

True statement. I went to Orange County Motorsports yesterday and looked at it. It's back in the Service dept so people don't mess with it. Very sweet bike. They turned the guages on while I was there....let's just say it's a little more advanced than my Veglia's.

Randy, I can't say that I've ridden my v11 in a down pour since I sliced and diced an extra lid....but I wouldn't really worry about it. The rain would have to be tremendous and blowing sideways under the tank to do much (in which case I would find an overpass to hide under). I have one of the "other v-twins" with an air induction that is completely exposed to the elements, I haven't had any problems in moderate rain....though the K&N needs to be recharged afterwards.

or for few more precious inches when squeezing/lane-splitting through dead-stop California traffic.

my box must have 4ft concrete walls...cause I got nothing. would love to see a picture, even if it is hard to see.

After numerous phone calls, here's the deal on the Cafe's Ohlins damper: It is not a stock Ohlins part number, I spoke to Ohlins USA and they could not come up with anything. Turns out that Ohlins makes them special for Guzzi and Aprilla. You can try to use a universal Ohlins (SD110, etc), but without the special L bracket, it is very close (and hits if you’re not careful) to the oil cooler. The L bracket allows it to be mounted with the 2 reservoir stacks on top of each other (like the Cafe's) instead of side-by-side, parallel to the groud, with the universal mount. The Guzzi Cafe Sport part number is 0153-0290 (0153-0291 is the Bitubo). Price after MG and dealer markups = a whopping $443 MSRP. If you're interested, the MG USA warehouse has them in stock.

Acciaio is Steel. Though I don't see anything but supertwins with the steel exhaust on galassetti's web gallery. From the pictures, it "looks" as though you have to lose the rear hugger with their setup. Also not sure how you keep from melting your stock turn signals (signals? i don't need no stinkin signals!). cool concept though, and with their brackets, you keep a nice height for passenger pegs.

Yes, he sold them....I talk to him about a week ago.

see pics on page 1 Does Raceco produce their own exhaust or just distribute a different brand? The Raceco exhausts look very similar to Leo's (ie..I like them). And on their website, the v11 big bore x-over looks like a Stucchi. The Galassetti's have a sweet design, but I don't care for the carbon look...wonder if that style comes in Ti or SS and works with a Stucchi?