richard100t

I've been investigating the paranormal in order to solv this mystery & I've stumbled upon "incontrovertible" evidence of life after death. This video is not for the faint of heart! If you cannot accept that there is an afterlife please do not view this clip as it may disturb your worldview!

Well I dont think so. If it does its too small to notice. The main thing that I did notice was the rattling that the single plate does in nuetral was very noticeably reduced with the valves set tighter. As soon as I went back to world spec it went back to the normal rattle that I was used to.

Hahaha if I could explain it I would. I really dont disagree with you. I'm just saying that is what happened. It doesnt make any sense to me either. Is there an Italian Art Bell with a show called Italy after dark? That may be the place to call

Everything you say is true in your post. I never changed the idle speed though. Its right at about 1150rpm, same as always. I'm still saying that something changed when I reset the valves that affects the way the bike shifts. I believe that whatever smoothed out the chatter with the tighter valve settings caused it to have the shifting problems.

I didnt think there was any correlation either, thats why I resisted going back to world spec. Well that & I love the better performance. Another thing that I very clearly noticed was that the clutch didnt rattle nearly as much in nuetral with the tighter valves. When I reset to world spec the rattle came back as loud as ever. I know you probably think I'm hearing the valves but I know the difference. Btw I do have the single plate setup if that makes a difference.

Well I guess the problem seems to be solved. I had set the valves about two weeks ago & I went a little tighter than usual just to see if there was much difference. I liked the way the motor ran, but thats when the lousy shifting started. So today I figured what the hell, & I went back to world specs & went for a ride. Wouldnt you know it the daemn thing shifts as smoothly as it ever used to. There must be a connection but I'll be damned if I know how the two things can affect each other. I'm still going to rebuild the m/c now that I've had it apart, the piston seal doesnt look as fresh now. Has anyone else notice the shifting gets harder if you set the valves tighter? Btw the first time I went from world spec of .10 & .15 to .075 & .125 & thats where the shifting got tougher. Today I went back to the .10 & .15 & the shifting went back to normal...Coincidence?

Well I'm done for the evening, but heres my impressions. I think the master cylinder needs rebuilt. A) I could hear the clutch dragging with the bike off & in 1st gear with the lever pulled in rolling it back & forth I had to adust the set screw all the way near the end before it would stop dragging at all. Once I did that the bike shifts pretty close to normal now as far as I can tell. The lever adjustment has to be set just right or the clutch will also drag, even with the set screw all the way in. one of the reasons that leads me to believe it may be the m/c is that I had a very slow speed drop a few years ago that scuffed the end of the lever so it may have damaged the m/c from that. Are there any possible things between the m/c & the bleeder that may be binding or something that could cause this symptom or exacerbate it? c) I'm going to lube those splines this weekend per Gregs advice to see if there is any improvement. Well again I'd like to thank everyone for their patience & advice. This forum is a godsend for people with little experience working on bikes.

Alright I have achieved success with bleeding the line. The bike rides again. One thing that I took note of was the set screw in the lever that actuates the piston. I removed the retaining wire & turned it in, probably too much. Well now I'm going to fine tune that set screw & see if that solves my original problem. Many thanks go to Greg Field & Ratchet. Greg, you were right about the m/c...I took it back apart & reassembled it again today. Ratchet, you were right as well... Once I had the m/c assembled correctly it was really very easy to bleed the line. Just a few pumps & presto. Ok I'll keep you updated as to wether or not it was a m/c adjustment problem or a clutch problem.

Well I'll have to find a different place to get it because they are out of stock at that site. As long as I have the part # & description I can google a source or just call my dealer to get one. I'm still holding out hope that I can get it running by this weekend. The weather will be great here for a change.

I think this is the right rebuild kit from the link that you provided Ratchet. It sure does look like the parts that I just held in my brake fluid covered fingers lol. http://www.yoyodyneti.com/ProductInfo.aspx...tid=110.4362.52

I'm not experienced with master cylinders or bleeding lines, so enlighten me a little here please. When I pull the lever & open the bleeder, fluid does come out. At a few times when I was getting the pressure to build it was really squirting out. Does this mean that my master cylinder is still good, or could it be that its going bad because I cant get the pressure to stay up? I'm thinking that this is a problem of inexperience on my part. Before I gave up for the evening I took the bleeder off & put my finger over the hole while I pumped the lever & pressure does build at my finger although not at the lever.

Ok I've gotten the thing all back together & have been bleeding the line. I almost had it once! There was good pressure at the lever but the bike wouldnt roll in gear with the lever pulled in yet so I gave it a few more tries & somehow lost the pressure. Then I got it building back up again! Alas then I lost it again! lol However I'm in pretty good spirits because I know that it will work & I will get it right eventually.

Ok Greg if Jaap hands out bonus points for good advice you should get a point here I didnt know there was a washer in there but since your post I removed the master from the bike & fished it out of there. Its a brass colored flat washer that you're talking about right? Anyway it was bent up so I gave it a few light taps with a hammer to re flatten in. I put it on the end of the piston, put the piston back in the cylinder & it kind of snapped right in place. I'm pretty certain this was the cause of that pfft noise while I was trying to bleed the line. Well I'm headed back out to the garage to put it all back together Wish me luck!

Yeah the one thing that I seem to have no talent with is bleeding brake lines. I'll just have to get some help on this one. I'll keep everyone updated on what the original problem was with my clutch or the master cylinder or who knows. Unfortunately it may be a few days before I get the line bled.

Now I'm trying to bleed the clutch. When I pull the lever in I hear pfft sound that is coming from around the master cylinder area. is a leak likely or is this sound normal?

Ok now I have the plastic spacer back in its proper place. Unfortunately the metal cylinder that I had slid it in had come out while I was trying to coax the spacer out. Now as many of you know I have air in my clutch line

I do have a spare single plate kit. The friction plate is about a 1/4 inch thick

I'll definitely do that as preventive maintenance. I'm hoping that little plastic thing was just out of alignment somehow & all is now well. The clutch lever works very differently now. Before the clutch wouldnt engage until the lever was pulled all the way in. Now it engages completely at about halfway in. I really havent done more than the 3 times around the block because of the rain & cold. However I do have my fingers crossed. I dont ride the clutch hard, no burnouts or anything & the bike just turned 31k miles so it shouldnt be worn out yet. I will keep you updated when I can get it out for a real ride. If someone can take a peek at their lever assembly & let me know for sure where that little plastic thing belongs I'd appreciate it.

If the plastc thing is the actuator for the clutch switch did I put it in the right place? This may sound like a silly question but is there any relatively easy way of having a look at the clutch to check for wear?

Oh btw I do still have the clutch kit. I'm asking $450 but make me an offer if you really need it That is if I dont need it, but I'm thinking I may have cured the problem

Ok today I took the clutch lever off & took the steel pin out of the plunger type thing. Next I sprayed some wd40 in there just to clean out any gunk. Next thing I notice a small round black piece of plastic is lying on the floor & I dont know where it came from! I didnt think it came from behind the steel pin that was in the rubber plunger, but I thought what the hell. I put the plastic spacer thing in the rubber plunger thing, then put the steel pin back in & put the lever back on. Now I dont have to pull the lever all the way in to get the clutch to stop rattling & change gears. It seems to work a whole lot better & doesnt stick in first gear or roll forward with the clutch pulled in anymore. I have only went around the block 3 times because its raining & I wanted to consult with the experts in here about what I've done. Did I do the right thing here? It seems to me like the clutch is fine but was out of adjustment at the lever.

When I'm riding my bike it usually goes through the gears smoothly, no problems. Sometimes when I pull to a stop its hard to get it into or out of first to nuetral. If I sit at the light with the clutch lever pulled in the bike will want to slightly roll forward. I've been adjusting the knob thing on the lever & it will work fine again for a little while & then it will do the same thing again. It will go from smooth clutch action to the grabby notchy feeling, back to smooth again for no noticeable reason. Is this a clutch problem or a problem with the lever or cables needing lubed? If its the cable needing lubed, is wd40 ok? TIA

If you can smell gas while the engine is running then something is definitely wrong somewhere. Fortunately its probably something simple. Check all the fuel lines to make sure they are tight & leak free. Does your bike run well? Does it cough or backfire a lot? Another thing to check are the rubber intake sleeves that attach to the throttle bodies. Your bike is almost ten years old, probably with the factory sleeves. If they are leaking that wont do your bike any good either. Since your bike has the ti cans on it with the special ecu make sure its setup for whatever type of air filter you have as well. That is very important too.

I've seen a few of them end up like that now. There was one that came up on ebay in that condition here in Ohio a year or two ago.

A) I did make sure the driveshaft was aligned I did grease the needle roller & the inside portion of the bevel It didnt have redline on the left hand side or the nut side, only the bevel side. It had redline all over the spindle or axle if you like. It was also running down the side of the box as well. My guess is that my seal was probably really gone bad to the point that the redline was just going everywhere. I've put a good 50 miles on the bike since the new seal & no leakage yet I also cleaned the box breather & I know it works because after my test riding there was a small amount of redline fluid that came out of it. I think the point that I wanted to make is that if your box is leaking, try just replacing the cheap easy to get to seal first. The inner seal that Pete is speaking of is a very expensive one to replace labor wise.