richard100t

I have a Rosso Mandello as well. I personally dont think thats a good bike for a sidecar but hey, its a free country lol. When you look at it I dont think it would take much to bing it back to stock. It just has the forks removed & something connecting the car to the bike.

A new production facility is a good thing. The question that remains is whether or not the most recent owners of the company will build a bike that we will want to buy. People are passionate about their motorcycles, but as a factory worker myself I can tell you that its a whole lot of different parts brought together in a building. The better the facility is designed for the job, the better the product will be. If the manufacturing were being outsourced to a third world country for cheap, near slave labor that would be one thing. But to still build the bikes in Italy with Italian engineers & designers....I will reserve judgement until after the new products hit the street. Theres an old Billy Joel song with a line in it that goes " the good old days werent always good & tomorrow aint as bad as it seems". The first person to guess the name of the song gets a music point

I trust my bike & I would judge the reliablility is as good or better than any. The only thing is you have to fiddle with the tb's (at least on mine) maybe more than others. Maybe you could claim that it requires more frequent maintenance than more modern bikes. However I dont need to take my bike to a shop & pay $1000 every 7k miles. If thats what reliability costs I'm not so sure its worth it.My bike is closing in on 30k miles & it runs as good or better now than it ever has. I wouldnt be surprised if someone in here gets 200k miles out of one before having to do serious engine repair to it. I think getting 100k miles without an overhaul should be a piece of cake. Forums like this are a great tool for sharing information on how to fix problems. Just remember that most of us ride our bikes all the time without any serious issues & of course we dont talk about that. If you go to a bmw forum I'm positive that they bitch as much or more about their bikes too. My friend & fellow forum member has a newer bmw boxer touring bike that shit the bed on him on a trip. He had to rent a truck to tow it back to Ohio. If you talk to enough people, someone will always have a horror story about any brand of motorized conveyance.

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here it is

It was far more than a rumor. I have a Moto Guzzi brochure with the smaller displacement mgs in it. They were going to produce the smaller one for street use but apparantly decided not to. Its really a shame because it was a hot looking bike.

Well the symptoms of popping & stalling at idle are usually caused from the tb's being out of balance. The tps has to be set right as well. Everyone rides their bikes in different climates & has all different mileages, & riding styles. I dont know if these are problems with the throttle body equipment itself, but I will continue to monitor this thread with interest.

When I pump grease into mine the shafts will start to separate or expand if you will. Thats when I know that it has enough grease in it. You can put quite a bit in there but it will end up all over the rim & tire when you go for a ride.

Did you pump grease into the front and rear zerks while the shaft was apart? If you did then I would say that it probably has too much grease in there. I know that when I pump grease into the rear zerk the shaft will expand & thats when I know that its full enough. It could be that you just need a little more practice getting the rear wheel back on there too. Its very hard to tell without getting a look at it.

Yes..I forgot to add the racing bit Sorry about that.

I just seen an ad for new wheels from a company named Durrani. They look really cool for about $1300. Of course they dont stock rims for our bikes but the website says to call them about making wheels that they dont stock. The website is www.durrani.com

If you have a reputable Guzzi dealer in the area I would take it there to be hooked up to the computer. Sometimes its better to just fork over a little money up frony to find out whats causing the problem than to try adjusting everything sort of blindly. That Guzzi computer is a pretty cool thing, my dealer has one & he just hooks it to the ecu & it tells you just about everything.

While you're at it, that engine could use some spiffy fuzzy black paint to match the wheels

You need to paint the wheels & the starter cover black. Otherwise it looks great!

Another forum member I know just installed a Hagon on his 02 v11 & it looks like a good one. The price on that was around $500 I think, but it didnt have the remote adjusters.

It is a special order battery. I had two options. One was $140 & the other was $60. I got the $60 one & it works fine. The oem battery in my bike still started my bike just fine even though it was bad. My advice is to have your battery hooked up to the machine at an auto parts store to check it. I would think that all of the older v11 motorcycle oem batteries have to be either bad or very close to going bad by now. P.S. the $60 battery was one that you have to add the electrolyte to it. So if you dont like that type then spend the extra money for the maintenance free one.

Where is this motorcycle that you speak of?

Well Tracey, mine did the same thing until I put in that new battery. It doesnt do it anymore. Take your battery to Autozone to have it tested. I'm sure its fine to check all the other stuff to but I would do the easy thing first.

Make sure the front end is raised up so that you dont have a fork oil bath. Once you get the load off the forks loosen both caps together until they are almost off, then they should spin off by hand. If you try to take a cap off while the bike is not jacked up you could get very seriously injured. I think the clicking sound was the rod spinning around in the fork because there was too much pressure on the spring.

Yes Henry you dont need to raise it a whole lot higher with the fender in, but it does make it easier. The main thing I've found is to find the sweet spot where the axle is "floating" in the rear drive to pull it out. After that I just lift it a little higher & roll the wheel backwards. P.S. If you dont completely remove the axle from the rear drive you wont have to support the rear drive while the wheel is out. I tie the torque rod up to the swingarm with twine anyway as a precaution.

Well if you still have the original rear fender you probably need to go high enough to get around that. If you have an eliminator kit & no rear mudgard like me, you just loosen the axle nut while its on the ground, disconnect the rear brake caliper. Then lift it just enough to take pressure off the rear axle to pull it out. The tire should just roll out after that. Pay attention to the spacer inside the rear drive as that has to go back in when you're done.

I have a Rosso Mandello & I would tell you to get the Ballabio if you like to ride more than 100 mils at a time. The Rosso is a pretty bike, but it aint comfortable over a long ride. Under 100 miles a trip & the Rosso is a great bike.

Joe is a great guy. I believe he may still have a brand new green/red frame v11 for sale as well. Maybe a Quota too but I'm not sure.

Yes I spoke with Jason recently & he said that he has them coming in soon. He already has the Griso 8V

You can remove the hose & the brass nipple fittings. Then just cap the holes with a couple bolts with some washers for spacers. Remember to save the brass (bronze?) fittings for when you need to balance the throttle bodies.