richard100t

Sorry Ben, the Rosso Mandello came with the regular chinpad. You my be thinking of the Scura Are you kidding about my exclusive cf instrument holder? My bike is so light the front end nearly floats because of that thing! Whatever the cost for that thing, its well worth it! I would like that cf rear seat cover & the cf tailpiece with a set of cf rims but I havent won the lottery yet. I sometimes wonder just how much weight I could shed off the bike if I put all the cf gear on it with a quat d exhaust. I'm thinking somewhere between 35 & 50lbs, but it would lighten my checking account to the tune of about $100 per each pound

This may seem like a long shot but have you looked at the rubber throttle body intake sleeve? It could have slipped off causing the problem you describe. If its not that I'll have to think on it some more When you say that you can smell fuel strongly it sounds like the sleeve jumped off & the fuel could be not getting into the head..

I have a Rosso Mandello as well. Ratchethack is correct as in we dont know what you weigh or your riding style, or just what type of ride you like. Just adjusting the compression & rebound clickers will not likely help you until you get the preload setting right. That is where the links Ratchet provided will be very helpful. Generally speaking when you figure out how much sag you would like theres a blue nut under each cap labeled c and r. Tightening down these nuts will give you more preload & a softer ride. Loosening them up will give you a stiffer front end. Think of the clickers on top as fine tuning adjustments for once you get your preload set right. You also MUST get the rear suspension set to match the front or you'll be frustrated with no success. Your bike has a lot of components that are very adjustable, from the clip ons to the gear shift levers to the brake levers & so on. Once you get it done the way you like it, of course it will be worth the effort. Sometimes its well worth it to pay an experienced wrench to either do it for you or help you to learn how.

Hmm....I always take the wheel off so that its easier to get the fitting on the zerk. Maybe I should take the wheel off, attach the fitting, put the wheel back on, pump it full of grease, & then remove the fitting using your wiggle method?

I'll throw my two cents in as well I use a flex hose & I ground the grease fitting down until I could slide it on the zerk. Getting it back off the zerk once you have pumped it full of grease is another whole bunch of fun~!

Well as long as you arent hurt thats the main thing. All of the parts you listed can be replaced pretty easily, except that upper sump (may) take a little longer. A professional paint shop will be able to match the bikini fairing if you cant get a factory replacement.

Didnt a forum member run off a batch of shims to cure this problem? I'm sure that I remember they were well liked by those that bought them. Since my bike doesnt have the middle pipe I never needed them, but I'm sure there are more than a few here that can add the right information on them.

heavy shockproof

You didnt turn the white plastic knob to adjust the idle did you?

Once your bike is tuned correctly it should never cough or backfire. If, when you get it back it still has the occasional cough or sputter, that only means that they got it close. It should idle smoothly & when you crack the throttle wfo in first gear the front wheel should get very "light" when you shift into second. There should also be no pinging or other chatter. Once you get the bike perfectly tuned you will know why we really love riding them. One other thing, it should get better than 40mpg if you ride it in a "normal" non racing manner.

I put the pod filters on almost as soon as I bought the bike so I cant really tell you about the noise difference. I also wear a helmet so that filters a lot of it too. Besides my Rosso Mandello has the single plate clutch & its a noisy bastard anyway.

I did it to my Rosso Mandello. You will have to have it retuned because it will run too lean. Just zip tie the sensor out of the way. I love the look of the bike without the airbox, plus its much easier to work on it & clean it.

I was the member that chimed in about offering my Rosso Mandello to sell if someone just brought me the money in a brown paper bag. I would say that a nearly new Corsa could be worth 8 grand. If you think about the fact that when it was new...only 5k miles ago the msrp was around $15,000. If I were going to buy another v11 it would definitely be one with the ohlins. The bike is definitely worth no less than $7k if its in very good condition. New brake pads are cheap, and I doubt if theres anything wrong with the steering damper. Even if you did need a new damper its not that much money. I guess that if you want a good clean late model rare v11 you have to pay a little extra. If you want the same experience for less money get a red frame 00' model for under $5k.

I have full coverage on mine with Progressive for about $180 a year. I'm 39 with a clean record. Tell them to check more closely at what your bike really is. I had a similar problem when I first tried to insure mine.

You may have forgotten to plug the sensor back in when you put in the tipover valve.

My bike had the same flickering problem. It started up just fine except in below 40 degree weather. I began to think that it had to be near the end of its life...it was eight years old after all. So I took it to AutoZone to have it tested & sure enough it was bad. Ever since then I have no flickering light. Sometimes you should check the really easy things first.

Take your battery out of the bike. Then take the battery to a parts shop to have it tested.

You probably remember me talking about my Shoei Multitec Ben. Its the new Shoei flip up.

I tried on a Caberg at the cycle world bike show in January. I didnt like the way it fit my head, but it sure had a lot of cool stuff like the inner shade. I"m not saying the Caberg isnt a good helmet...I didnt care for the Arai either, & those are generally thought of as a good helmet. After a year of ownership my Shoei Multitec still works well for me. Fwiw $100 is a hell of a good deal for the top shelf Caberg, I think the retail was $300 at the bike show.

After seeing the new posts here I got to thinking about how to make the hyperpro springs work for me. I took out some preload on the rear shock which is what I should have done all along. Now I can say that the sag up front is just fine & the bike rides very smoothly over bumps. I would say that the hyperpro springs offer a better ride than the stock ones once you get them set right.

With the stock spacer size of about 2 7/8" I would say you may have a point about weight....maybe. With the hyperpro springs taking up most of the that length & the new spacers being roughly 1 1/2" I wouldnt worry about the weight. As for the thickness I havent gone & actually looked into using steel but maybe I will later today just for kicks.

What is the problem with going to the hardware store & buying a piece of steel pipe? They sell it at Home Depot, just get a foot or two & saw it to the desired length.

The Rosso Mandello came with a carbon fiber Scura type windscreen from the factory. The Rosso was a short frame bike just like the green ones. You're probably thinking of the 2002 Lemans with the RM color fairing up front, but with a greyish colored tank. IMO that is the best looking color combo for the Lemans.

It sounds like you do have more than one single problem going on here. Things to check on your bike are the rubber throttle body intake sleeves for dry rot. Another is the tps may be out of whack, check that. Balance the throttle bodies, thats a symptom of what you describe as well. I'll leave the electrical gremlins to the experts! lol

I have a Rosso Mandello too & that is just what its supposed to sound like. Like Pete said, set your idle at about 1200 & the sound is a little less maybe. Its a loud bike that sounds like a coffee can full of nuts & bolts in a paint mixer at idle you either learn to like it or you'll be selling it because theres nothing you can do to "fix" it.