richard100t

Just remember everyone!!! I will sell you my very reliable Rosso Mandello which has had very little troubles for ONLY $5500!!! If you really want it just pm me & come running with a brown paper bag full of $20's

When I bought my bike the tdc marks were very easy to see. Over time the markings have faded & now I need a flashlight to really see them. I've been thinking about remarking them, but I've never gotten around to it. Ratchet is right as well, you just have to be close anyway.

Oh I believe your bike is worth every penny of $5500 Ben. The only thing you need is time & someone will buy it. As for me, I'm not that crazy about selling mine but if someone wants it thats my price too.

I would "entertain" an offer of $5500 for my real #74 Rosso Mandello! 25k miles, new tires & all new fluids. I'll be waiting patiently for the offers to come rolling in!

The only thing I would add is that you can take the exhaust cans off first just to get them out of the way. Second thing would be to tie the torque rod to the swingarm to support the shaft & the bevel. Third is to remove the caliper from the disk, spray some cleaner in the caliper while you're at it (but thats another discussion!). Fourth if you still have the factory tool bag theres a large box wrench in there that fits the nut on the left side of the wheel. Get the nut loose before you jack the bike up. Fifth, be mindful of the spacers & where each one goes. Once the rear is off the floor just slide the axle out level with the rear drive enough that it clears the rim. Theres also the nasty cush drive subject to deal with while the rear wheel is off, but I'll let other forum members discuss that one!

I had the same thing happen to my bike. Only one side came out on mine though. Its a pita to run a new bolt up in there as its a very tight fit in there.

If you guys keep winning those races Guzzi may have to take notice & build the mgs as a production model! Personally I would love to see the mgs go up against bmw's new $30k boxer racer & see who has the better bike. I have an obviously biased opinion but I think the Guzz may get around the track just a little faster

If you weigh less than 170lbs I'd say you may need to use longer spacers for your preload in the forks. My bike started doing almost the very thing you describe. What I found was that the forks werent compressing over the bumps in the road. Basically it was too stiff & wouldnt handle properly. Buy some pvc tubing & cut spacers...I'd say to start with one half inch longer than stock. Put them in, run the blue nut all the way down & go for a test run.

I dont know why they would have used such a thing on there. The part came from the factory with no sealant at all. That kind of work is probably why they are out of business now. I used some type of silicone based form a gasket on mine just for peace of mind, but allegedly you dont need anything. As for cracking the bondo thats in there now I would follow the others advice. Knock it in a symmetrical pattern like removing bolts from a wheel. Once it gets a crack in the seal it will pop off.

If you're going to buy one I would recomend that you fly out to the dealer you intend to buy the bike from & ride it first. If you buy from Todd that would make a nice ride home from Houston on a new bike. If you want a really long ride home, buy it from Greg! lol I dont think it would cost very much more than having the bike shipped to you.

That Vintage is a sweet looking bike in the sunshine Ben. I took one for a short demo ride & I liked it more than the Norge. The Norge has more goodies on it but the Vintage seemed more comfortable. Of course you & I are waaaay far apart in size so ymmv.

Does anyone have a good suggestion for Mr Geriatric? I've seen a farkle or two that may work but I dont have the photos to post. Yours Truly, Heywood Jablohmi

The v11 is very well made as far as adjustability. Nearly everything on the bike can be moved around to suit your tastes. You need to remove the starter to access everything with the shifter linkage.. Keep making small adjustments then sit on the bike & work the shift lever with your foot until you're happy with it. I wasnt really happy with my shift lever either until I got it the way that I wanted it to be. Another hint for better shifting action is to replace the gear oil with Redline Heavy Shockproof gear oil. It really does make a difference.

Unfortunately you need to buy two quarts of the stuff. You will only use about a fourth of the second quart, however it will be there for the next fluid change.

I have seen the standard Griso in red, & it is a very good looking machine. It doesnt seem like we will get the 8v bikes here in the states for a while yet as they didnt have any at the CycleWorld International bike show. I did sit on a bmw k1200s & thats the bike I'd buy right now if I were in the market for a new bike.

I have the worst luck picking up nails on new back tires. The last two tires I have had got puntured when new. My buddy & forum member Tracey plugged the hole both times & I rode the bike the life of the tire both times with no problems.

On my 01 Rm the spacer goes on the top of the spring instead of the bottom. There is also a collar that sits atop the spacer & there is a blue nut that is used to adjust the preload. My fork caps also look a little different than yours on the inside, mine dont have that large nut on the inside. I also had a devil of a time trying to get enough preload but I found that the spring was just too long. Out of frustration I just put the stock springs back in the bike & used slightly longer spacers to get more preload. Now the bike rides a lot smoother than it ever did. If anyone has put the hyperpro springs in an 01 model I'd like to hear how you did it. Like I said, getting them in is easy, getting enough preload for my 180lb riding weight is not easy.

Yes check your valves & it sounds like your throttle bodies need adjusted.

I would ask the seller to wrap the item in gift wrapping! That may help a little

I dealt with Paolo as well with the same good results.

I know a guy here in Ohio that I believe still has a red frame green v11 thats brand new never sold. He also has a brand new never titled Quota as well. I believe he still wants full msrp! Does anyone think buying a v11 & letting it sit as new would be a good investment in 20 years? I wont bother to ask the same question of the Quota!

This really is a fascinating subject for me. I greased the pucks last year & there was an actual "very slight" improvement in the ride. Now I must admit that I havent gone to the trouble to drill the pucks out, mostly because I'd want a spare set in case I wasnt happy with the results of the drilling. The procedure is so simple & relatively easy that I'm finding it hard to believe how many posts we can get out of the subject between this thread & the old thread. Could it be that these newfangled urethane pucks are going to turn my v11 into an Italian Goldwing! Just how much more room is there for improvement on this particular part of the motorcycle anyway? I have to be completely honest here & say that I have never, ever been riding my bike & thought "Gee those rubber pucks could use a little more grease". Arent we really just talking about a (maybe) yearly routine maintenance procedure such as greasing that damn front u joint?

One trick I've found for supporting the bevel box when removing the wheel is some twine. Just tie the torque rod tightly to the swingarm before you take the wheel off. Another thing people have had trouble with is the bearings in the rear wheels as well. It wouldnt hurt to give them a shot of grease every year as well, front & back.

Welcome to the Rosso Mandello owners club! I love mine & I'm sure you'll love yours once you get to ride it. Its a real head turner.

I agree with you on the red Greg. My two cents is you shouldnt use any silver at all & just put the green stripes in the taped areas.