Murray

Was going to suggest one of Pauls single seat tail units problem solved!

12.8 volts is a bit low if the bike is running the listing for the 1100 sport is 14.5 volts @5000rpm +-0.2 . Has the bike sat for a period of time the fuel pumps tend to foul up in this case. The other thing it could be is a coil breaking down under load/heat.

It would be worth finding a suspension specialist for one of the road race teams and get them to help you out. There will be a few $$$ involved but it is always worth it IMO.

Been talking to him over the net helpful to have someone to exchange tuning tips with.

My 1100 sport (same motor older model) with 120odd 000kms uses negligible amounts between 5000kms services so yes this is normal.

They are out in the country that obviously their picnic lunch

Righto cheers my bike doesn't get shut down due to winter you would probally argue we don't really get winter here. I am planning a major birthday soonish though.

Reading all this stuff is a bit of a concern my 1100 sport has 120 000kms on it and hasn't been seriously looked at. Raz what made you think it was worn and needed work?

And yet its Guzzi's best selling model, The Bellagio is a nice bike but I'm not sure I could ever accuse it of been light.

Holy thread revival batman! Hi Jim haven't seen you here for a while. About 28 Celsius with chance of shower or two can't wait till it actually starts to warm up. Where I work is 37 Celsius with afternoon thunderstorms.

Relays tend to affect high powered circuits, there were a batch of V11's that did have a crap bunch of relays but now it has become the defuat suggestion for any electrical problem, Whilst I don't think that related to your problem gving the pins and sockets a clean will do it no harm. Your problem sounds more like a dodgy common earth for the dash or something similar. Here is a very good site with legiable wiring diagrams for various models (not to be confused with the ones in the back of the owners manual. http://www.guzzitech.com/guzzi007/sportissimo.html (99v11 sport) I'd also look at the main connector for the instrument pannel as well as where the instrument pannel bolts onto the frame as normally these are earther through the mounting bolts and with time and corrosion these can be less effective.

Same as Buells might be worth giving your local HD dealer a go.

Wonder what this boards reaction would of been if one of the bikes had a set of clip on's and a MGS-01 style half fairing on it, its not a big step from what's been displayed. It would be a new sporting oriented frame which is a good thing IMO and not pursuing the my chrome barge cruiser has bigger cc than yours touted by some corners of the media is a good thing IMO.

Guzzi in their infinite wisdom (I use this term loosely) decided that double valve springs were required they had the unfortunate habit of breaking valve stems if given a hard time ie extended running at big RPM. This may have been fixed on latter models I have no idea, the general fix is to replace the valve springs with the single valve springs off a GN250 but I'd be doing a bit more research into it before commiting.

Too many extra attachments. Have the valve springs been modifyed yet?

Get your battery load tested the local auto electrician/battery retailer usually do this for free. If that checks out you most likely have a electrical current transmission problem. Nothing on your bike uses as much current (in fairly short bursts) as the starter normally 90amps plus on the average bike. So basically the starter will give troubles before anything else electrical. So the obvious stuff how are you battery terminals free of corrosion clean and tight? Before going any further its worth dripping the earth lead off the battery (saves arc welding antics). Check where the earth lead bolts to the frame free of corrosion clean and tight? Also check the positive lead where it connects to the starter motor again free of corrosion clean and tight. Might be worth carefully splitting the switch block and giving the contacts a clean with a contact cleaning product. There are also two wires which are part of the clutch cutout switch which are prone to damage (search on here its well covered) near the headstem. This may also be worth pursuing, if you know your way around them a DC current clamp is probably helpful in diagnosing these type of faults.

Starting to get cold there eh? only 25 today Celsius

Despite works best efforts I am making the long treck (3000+kms) to Philip Island with my bike to watch the motor GP and do a track day afterwards. I put it in the show and shine as I figured it was secure parking for three days more than anything but it turns out there is a online componet to the voting and the field doesn't look that big, so if you go here http://www.motogp.com.au/default.aspx?s=european_motorcycles and vote for the corsa if you wish to vote for the V50 I have no problem with that it would be a laugh if it did well providing we keep the machines from bolonga at bay. Cheers

I suggest you check/get checked you steering head bearings and or wheel bearings, but thats exactly what the 1100 sport steering head bearing do when they are developing a notch (I don't have it run it either).

If you look up for a flexiable drive place that will be able to make you one just provide the old one as a sample probally cheaper than the guzzi jobbie too. Failing that these guys make their own http://www.thunderbikes.com.au/ the shipping will be more than the cable though.

I would expect the relay to cause several other issues than just a instrument light. Radical thought for the day but its most likely the globe in the instrument. Might be worth cheching the connections tot he headlight and its grounding path while you are at it.

Sounds like the throttle cable has a bit too much slack in it, simple adjustment makes a big difference.

Not something that needs servicing as often, i've had the one on the 1100 sport serviced a couple years ago it was 9 years old at the time with 90 000kms. To mysurprise there was still gas in it and the only thing the guy could pick was the oil/fluid was pretty dirty (wasn't cheap either) He said they did the dirt ones about every two years but didn't really have a number for road bikes. TBH didn't make much of a difference what did make a differnce was replacing he swingarm bearings so I think they need looking at more often than the shock now. Won't do it any harm but unless you are unhappy with its performance there is no real serivce interval. You could try looking up the manufacture and see what they recommend sachs boge / WP / Ohlins etc etc.