docc
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Posts posted by docc
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2 hours ago, Gmc28 said:
Doc, where’d you find a PC545 for $148?
West Coast Batteries, Corona, California, USA
https://odysseybatteries.com/odyssey/pc545.html
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AFAIK, OMRON discontinued production of the G8HE micro relay we used. Sure, you may find them used or NOS.
Currently, the Picker Components PC782-1C-12S-R-X is the best we have found with the highest NC contact rating for the #1/start position ( @igor, the first/front relay is the only position requiring the 5-pin/ Form 1C, yet best practice is to use the same 5-pin/ Form 1C in all positions so they can be swapped around as @gstallons noted).
This CIT is a close second and certainly up to our needs:
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9 hours ago, OtisV11 said:
Your dead right Kiwi Roy,that ECU is on the wrong way,the plug should be underneath.First time i have ever seen the plug on top.The seat base must surely be putting pressure on those wires.
@OtisV11, early Sports had the ECU connector on top. Like all V11, they benefit from the "battery basket drop" to aid underseat clearance.
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Pop quiz!
A) a meticulous would of course regularly check the wear on the tyres
B ) correct the calibration of the speedo as needed.
C) both A and B
D) Or maybe just consider the idea
E) and have a beer instead.
F) both D and E
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Do NOT mess with what the Norwegians might think what tires could look like on a V11 . . .
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And changes as the tires wears?
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I was talking with other SpineRaiders about this Sport today over Mex&cerveza. We cannot wait to see this RedFrame at the SSR!
There shall be a toast!
Maybe a coupl-o'-three . . .
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On 1/26/2025 at 3:00 PM, Pressureangle said:
I don't see any cracks, nor any brace in the boxes...I have more than a couple months to find everything and ... read everything.
Any word on the resurrection of this Sport?
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Sadly, I must report the demise of my fifteen year old PC545.
This was the 3rd Hawker Odyssey in mySport and was moved to my CubCadet lawn tractor, swampee, eleven years ago in 2014 and lived the hard, neglected life of groundskeeping equipment.
Odyssey #4 *only* lasted seven years and suffered from combined regulator + stator failures on mySport.
So, my 3 year old (VERY healthy) #5 moves to swampee and mySport gets a fresh PC545 (current nomenclature: Odyssey ODS-AGM15L) to the tune of $147.99US.
Ten bucks a year ain't to shabby for powersports/ lawn equipment batteries!
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There is no better fuel tap than the Lucky Phil EZ-Glide mod . . .
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53 minutes ago, activpop said:
I can solder just fine, but the two wires are really close together and I only have about an 1/8" stub protruding. I'll have to put a small heat shield between them. After reading about these things, I see how they are problematic. Such an important part with pansy ass wiring.
Not sure when Moto Guzzi went back to the manual petcock on the V11. Perhaps during 2001, but certainly by 2002?
The point at which the last fuse slot went dormant . . .
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11 minutes ago, footgoose said:
can't tell if yours are the 'lane splitters' that I use on another bike. they have a quick pivot feature to easily bend out of the way when struck..
Mine are not the fold-able "Lane Splitters." That is a nice feature!
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Before the garage spaces were "subdivided", Guzzis still made friends . . .
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10 hours ago, Pressureangle said:
In!
I booked 3 garage spaces because, well, the neighborhood has been getting crowded the past couple years.Might have to "rope off" those spaces as there is no protocol, otherwise.
Josh and I have one garage space. Because our Sports are close friends and don't mind . . .
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In order to mount the CRG bar end mirrors to mySport while retaining the factory weights, I had the weights machined.
The machine shop charged me accordingly to work from the dimensioned machine drawing specified to the thousandth of an inch . . .
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Links and images to invite comment . . .
@OzMatt? @Lucky Phil? @pete roper?
https://avenue748fairings.com/
(I cannot find the "Daytona race seat" on the avenue748 website.
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edit: Okay, found the avenue748 Daytona seat fairing on eBay/AUS.
https://i.ebayimg.com/images/g/nv8AAOSweR1aBVuO/s-l960.webp
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Fair warning: have the barkeep pour you a double before perusing this topic link . . .
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The matter of registering vehicles as "antique" (25 years old here in Tennessee, USA) now applies to three of my vehicles (my two motorcycles and the 1999 ///M roadster). I was rather disappointed getting the antique plate for my 1990 Honda GB500 as the "tag" is a flat, uninspiring printed piece.
I tried to register an older "embossed"/ "stamped" antique tag I had for a 1975 motorcycle, but The State could not find it in their system. So, I mounted this tag as the displayed "millesime"/ vintage plate and attached the registered "antique" plate/tag under the seat. This practice might require some explaining in the event of a roadside "conversation."
A conundrum arises registering my 2000 Sport as "antique" this year.
It seems I already have a "millesime"/vintage 2000 stamped plate. It's the one that has been on the bike all along. There is a stack of renewal stickers representing something like $1350US in registration fees over these twenty-five years. I could mount the newly acquired "antique" tag under the seat and leave the original "vintage" tag in place, but it will just look >expired< likely leading to more of said "conversations" . . .
While the GB500 and, perhaps, the ///M roadster might look antique-enough, I wonder if the V11 Sport design is just too Disco Volante to be considered properly "antique" by the common constabulary . . .
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More progress, yet!
Look at a "Battery Basket Drop" . . .
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2 minutes ago, activpop said:
So @docc, the tube that is on the tank with the check valve on it looks like it goes to the tank vent. Those are on the right side. The left one that had nothing on it looks like it goes to the overflow inside the filler neck. There is no way that hose in the last pic goes to that nipple, way too short. But the smaller hose that is laying to the left of the fuel pump is the one that should be connected to the overflow nipple. It has the length, but no clamp, so maybe it fell off some time ago. It wasn't connected when I lifted the tank a bit to look what all was under there before attempting lift-off.
Funny thing is, that hose that was in my last pic still had the SS pinch clamp on it. Once they are clamped, they never come off. I'm still at a loss to where that one went.
I could have my "right and left" mixed up looking upward at your under-tank image. One is the tank vent and one is the overflow. Both could be combined to atmosphere with a single exit below the gearbox.
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I wonder if the pump on top of the frame arrangement allows the filter to be changed without a tank off?
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That pinch damage ain't gonna swell closed. Even without changing component placement, that hose just needs to be longer.
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7 minutes ago, activpop said:
At this point I'm going to replace gas lines. No reason to ignore that with everything off.
Here is a pic of another tube not landed that was under the air box. I assume this was evap stuff? I thought it could be airbox drain, but see landing point for it. The 8v airbox has drains that drop down close to ground, but they are plugged to prevent oil on the tire. This one daylights to the same spot, but no plug. It's not connected up top though.
Pretty sure that is your fuel filler overflow line that connects to the right side under-tank nipple and dribbles fuel overflow/ under-cap wetness out below the gearbox.
The valved tubing from the left side is the fuel tank venting. Those valves were a known fail point and many removed them, routing the vent below the gearbox or joining it with the overflow tube.
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Moving the pump to the top of the frame was, IMCO, a factory effort to address "vapor lock" reports.
At this juncture, I believe the pump is better mounted to the left side of the frame, groomed forward with the petcock-to-pump fuel line shielded and as short as possible to keep it away from the head fins.
With the fuel filter mounted top-side on the SpineFrame, the fuel line from the pump to the filter can be lengthened to mitigate that pinch.
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Best Relay
in How to...
Posted
Hi, @igor!
It is worth using this relay in all positions on all V11 SpineFrames, yet the starting circuit on your LeMans will likely benefit from the addition of a separate start relay for what our member @Kiwi_Roy calls "Startus Interuptus."
Here is @stewgnu's wiring diagram of that modification:
It is also notable that @stewgnu's starting issue was traced to the starter. itself:
And a Kiwi_Roy post with further explanation including advice to inspect, clean, and lubricate the ignition switch: