docc

The new "inner spacer" (the short one between the drive side wheel bearing and the reardrive carrier bearing) is ~0.002" shorter than my original. The outboard race for the needle cage (in the right side of the reardrive next to the swingarm) is ~0.001" longer than my original. I'm thinking these are within tolerance (?) and I'll install all the new parts I can.

My original (short) spacer has the two notches, but the new one does not. I suppose I can keep the collars and it will force me to get a proper bearing removal tool set.

Yessir. You can see the (new) 113mm spacer still has them and my original 112mm spacer does not. It is fiddly to slip the axle through with the spacer loose, but very difficult to drift the bearings out with the spacer locked to the center. The collars fit so loosely in the bore of the hub (3mm gap), I can't imagine they are needed. Perhaps they are an assembly expedient, only?

So, keep the centering collars? They are important, perhaps?

So, in the hopes of getting this right (this time), I have some things to report along with lingering concerns . . . For certain, the new spacer checks out (113mm), while the original is 112mm. It also has the centering collars, while mine were removed early-on to make the bearings easy to drift out. I've been advised to cease-and-desist the drifting and only use a proper set of bearing pullers. Good, professional advice from Josh, as always. In that case, keep the centering collars when the spacer is installed in the wheel?

So, they are 5mm but the pitch is fine: 0.8 mm The stand-off is 20mm long from the tach case, then 8mm of threads (28mm overall). The hexagonal "stand-off" is female threaded at its base and screws onto (loosely fitting) studs that come from inside the case. While you may be able to unscrew the stand-offs, it is common for the studs to get loose and just spin. Mine are JBWelded.

My last Veglia is on display at home- I’ll get some dimensions this evening. (Pretty sure they are M5x0.9mm thread pitch.)

Yessir. Just not sure why these bearings only went 600 miles while others have lasted 20,000-40,000 miles. The inner races of the suspect SKF do look "thin" and rather underbuilt. Perhaps, just enough not to tolerate the undersized spacer. All of my spacers and bearings arrived yesterday, so I'm in the process of completing the analysis and staging the reassembly . . . Good news: the replacement wheel bearing spacer is the correct 113 mm !

"She" is the cover darling of Ian Falloon's The Moto Guzzi Story:

This was posted on a another thread (thanks sign216 and footgoose!), but deserves a place here. Luciano Marabese's original monoposto V11 Sport still with 5 speed gearbox:

Thanks, Joe! My, but that image of the Marabese Designs prototype V11 Sport ought to be on the Luciano Marabese thread . . .

Seems your V11 is not charging. You can begin by making sure you have High Current Relays: Make sure the regulator case is grounded to the engine, and the main ground at the right rear of the gearbox is clean and tight. Tighten clean, "treat" battery terminals. Caig DeOxit is electrical liquid magic! If still no charge (check your voltage while running at idle at at "some rpm"), expect something like 14.2 volts, no less than 13.8v. No charging? Inspect the two yellow wires that exit the stator under the "alternator cover" or consider replacing the regulator.

You bought a vintage Yugo?

I feel like the most recent replacement reardrive is a solid piece and cleaning up nicely. It has almost 100,000 miles less than my original. It appears the bit of radial play in my original reardrive was not a contributor to the wheel bearing failures. Still, I have no closure on why those SKF wheel bearings played up. I am having quite a time studying spacers and rear axles. Puzzling!

"Glass mandrels!"

I love it! I love the harmony of the intake sound with the exhaust. So happy with "balancing" the intakes (they were so oddly shaped and asymmetrical). No doubt, when I first did this, over three years ago, the difference in running quality was palpable. Since then, I see that Meinolf has also belled his intakes, so I feel validated! The work PhilA did was compelling and his bell mouths were much larger than mine. I just ran out of time (and beer) to get them that large . . .

Ah. So, on earlier wiring that relies on the relay, the outboard spade connector is hot and on later V11, that connector is switched through the ignition switch?

I was pretty sure the 2001 Rosso Mandello still has the early start wiring through the front two relays. William851, take the "Livin' Easy Test" for your Relay#1. And score those High Current OMRON for a full house of Best Relays.

Best Relay The position #1 5-blade relay is a good place for a bona fide High Current Relay. But recommended for all five positions... on a Rosso Mandello, especially #2 (and #5).

Must be supremely nimble and comfortable!

How much is acceptable? When the Sport started *clacking and *clicking and *popping in the mountains, the radial play on the pinion gave concern. The "green" 50,000 mile reardrive has about 0.012" and the original 111,000 miler feels like more, but the best measure I get is ~0.014". The two replacements (8,700 miles and 14,000 miles) have no palpable radial play. All the popping noises still appear to be from played-up (new) wheel bearings. Still working on a solution for that . . . Stacked tolerances?

Yeah, hoping the internal spacer (coming from Italy) is the correct 113mm. Otherwise, I will shim and hope the next new bearings hold up . . .

My thanks to r3datom for helping me out. Sure appreciate the level of care sharing these parts with the community.

Still waiting on new bearings (Koyo C3) and new spacers (from Italy). Radial play in the reardrive pinion has been suspect, so when the rabbit hole opened up I , of course, dove in . . . I asked the other inmates on the ward if this was a form of insanity and they all assured me: I ain't broke, "jus' badly twisted."

Good things to find! Shaft can be aligned by removing the reardrive, only (axle and the torque arm bolt). (Torque arm/reaction rod is hanging mighty low. Are the rubber bushes okay?) Is that RedFrame, and her "stilettos", > Candy Apple Red < . . . ?