docc

Yep. My experience is that my Sport needed a new TPS every 50-60,000 miles/ 80-100.000 km, so lots of you might be coming into that range. Be checking the sweep of resistance when you do your routine tune-up. When it starts jumping around, time for a new one.

The caps look identical to that I got from CaCycleWorks. Do you think they test every one? I find that so unlikely, but I am rather cynical along those lines. It is looking like, even with shipping halfway 'round the world twice, the cost would be about 1/3 what I paid. Yet, for whomever might take this on, a significant beercharge should be added to each unit . . .

Perhaps a proper slogan for our existence (and not just the motors or bikes, themselves)! We nutters must stick together . . .

Working, now, to bring my Shaky Currach back to the road . . . these people bring me chills . . . https://www.youtube.com/watch?v=kHv3chUOygc Elephant Revival: Shaky Currach

Could not get my leaky, clapped-out throttle bodies to balance well at rpm and give a stable idle. Seems the shafts and seals could use a rebuild at 111,000 miles/ 179.000 km. I feel good about scoring these low-use replacements, complete with PF3C TPS, linkage, and injectors. They cleaned up mighty-fine!

The triples were not tweaked by the collision? I "kinda" remember this V11, but not sure whose it was . . .

Anyone recognize this 2001 Greenie being parted out in Florida?

I did just get my cheap fluid tester. Obviously, we did not get the planned testing done before last year's South'n Spine Raid. Josh even found some new, unopened brake fluid with marginally high water content. Probably smart to test before pouring . . .

SP838, you're talking a RAM clutch conversion, yes?

If you are getting 13.51v with the charger hooked up, after the 14.21v charge terminates, then that is your "float" voltage. Perfect! After maybe eight hours, consider terminating that charge and monitoring how long it takes the battery to drop back to 12.65v; then discharge and repeat. Makes these batteries really strong!

Check also that the Hidden Connectors to the front two fuses have not wiggled loose . . . https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?/topic/19672-30-amp-fuse-failure/&do=findComment&comment=214872

16 years!!! The Odyssey PC545 is the OEM battery. Why not just get another?

Sure. It's really common that these batteries are delivered in need of a charge, often off the shelf at 50%. A series of discharge/charge events will help ensure the depth of charge and life of the battery. Use an approved charger with adequate amperage (6 amps or more) and voltages correct for the AGM: Odyssey PC545 Battery conditioning

The float was a typical 13.1v even though it said "AGM" on it. Yours looks like the real deal, though! (As long as that float voltage is over 13.2 . . .)

That voodoo we do . . .

Mind the "conditioning." Jus'sayin' . . .

"Don't [be] like my [docc]!" Dang , buddy: and here I am carrying around your Unbreakable Chook-made Shift Spring . . .

Do the voltages (Charging 14.2-14.7v) and "float" (13..5-13.8v) check out, Dave? I ask because I returned a charger (not that model) from that manufacturer that did not check out . . .

Well, nuts! I stayed up all night pulling my gearbox (not) . . . .

Lots of folks get up to ten years from the OEM Odyssey PC545. IMO, they benefit from some consistent attention (conditioning) and an Odyssey approved charger, but so many get good service from them without fussing over that.

How does that 1/4" shaft compare with the factory 6speed twin-plate pushrod you have?

WHAAAAAT? OH $#!T . . . That's the way it came off. Of course, the retention safety washer had not been correctly staked and it walked of on its own. Tomchri's looks the same here?: The new safety washer tab indexed smartly with the "nut" in this orientation: I can't find this assembly in the Workshop Manual at all.

Right. The "hub" fastens to the gearbox input shaft with a special nut and "safety retention washer" with a tab that turns down to lock the "slotted nut." Don't let it walk off and end up like po'-po' me . . .

The fourth spacer is inside the reardrive. I really do not want to open up another reardrive unless I absolutely have to. Seems the rear axle carries four bearings, four spacers, and three "forks" (two of the swingarm and one for the brake bracket) . . . busy axle, as I said!

The various bearings I have all show nearly identical width of the inner races using my dial caliper (not a micrometer, but probably good enough). I don't think this application is a good place for extra lateral play, but if the spacer is correct it should be fine . . . yes? As I said, I am also replacing the spacer between the inboard wheel bearing and inboard reardrive bearing. The one that hangs on the axle when we take our wheel off. Also replacing the right side sleeve that seats inside the exposed needle cage.