docc

Thank you, Sir! I really do appreciate all of the discussion and encouragement.

I have been determined to be most deliberate and exacting with the torque process on the pinch bolts. I recall someone posting here, years ago, that pinch bolts should be done up in steps, one then the other, since tightening one will slack the other slightly. That done, and applying a bit more torque than I used before (~34Nm, rather then ~28Nm), I rode almost 60 miles/100km, put it on the lift and retorqued using the back-and-forth method. The rears may have moved ever so slightly, but the fronts definitely turned in a bit; just a nudge from each, but about three nudges from each. Replaced the red index marks (is there a name for those?) and made promises to actually inspect them. Feeling a lot better about this way of torquing the drive shaft pinch bolts.

On a high note , I just sat the Sport back on her on two feet. Ready to roll after Four Days and a few hours! This community is AMAZING! Thanks so much to everyone for contributing. ---> footgoose (The Etsy Windchime thing just didn't work out, so I buttoned her back up. )

Pressureangle set us up with a good Universal Joint Thread. Watch for progress (or not) there: https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=20425

This is a V65? What year?

I couldn't leave that image up, guys. It was about the parting out, but not OK when we know the guy that fell. HRC_V4, glad to hear you are making progress! I "know you know" about the South'n Spine Raid in Tellico Plains coming up (weekend after Labor Day), but if you can get there, "Y'all come, now, ya hear?" FWIW, I love that generation of Quota, especially the khaki/forest green . . .

I feel bad about the post I made with the awkward image. I'm taking the image down. Sorry about that, HRC_V4 . . . Best regards to you!

I've decided to take the Sport to bits and make wind chimes from it to sell on Etsy. Chicks will dig this . . .

FWIW, I could not "feel" the wear shown on that one leg of the cross by putting the cap on and turning it. More to say that this was not a U-joint failure. Moving ahead on the refit, I have straightened, and painted the guard ring. Each fastener point was bent, the paint was burned off, and it is bell shaped now. The welds are solid. This thing saved my ass. I would say, don't ever take the shaft guards off your V11 . . .

That is sweet! I love the lean angles and view swivel. And I thought this ride with Sebastian Loeb, 2013, was thrilling . . .

In that case, why don't I simply clean and grease the back part of the replacement shaft that is on my bench now (thanks footgoose!), and index it to my front shaft that is already on the bike?

Well . . . kinda. Sometimes summer, too . . . but not by design . . .

Those are good questions. While I've had the front of the shaft off the gearbox output numerous times over the years, the first time I separated the rear shaft from the reardrive was 2,000 miles ago to replace the reardrive, and again 1,000 miles ago to reinstall my original reardrive. I don't suppose I do an actual annual service. Certainly no teardown as might be common to aircraft. My maintenance methodology is probably reflected best in the three "compendium" threads I've complied. My Tune-up interval is 5,000 miles/8.000km, rear wheel off 4,000-4,500, and tank off 12,000 miles/ 20.000km. Decent Tune-up Tank Off Maintenance Checklist Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist Not sure how easy the early crack(s) would be to see. It is definitely something for all of us to be aware of. I've added a link to his thread in the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist. My conviction that the failure is totally a result of something I've done wrong has waned a bit, but not entirely. Installing those fasteners correctly and torquing them properly certainly appears critical.

The marks on the cross do not go all the way round the mating surface, only about 25% around. Pretty much what you see there. The other cap was destroyed in the bashing about.

I needed some hard rockin' blues with the Sport back on the lift . . .

I spoke, by phone, with this supplier today. The gentleman was very courteous. They generally do not supply customers directly. So, waiting for a quote, by email, in Canadian dollars which I send by mail. The product then sent to me , by mail. And here I was perfectly willing to show up alone, with cash (Canadian dollars, even!), no Mounties . . .

" . . . weird looking nut at the front of the input shaft . . ." Nefarious! This one? Better when it's torqued up and the retention washer is engaged!

So, a couple things . . . Red arrow points to the largest broken surface that does not look as fresh and shiny as the other breaks. Blue arrows to the threaded surfaces that look pretty flattened to me. These things are soooo easy to cross thread on re-assembly. Ignition key is there to show just how small this part is and how little metal is there!

Well done, Niels !

Yeah, what's up with my twenty year warranty? @Andy - yeah, there was something different about the RedFrame. Can't remember what it was. @Chuck - I do have a beam that I got to cover this "in between" range for another job. I'll use it this time and verify the collars are tightly clamped onto the shafts. @Gene - original bolts. My replacements didn't work out. One of these got re-cut pretty substantially after the cross thread mistake. @Baldini - I remember your misalignment and checked mine then. I’ll get a careful look at the replacement. Thanks for the reminder! I'll get another image up of the failed yoke. Wow, but there is not much metal there considering what that piece does!

I found the front pinch bolts about 24.5 Nm. Below the spec of 25-30 Nm for an 8mm bolt. Seems they must have loosened up. Even at ~30Nm, the collar slips fore and aft on the splines. [ I have one torque wrench that goes to 29.03 Nm and the other starts at 33.9 Nm. ] At 33.9 Nm, the collar does not slide on the shaft. I have also heard that torque wrenches are not accurate within 10% of their end ranges (?)

I always have painted alignment marks on the pinch bolts and monitored them, but not every ride, every time. Right now, the front half of the shaft slips fore and aft freely on the output shaft. Cheers, Tom! "Nut Brown Ale!"

This and making sure they have a tight fitting crimp, then seal them over with a generous length of heat shrink tubing for each.

I wish I had those observational skills. Josh does. I'm glad others do. I do ponder that the fasteners simply did not retain their torque, even with the LocTite. Is it expected that the coupling clamps down tight onto the splines such that there is zero fore-aft movement of the couplings (front and rear) on the gearbox output shaft and the reardrive input shaft?