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Today, attempting to display guzzidiag on a different ECU I could not get the individual measurements to display before dropping down each individual menu and selecting the parameter I wanted to see. Once connected back to my own Sport, all of the previously selected measurements populated themselves. Just an observation worth knowing if you are switching guzzidiag between different bikes.

Cleaning/DeOxit® of the Run Switch solved my intermittent no start that was accompanied by simultaneous No-Go_Winkie. Saved me a boatload of troubleshooting! :thumbsup:

And? How was your day at the track?

One must tread lightly around these matters of ogling lest the animism of one's V11 become irked . . .

A "V10" Scura, yes?

Moto Guzzi saddled us with this confusion. The Daytona were inscribed "4V", in contrast to the other BigBlocks which were "two valve' (per cylinder or per head). So, yes an eight valve engine, 4V per head. The next generation 1200 engine for the 1200Sport, Griso, Stelvio, Norge were "Quattro Valvole," again, per head: (Early 1200 offerings were still two valve/head.) Seems that after all the early 1200 "4V" valve train failures, the bikes started being called "8V", even though the motor is still the "Quattro Valvole." As I am in no way an expert on post-V11 Moto Guzzi, I invite clarification from those more familiar with the later (1200) nomenclature, as well as the Original Poster with his fabulous Scura on offer. [Also, GuzzBun, I will take this post down if you prefer.)

Thanks, cash! Yeah, this is in the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist: >Inspect the crank case vent breather hose (30 15 7400) under the frame that ventilates the crankcase. It clamps on above the "bell housing" that houses the clutch assembly. If it cracks, collapses, or gets loose the vented oil will emerge from the lower bell housing weep hole making you think the rear main seal is gone. There is a heater hose that can be fitted for this application, but the consensus is that the rubber will not tolerate the exposure to oil.

In preparation for the upcoming Fart-eenth South'n Spine Raid, I've opened this regulator connector, cleaned out all the old nasty dried-up copper anti-seize paste (which I used to think was a good idea). Applied CRC Electronics Cleaner, scrubbed with a pipe cleaner, spread the male connectors slightly, Caig DeOxit G5 (with lubricant), and a more tight fitting heat shrink. Not planning on riding in another rain like that last one, but ya never know!

Here, in the 95ºF/35ºC heat of the US southern summer, that looks positively delicious!!

Since the existing system senses air and engine temperature, and barometric pressure, what is it about the weather that one would have to adjust for manually?

jbntx, with the wonders of guzzidaig, compatible cabling, and TunerPro, you can interface with your existing ECU and do everything you wish. (Probably won't take much unless you are making radical modifications.)

It's not the cold weather, but the low voltage/low amp chargers that will kill them. Batteries that sit a lot are tough. No such thing as "No Maintenance."

If I've learned three (or more) things about the Odyssey PC545: 1) No "trickle charge" (unless it is from a dedicated EnerSys approved charger). 2) Monitor your battery voltage with a voltmeter. When it drops [just] below 12.65v, apply at least 5 or 6 amps until the voltage reaches 14.72 (no more than 15.0) and terminate the charge. 3) Always discharge before starting or charging (turn the lights on a couple'o-three minutes). 4?: Keep all of your connections, battery terminals, starter connections, everything clean, tight, and treated (Vaseline® or >better>: Caig DeOxit®)

I recently tried to save an Odyssey PC545 that spent the winter on a low amp/ low volt BatteryTender. Could not save it.

Meinolf has likely constructed the most refined V11 map(s) in the world. There are specific adjustment parameters (valves, CO, and air bypass screws) to observe.

Dang, most "trickle chargers" will kill an Odyssey AGM. They (EnerSys/Odyssey) say so, clearly. The voltage/ amperage algorithm has to be correct for the Odyssey AGM. Also, a new battery (Odyssey AGM PC545) will likely be delivered at 50-75% and should be conditioned before installation.

Freeze spray, heat gun, and a freezer. Makes that inner bearing a breeze as long as you take the temperature high enough (100ºC).

Yes, that is very likely. Always bleed the rear brake with the bleed nipple facing upward.

Considering a Technical Session having a look at the feet and function of V11 sidestands. The foot is generally hidden when parked and there are reports of heavy wear at the contact point with the tarmac. Consider servicing your V11 sidestand fasteners and switch. That largest bolt into the timing chest is torqued to 75 Nm! And that little bolt into the sump spacer? Sketchy!

Any word on the hot rear drive, Canonman?

On the best of days, riding in the hills and along the creeks, I feel like this with the sport . . .

And 426 pounds!

We had the chance to look one over really closely at Barber's motorsports Museum. The frame is absolutely amazing.

Mine’s been on the Sport years. I guess they were slotted back then? Thanks for the heads-up on the change!

The PF3C is the OEM Magnetti-Marelli TPS for the V11. I am using the PF4C sourced form H-D for the Buell with the "different curve."