docc

I added Guzzi accessory (Mistral) round cf cans really early on. Immediately, I felt like the V11 is mapped more for that freer flow than the restrictive (and heavy) US LaFranchoni. It is critical to accurately index your existing map ("baseline" the TPS), and optimize ("zero") the CO Fuel Trim. If very diligent and complete tuning does not sort a V11, consider Meinolf's map(s). AFAIK, he is the one that has taken the time and due diligence to really "clean" and adapt the V11 map.

How did you break your map?

Welldone, Sir! I see you have already been linked to the pinned Diagnostic Cables thread that differentiates the three cables including the TPS breakout harness from Caspers.

Probably still need to pull those brass connection bands out more for better connection. Easy enough, but once they have softened (probabably from heat and vibration), a new tail light assembly may be the best medicine . . . Here is the 1157-style LED unit that swooshdave posted. It is fabulous! https://www.ebay.com/itm/291936498074

This pinned thread differentiates the (3) Diagnostic Cables.

Seat height is all superfluous (underway) until that stop on a funky, dished, uphill right hander where the ground is about as far away as the Marianas Trench is deep (i.e.: impossible to sound . . .)

I think performing the tune-up is a joy.

1157 is a little higher wattage for the tail light. There is that flashing red LED on eBay that swooshdave put us onto. Works really great (plug&play). The I finally got tired of JBWelding my light assembly back together and installed a new one.

I've fetttled a few of these tail lights to enhance connection. Using a bent-tip probe and needle nose pliers, you can reshape the two copper contacts inside the socket giving them more curve and prominence; pulling them further "out" or "aft," so-to-speak. It is a bit of laparoscopic sculpture, of sorts . . .

Yo . . . -doc . . . Go no further down the tuning hole before simply performing the : "Decent Tune-up" It is not the >end-all-and-be-all (Meinolf, and "Beard" / guzzidiag, have us covered! )

So nicely done! And the music! Die Berliner Philharmoniker performing Vivaldi? (Perfect for the classy bike and such clean work!) I did spy the one hammer in the window sill . . .

So, the only thing you changed was leaving the tank vent (and overflow) nipples open (no hoses)? Balancing the throttle bodies (white knob) requires a balancing tool ("carb tool": manometer, mercury sticks, electronic balancer, etc. that hooks to the vacuum ports on the intake manifolds behind the cylinder heads. Which begs the question, have you performed the "Decent Tune-up" to include zeroing the CO Fuel Trim and baselining the TPS?

Seems that a proper TechSession could be in order simply evaluating wear patterns on sidestands . . . . . . .addressing the small fastener into the sump spacer . . . . . . and torgueing that main fastener to 75 ft-lbs! What a device! (Our V11 sidestands . . .)

Too cool! Welcome to The Asylum! I already can't tell you from the other inmates on the ward . . . A couple links for you, Sir: Posting photos is best done with hosting. Best hosting site, ever (what I use): https://imgzeit.com/tour As for music, our Chief Whip, Jaap, started this great thread to post what we listen to: "What do you listen to? Share your faves." I have enjoyed, and learned of, so much great music there!

Makes me wonder about the process of "kicking" the stand down. If that tip/shoe slams the pavement every time it's kicked down, there would be this same wear configuration.

Be aware of routing and proper shielding of the fuel supply line from the petcock to the pump. Scud has this covered in his "How to Make a Fuel Supply Line" thread.

"One of" the original, early V11 fuel pump locations (viewed from the left looking forward):

Idling on the stand is going to grind off 1/4" of aluminum alloy? Now, that's a lumpy idle!

Okay, here is an image from the right showing the location of the filter (WIX for Isuzu Trooper), relative to the airbox and the two vent/overflow hoses for the nipples on the bottom of the tank (co-joined in this case). >click on image for full size And another without the airbox (or gearbox, or swingarm, or wheel, but with Emmy Lou Harris. Which makes everything alright. ):

Right . . . so, your PO has relocated the fuel pump on top of the frame instead of its original location under the left side of the frame (before the filter). Probably in an effort to deal with (or concern over) "vapor lock". The long, heat-shielded feed line further supports this. While the tank is off, have a go at the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist. It is a compendium of this community's experience with issues that should be seen-to with the tank off.

As delivered, the tank vent was fitted with a one way (plastic disc) valve. These must be vertical (or removed) or the tank will not vent (ie: "tank suck") usually this is noted by a great *whoooosh* when opening the filler cap. Not sure if it may only be US bikes fitted with the valve?

That visible wear on that edge is what I am familiar with occurring from deep cornering with the sidestand up. There are those who have shorted the rubber stop to let the stand seat itself further toward the sump for more clearance. Again, mine hasn't touched down since refitting my suspension. But this other wear is on the tip (bottom of the stand when down/deployed). what does your stand look like there, Tinus?

Surfin’ Spine Raid!

You have a later tank than my early (external pump and filter) chin-pad job. Let's see what the late-model fellows say about hose routing for your fuel supply . . .

What do you mean about getting the pipes under the tank wrong way round? (You are right about the overflow and breather.)