What Chuck sez. (That's a pretty safe bet, always . . . )
The ignition/ injection harness is totally separate on the V11 from the lighting/ starting / charging systems.
-->> Back two relays, front two fuses.
The front two fuses also have four spade connector under them (bottom of the fuse block). Pry the fuse block out of the rubber mounts and inspect the front four connectors/ clean, treat with DeOxit and secure).
I have found the factory shop stand (or equivalent) indispensable. Especially on a lift using a Baxter SportChock up front:
And when things get seriously serious, platform jack:
If you insist on using the silly little spindle to support the sump with the front wheel off, you've been warned. The V11 can (and does!) fall off of it!
Alternate Method A:
Alternate Method B:
Highest and best use of the factory stand spindle? Home Decor!
Thank you, yes, I was trying to ask if the leak is motor oil or gear oil.
With the gearbox removed, is it very wet in the housing around the clutch?
If so, and it is gearoil, Pete Roper is saying that the most likely leak is the seals for the clutch pushrod coming form the slave cylinder behind the gearbox.
My Sport was also leaking motor oil from the flat gasket for the crankcase breather tube at the top right.
The "two bolts" Pete Roper describes are at the bottom of the rear main bearing carrier at the rear of the engine. There are several other places that can leak engine oil. The second link you have is about leaking gearbox oil. Which type of oil is making your gearbox wet?
Definitely in position #5, but why not just do them all?
So many of the relays that have been foisted upon us are under-rated or have poor quality control. Use a well rated, High Current relay + full set
I ask this because it so often overlooked as a component of the state of tune. For a long while I was fortunate to have 91 AKI zero-ethanol available. The Sport ran smoother, no doubt.
Some other motorcyclists and vintage car enthusiasts exposed me to Shell 93AKI V-Power Nitro+ . I started using it (almost) exclusively in the Sport a year and a half ago. When I have had to fill up with an alternative, even 93AKI, I am immediately reminded of the hiccups and stumbles.
Many of you know how extensively I have tried to chase down, correct, and document the various issues that contribute to V11-stumble. They all matter.
You've done a lot of things right not-fishing! This is something super-simple worth trying.
Awesome, man!
Seriously, folks: The Best Twenty-five US Bucks that you can spend on your V11! I've seen High Current relays solve soooo many problems that we have chased from one end of this bike to the other for years-and-years.
Get 'em while you can!
I had a lot of fun with that modification. There was beer involved. I would think using Coke bottles an affront. At least to the beer drinking.
A couple things really surprised me (outside of the volume and variety of beer consumed): The polymer material ("plastic") is REALLY stiff, and the difference it made in running quality and audible "note" has been a true delight.
[edit: I see that thread ran from October to February (2016). Pretty sure that was a cold winter here . . . ]
Haha, well, it's easy to paraphrase questions for bit of fun and totally dodge the issue . . .
For sure, I never noticed the Parts Manual is in error on the location of those two parts. Good call, there!
Easy to answer the first half of the first half of the first question: ("First, does anyone know where I can find a female . . . [ ?]")
A: nope
Seriously, second question: yep, the parts manual pictures the devices in reverse. The petcock is to the rear.
So, you could source a lower rear subframe for a 1999-2001 V11 Sport (or Rossso Mandello) to mount the EV moter?
(The top plate mount is true of the Sport1100/1100Sport-i, but was omitted on the early V11 Sport.)
I can write you "a note" . . . .
"A proper and sustained dose of vibration and wind therapy, applied with a V-twin and mountain air, is well indicated."