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docc

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Everything posted by docc

  1. docc

    Go_Winkie!

    I think I've found a perfect spot for this indicator. (pictures later). So, diagnostically: If the light is lit, the current is making it through all the choke points (ignition switch, run switch, relays #1 and #2) and the sidestand switch (stand up/in gear) and neutral switch/ relay #3 (stand down/in neutral)? If the bike sputters underway, and the light flickers: the trouble is *one of the above*? If the light is on and the bike won't run, it is one the back two relays, the ECU, coils, or fuel pump/injectors?
  2. Really? I can't find it there. Only MGCycle has the disclaimer that redirects to the 2002 V11 LeMans cable 1117560. Later V11 apparently also have a "return" cable. I can't find anything the *replacement* 1117590 is supposed to fit. Is there anyone, anywhere that has 1999-2001 V11 with a 90˚ angled steel tube leaving the throttle control?
  3. Ok, so, you said that, not me . . . "Early Scura": 2002 "Late Scura" : 2005 Scura R (all known examples have had 2004 VIN) - perhaps the most rare V11?
  4. I am anxious to hear how mixing vermouth and carpentry sheds more light on Bernoulli's Principle!
  5. On closer inspection, and extended consideration, I'm concerned that resting my fuel line (and, therefor, the tank weight itself) on the cable housing deforms it enough to cause alignment problems which might shorten the cable life. Going back together, I'm planning on grooming the fuel line completely off of the cable housing and its bracket.
  6. I certainly have made these inlet tracts "smoother" and more "polished," but likely didn't open them enough to make a maximal difference. This weekend's ride should reveal any impressions.
  7. I'm trying to remember the V11s with single plate clutch/aluminum flywheel: early Scura, Tenni, and also the Rosso Mandello?
  8. You know, it's pretty common to see pictures of Guzzis with hammers in the background, but "Heavy Duty Sawszall?" That oughta do it!
  9. docc

    Go_Winkie!

    Right? On the early tanks, the notch is quite deep and the light could be sistered to the frame's crankcase vent; even using the bolt head to "back" the bulb . . . Good call! I'm liking this plan. 150 count of various LEDs should be here in time to stay up late working on the bike the night before a trip!
  10. docc

    Go_Winkie!

    Yeah, roger that. I was hoping not to cross the headstock with more wiring. I was thinking that if I were trying to trouble shoot, the bike would already be on the sidestand and the seat off . . . I forgot about the *intermittent fault* indicator.
  11. docc

    List

    How can we get this into a searchable part of the forums? This is such great information!
  12. I've always thought it such a good idea of Kiwi_Roy's to add an indicator light to Fuse 8 to show that power has made it through the Ignition Switch and the Run Switch. So, I've fished out the connector to my original electric petcock and clipped the connector off the petcock itself to make ready for a green LED to tell me "systems are go." But I have some questions about the whole affair: Why couldn't we just poke an LED into the fuse block in place of the fuse? Without the connector fastened to something would the LED light?
  13. "Therein lies the rub." I think they're just gonna feel better, all smooth and polished and bell-mouthy . . . Although, the right was palpably more restricted than the left. I wonder if the intake balance may have changed? Or the idle speed nips up a bit? Otherwise, it's all largely a subjective exercise. I've always been a sucker for "velocity stacks!"
  14. To be honest, I found the inlets to be a definite choke point. The more I worked with them, the more I realized how much they pinch down as the air goes in and how irregular the first 3"/75mm. If the inlet started at 39mm, it must have pinched down to 35mm inside necessitating a lot of prying and shaping with glass mandrel #1 (EvilTwinBrewing YIN Imperial Taiji Stout) with final shaping and polishing with mandrel #2 (Austria's Hofstetten Granitbock). While mandrel #3 (Oregon's RogueXS Bitter Ale) had the specified overall diameter, I just could not take it out that far; ran out of time, steam, and gumption. And beer. The plastic of the air box is very stout (heh - pun ; / ) and took quite a lot of careful heating and shaping to rework.
  15. Is that code for another complete and meticulous restoration?
  16. I tried to align this angle before, but obviously didn't get it lined up very well: Better after another try: But, I've got to get my fuel line from resting the tank's weight on the cable housing; this cannot be helping with the alignment:
  17. @ Gio - I just cannot bring myself to make those holes! I am going to study up on NACA ducting, but will likely leave the lid sealed. @JBB - The three cables cost me about $75US: 1) Caspers TPS breakout harness to set the baseline TPS with a voltmeter; 2) FTDI chipped OBD to USB like this one from ECS Tuning; 3) FIAT/Lancia 3 pin to ODB adapter cable. [edit Jan 2020: No surprise the ebay seller for Cable#3, above, is long gone. Looks like Lonelec still offers the #2/#3 combo: https://www.lonelec.co.uk/index.php?route=product/product&product_id=51] Somehow, it just seems right to use both a hammer and a computer to tinker with the Guzzi! I really only had the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist for reference and revisions (no guzzidiag this time) After some hours of using "glass mandrels" (which had to be first emptied! ) and a heat gun, I managed to give the inlets a nice, polished bell shape, but only opened them about 5mm (not the 11 mm specified by PhilA). I expect it to make no appreciable difference outside of my cognitive existentialism. But they look nice!
  18. Al, that OBD/USB looks like the one I got that would not work (presumably because the chip is not actually FTDI). This one from ECS Tuning does work, but took a long time to deliver.
  19. docc

    20151003 161848

    This is such great technical info! How to . . . get it posted in "How To . . . ?"
  20. Also, searching (diligently, I assure you, Sir!) for the correct glass mandrel to expand the "bell mouths" to a proper 50mm . . . (I was hoping the "OLD LEGHUMPER" would do it, just for bragging rights.)
  21. It is always *an event* when the V11 is apart and waiting for parts . . . things happen. There's no stopping it! Preparing for a ride (five days out ) to the Barber Vintage Festival, I figured on installing my "spare" (incorrect) throttle cable. See the other threads for that cock-up. . . . while performing, Beta testing, and revising the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist. So, with the Sport poised like a willing *subject* in The La-BOR-atory, and the airbox lid at hand I couldn't ignore the findings of PhilA and the observations of Greg Field. http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18909&p=100986 I have also retrieved the stowed electrical lead for the original electrical petcock (Fuse 8) to route forward a "Systems are GO" (Go_Winkie) indicator light, per Kiwi_Roy's encouragement. My, my . . . Wish me luck. Send beer . . .
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