docc
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Everything posted by docc
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How so very interesting. Is there any "table" of factory map codes? I have the "original" V11 map that Meinolf references (3D02VS9F). I'll be more observant when I scan my "guest" Rosso Corsa of 2003.
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I love my Tekno panniers! The pannier mounts are susceptible to fatigue and cracking. This is the worst place I've seen come from together: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=16190&p=174290
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Sounds good, David. Those inboard facing threads will be much happier with a full coat of anti-seize thread lubricant; especially since they're stainless . . . These pannier mounts have been known to cause cracks at various points in the mounting brackets and tabs, so look them all over really well.
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Seven (+) weeks out and it's time to consider this year's Tech Session. Sometimes, these present themselves un-asked-for. As in, "What to Do with A Crossover Pipe F.O.R.D" or "Relay 101." Others have been by *design* : "How To Put a Case of Ale in the Tekno Panniers" or "How Far Off Center is Your Swingarm?" So, what-next-most? Will guzzidiag run on a SmartPhone?
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Thank you, Camn, I feel better about getting the TPS breakout harness to set the TPS baseline.
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Inlet valve came loose,anyone heard of something like that?
docc replied to Anders's topic in Technical Topics
If the valve adjustment "loosened" the valve would not reach further into the cylinder, but simply would not open. 5 mm into the cylinder, (I would think) would put the valve into the piston (very bad). It really sounds like the adjusting lock nut came loose (noisy, but no real damage). Just a valve adjustment - no engine tear down. -
I remember Mienolf saying that a voltage drop will affect guzzidiag (I paraphrase deeply . . .) It occurs to me to suggest the (simple) "Wiggle Test" - get the engine temp reading live and begin to "wiggle", and stress, and shove about on various points in the harness and connections looking for a place that changes the reading.
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Since (I understand) you changed the sensor already, there must be some connection issue that is not allowing the ECU (and guzzidiag) to see the correct engine temperature. The technical interpretation of "stone cold?" The engine temperature sensor and air temperature sensor read the same. Otherwise, YSMV (Your Stone Might Vary) Meinolf's first post regarding temperatures (Post# 138): http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&p=204809 And Post# 142: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&p=205220 I'll be having a close look since I am (finally!) using guzzidiag and have had extensive experience with the Engine Temperature Sensor.
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Jim, Do you have a link to Meinolf's post about the temperature sensor?
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After ordering this TPS breakout harness, I realized that guzzidiag will read both the throttle angle and the throttle voltage. So, I expect that the 150mV TPS baseline can be set using the software . . . Incidentally, I am using the referenced ECS FTDI OBD cable. It took a long time to arrive and it has no LED power indicator, but it is working.
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Jim, is the engine temp only different at operating temperature, or do you see a difference in the cold reading as well? FWIW, mine reads the same running and not on start up (not at operating temp). [ ~24˚C ]
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Inlet valve came loose,anyone heard of something like that?
docc replied to Anders's topic in Technical Topics
Agreed with the posters so far. A loose lock nut would be the likely culprit to allow to valve to loosen up. Also that 0,5 mm may be more likely? At a full 5 mm, the valve would not open at all and the motor would be running on one cylinder. Adjusting the valves and rechecking them fairly soon seems to be good method, and hopefully something you would not have to wait weeks for . . . -
I could only find this one (is there another you were thinking of?) V11 rear drive pinion play, March 2010 Otherwise, Robin, that play looks ok to me.
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6,000 is great for a rear tire (for me at least - unheard of! ) I like 40 psi in the rear, 35 front - while our tire sizes are different and all that, but the V11 are certainly, well, "rear biased."
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No, no, no - it's a buddy's bike that needed some luvin' Made it MUCH better, but still need to "fine tune." (Trying to figure out this "guzzidiag" thing. )
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Just took the Rosso Corsa off the lift. The fellow's had it a couple years and it was right ready for a good going through. Guzzidiag is such an excellent tool to get base lines, zeroed the CO (his was minus 31 !) and set the TPS all the while watching the engine temp and the air temp get closer. Once "cooled down", the valves were I/E: .007/.004 right and .011/.010 left. It was idling at 900 rpm with a throttle opening of 2.66˚. I fooled with it about four hours in all including a very careful oil and filter change, throttle body balance, and fitting the missing cap on the left vacuum tap. All in all, I do believe the good fellow is going to have a very fine ride home!
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The V11 series is 1999-2004/5. ("first generation" 6 speed) I would not think any gearbox parts from later years would be correct.
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Wait . . . why? Because an Aluminium head expands more than steel plug so removing will be aided. The opposite for installation.Its highly desireable to avoid installation and torquing on a hot head but if you have no choice then install the plug and let it sit for 5 min or so to absorb some heat before torquing. All falls under the umbrella of " good engineering practice" Ciao Thanks for that! Makes sense. In an engineering practice sort of way . . . (I edited the "best answer" post)
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+ 5 hours from shutdown, engine temp 27˚C/ air temp 25˚C; valves have stayed 0.006/0.008. Other than the hot (90˚C) valves being unexpectedly looser, and the intake looser than the exhaust, there are a couple other observations: 1) With the fans on the motor, it cooled almost 90% in 40 minutes and the valves returned to their "stone cold" setting. So, I would conclude that the motor simply needs to "cool down" for valve adjustment, but doesn't need to be "stone cold" or sit overnight; not even for hours. Notably, the valve cover was removed during the cool-down. 2) It's OK to remove the spark plugs from a hot engine. But best to replace them when cold. 3) guzzidiag is a wonderful tool for monitoring actual engine temperature/ air temperature.
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I was thinking they may have a local resource. There was a kennel just outside of town, but she's been closed a couple years.
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Oh, man, that's cold. While you were riding the TIOGA PASS, I was trying not to say anything about my little foray up Hogjaw Valley . . . Dude! That's my favorite part!
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First off, what's the chance of warming the bike up (18 miles riding) to 90˚C (guzzidiag), putting it on the lift and finding the right cylinder at TDC? Here's what I found: intake had loosened 0.002" (to 0.008") and the exhaust had loosened just less than 0.001" (to 0.009ish"). Not what I expected. I'll watch it over the next couple hours as it cools down and see what happens. edit: 40 minutes in my 20˚C/70˚F garage with two fans on the motor and guzzidiag reads 34˚C, valves measure 0.006/0.008. That's a much quicker "recovery" than I expected also. I'll have to check it again later and make sure they don;t keep tightening up as she cools to 20˚C.
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@g: you're talking these people, right? (I get the "Keyboard Carriage" part now!)
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So, just for general reference, they charge by the mile, by weight, flat rate . . .?
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You should still have the last slot in the fuse box to test from . . .
