docc

Just made my reservation with Walt (The Lodge at Tellico, 423.253.2506). Sounds like quite a few of you are in already. Although the rooms aren't particularly suited for doubling up (king bed and a kid's bed), be sure to post if you're looking to share a room. Walt had a group want to rent the whole campus, but - the gentleman that he is - told them we'd been coming five years (this is our sixth in Tellico). So, eight weeks out, let's start to firm up a plan (as-it-were).

New South'n Spine Raid theme song! I did not realize the hollows were so deep in Finland! ( I see these cats are in Nashville right after the Spine Raid! This is a must-do!)

I'd love to sit in with this lady!

The workshop manual I have shows the shock mounted with the body anchored to the frame; "inverted," if you will. Less unsprung weight? They sometimes do things *differently* in California . . .

I do wish we had a step-by-step tutorial on using just guzzidiag, including the CO trim adjustment, separate from the long thread pinned above.

Yes. Once the axle is out, and with the wheel supported, the caliper hanger rotates down and slides free of the block. It's a bit fiddly to slide the block back in, but you'll get the hang of it after a few passes. Docc - Stewgnu has a 2004 V11, presumably with the longer bolt though the carrier. I am not sure if the caliper will swing free with out removing the bolt. Right! True, that. The pivot method likely only works on the early carriers then since the later, longer pinned bolt appears to go clear through the carrier itself and not just into the sliding block. Edit: I revised the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist again, with a link to this thread: >Clean the rear brake carrier pin and block; lube lightly and be certain the pin threads are clean, lubed* and well torqued. (later V11s have a retaining clip on the inboard side). *Consider a thread locking compound. Allowing this locator pin to fall out can be catastrophic! On the early V11 (1999-2002), some have decided to torque the pin in place and only use the sliding block to remove the rear wheel, perhaps reducing the chance that the pin would not be reinstalled correctly and safely.

There have been a couple reports of broken master cylinder springs that would prevent the clutch from disengaging. Typically, there is an increase in lever "free play." Master cylinder rebuild is pretty reasonable.

Yes. Once the axle is out, and with the wheel supported, the caliper hanger rotates down and slides free of the block. It's a bit fiddly to slide the block back in, but you'll get the hang of it after a few passes.

Sounds like all the connections are good. The solenoid can be disassembled and cleaned, as I recall. Otherwise, it's time to get the starter apart and see if the magnets have come unglued . . .

Looking forward to seeing if this makes some real difference. Something like Lucas 20w-50 V-twin oil? (I'd be edgy about pressures under 20 psi, but that's just me. Being edgy. ) What's the stock idiot light threshold again? (I forget)

In my experience, that's decent mileage on a rear of these heavy dancin' girls. Nothing "flat" looking about your profile. How about a pic showing the angle of the sidewall to the rim?

Sounds like time for the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist paying special attention to the bullet connectors for the clutch switch as K_R has said . . . Try holding in the clutch, gearbox in neutral, pressing the starter button and rotating the steering lock-to-lock. If the starter catches up, it's surely the bullet connectors under the left side of the tank beside the head stock.

I remember where I put the bag to take the picture. I just can't keep track of where I left my head!

Something like this gizmo? Perhaps I should be applying it more often. Maybe every oil change or at least every gear oil change? What's the preferred cable lube these days?

That is so funny . . . Maybe some carrots and onions around them would seal the illusion.

I miss Hubert, too. I hope he is well. His V11 photos were stunning, along with his special way of saying things. One of a kind!

"I know nussing."

That's a great idea to carry. I just bought one to stash under-seat. http://www.amazon.com/Gear-Gremlin-GG150-Cable-Repair/dp/B008U9HO0C/ref=pd_sim_263_2?ie=UTF8&refRID=06330BBBHS3NNTWX18GT Docc - You are like a one-man tourism and visitor's bureau... always pointing out the unique charms and recreational opportunities available in "Middle Tennessee." Actually, we were bent on "points beyond . . ." @Craig - Thanks for that good advice; makes perfect sense. The cable rode 700+ miles, no problem. I'll get one on order. This one lasted 33,000 miles and would likely go much further if I didn't know about the tiny fault in the single strand.

Final prep today, so I'll hunt around for the cable repair kit. I figure it would be ok, as Scud said, as I've found the cable much worse in the past. It never occurred to me to try a little solder, but I never found one this early where there is nothing sticking out (yet). Winding route for certain, but "dealers" where we're going are more likely purveying meth and moonshine . . .

Doing some pre-ride prep I can feel a broken strand on the throttle cable; not separated yet. No way I can have a replacement in time to leave out in 36 hours. So . . . . can a cable like be soldered lightly while the strand is still gathered up? Or just leave it alone for the next 600 miles/ 1.000 km?

I'm not sure why it seems more natural to me to have the GPS (ZUMO 550) on the left - maybe 'cause I wasn't using the Veglia speedo at the time . . . Garmin mount detail on an early Sport: While the Garmin 60 series is, perhaps, the most versatile product they've ever made , the 660 is a much larger device meant for mounting like the 550.

After getting their website to open, clicking on "shop" just seems to redirect to the homepage.

Indeed, the later generation (2003 on) added the longer pivot bolt with securing pin inboard (I wonder why??? ) Yet, it would appear that the later carrier bracket must also be upgraded to allow for the bolt tip to pass through (?) Like Camn, I cleaned the threads and torqued the unsecured bolt on my early Sport and NEVER take it loose, only sliding the fiddly block out for wheel removal. This phrase appears in the the Wheels Off Maintenance Checklist: >Clean the rear brake carrier pin and block; lube lightly and be certain the pin threads are clean, lubed and well torqued. (later V11s have a retaining clip on the inboard side) But I'll add a stronger warning and a link back to this thread. Thanks for posting this and so glad you are ok from the incident, H-E-Ross!

I love the name of your V11 and how you derived it! It is fantastic that you have this motorcycle and are enjoying it. This shows some extraordinary testament to your character!

http://www.speedhut.com/