docc

Good point.

Wait . . . why?

That's easy to check with a series of voltage readings (key off; start; idle; "some" rpm) But I don't think the regulator would shut your bike down. Ignition switch, side stand switch, run switch, relays . . . No doubt, you have the most miles/km on any V11 in the world.

Right? I definitely do not want the threads coming out with the plug!

When your V11 goes from needing a volt meter to a fire extinguisher - you need new friends!

I just did mine up after it sat five or six hours. I suppose I could get it up to temp and recheck them for comparison. Unless someone here just already knows . . .

I know a guy that makes house calls. "Have DVOM - Will Travel"

There's nothing like getting passed by two or three V11 at full chat with their pipes pointed right at you! *BTW, while the "TT" custom is a late frame (long frame) V11, the "carbon bike" is an earlier spine (narrow sump Sport 1100 with 5speeder/cable clutch).

Soooo, having drunk the Kool-Aid (over-and-over), I know that the valves are to be adjusted "stone cold." But, I'm helping out a forum member with a tune-up and there's no opportunity to let the V11 sit that long. I always like to start the tune with a valve adjustment and fresh plugs (which I also like removing from a cold head). Question is, what to expect checking hot valves? Looser when hot? Tighter? By how much?A couple thousandths? More? How long does it take for the motor to cool down enough to be "stone cold?" Hours? Overnight?

Wait,wait,wait a minute here . . . czakky can leave his foxy Lemans Café here with me in Tennessee and it will be closer to the great mountain riding he so loves. What are GREAT friends for, right?

Amen to that. I wish one of you bright, resourceful lads would come up with a simple solution for this. It really bites to "run out" of fuel with 8/10 of a gallon trapped on board.

Talk to Walt - he's a dog-guy (or is it that "Rambo" is a guy-dog?) There may be some local support . . .

The #112 O-ring is so often played up, and so cheap and easy.

Since the exhaust would have to come off to drain the oil, maybe there's no oil in it - saves over twenty pounds right there! I do like the Manx theme.

Does the Guzzi part number for the V11 cam sensor/ TDC sensor/ timing sensor change over the range? The 1999-2001 parts manual shows this: #35 Phase/revolution sensor - - - - - GU01721600

Hah - every V11 is almost sorted!

Also, look for anything dragging on the throttle cable on the left side (wiring, fuel line, ignition wire, or the white adjusting knob under the bell crank). When my throttle starts hanging, I often find the rubber handgrip has pushed outward onto the bar-end weight making a sticky return.

Agreed! The guy wrenches. The guy rides. The guy posts great threads. And he has two V11 ! My hero . . .

Looks good! People ask what I need to do to the Sport when it turns 100,000 miles (95,654 just now). I'm thinking, oh man, could the seat use a re-do!

Roy's tests are always the right thing to do! Otherwise, could this be a symptom of the oh-so-common ignition switch trouble (easy fix) ?

That forward bolt on the passenger peg/exhaust hanger is much longer for the bag spacer. I would think you would be better to source a shorter fastener, maybe 20-25 mm.

+1, and yes the #112 O-ring plays up after a time. Though, often the fasteners can just use a bit of a cinch. Mine also leaked through the wiring.

Easy thing to try first - OMRON: http://www.digikey.com/product-search/en?x=-987&y=-73&lang=en&site=us&KeyWords=z2247-ND

My low fuel lamp has gotten a bit "sluggish." Typically, it's come on (and off) dimly when needing 4.1 US gallons. Now, it's even more dim even at 4.5 low. Maybe it needs a little more "exercise?" (Nine times of ten I fill up before it comes on).

Dry gearbox splines are a known problem with many BMW R motorcycles causing the owners to make sure there is light lubrication on the splines. I've not heard discussion of that here, but it stands to reason. It's still a laborious area to get to, but no major parts involved . . .