docc

We might ought to leave the whole nut thing out of it . . .I think I have a picture of you looking for yours on some Alabama highway . . .

Hmm, I see how that comes out to 49 amps. Doesn't that seem like immense current to energize a solenoid? Seems like you could run the starter motor with that kind of current.

It is certainly worth new relays, especially for your first problem. The second sounds more like mine had been. While the FI and ECU relays fixed mine (for now) ) you may also want to pull the tank to clean, tighten and lubricate connectors. The connectors for the side stand switch could be particularly important for that kind of hiccup. Temporarily bypassing the sidestand switch is a way of seeing if the switch itself could be the culprit (some defeat it, but I rely on mine). A thorough contact clean of the run switch and sidestand switch is a quick and easy job . . .

I'm not at all sure how to convert ohms to amps, but 50 amps seems like a darn high draw for a solenoid (isn't that just a big relay?). After all, what does the starter motor itself draw.

Here is the Foale frame. I'm grateful to Dr. John, DeTomaso and Maserati for pulling a smooth Italian job getting this thing built where we commoners and roustabouts could enjoy it.

I had considered contact bounce as a possibility in the start of my hiccup. As you say, it then worsens the problem and develops to where it occurs without bounce. I don't understand how the Starter Relay NC 87A is under any higher demand than the Headlight Relay NO 87. They flow the same current in the running state. The biggest difference is that the Headlight Relay's coil stays energized while the Starter Relay's coil does not. Having added headlamp and horn relays the greatest current flowing through the factory relays is through the FI Relay for the fuel pump. What changed in the 2004 harness?

I'm feeling small and furry and have a test mule named 'Bella.' . . . I've put a Bosch in the ECU slot since feeling a couple light 'burps' when the Sport is cold and theorizing the ECU relay feeds the FI relay. Otherwise I plan a full connector clean with the tank off this winter. It occurs to me, if the Omrons are used as OEM, what is the application? Perhaps we could simply buy them from the car dealer as relays for the fog lamps of a BMW or the fridge in a Caddy limo?

This is where I got my last few. I believe it is a link to Dennis Kirk, no? They do have free shipping options even on single tires. (Much to my postman's chagrin as he rides HD and is always ribbing me about my "furrin' thang")

That's a good question for Dan. I mentioned the Omron to him as well as the suspect location of the Sport's fuel pump connections.

Ohlins in North America told my Ohlins dealer that this application is "no longer available." Maybe you can still get it in Europe? But you'll have to ask Sven, not Luigi . . .

Count me in. I wonder if giving Dan Prunuske the option of carrying them would yield higher volume for the manufacturer and lower hassle for you. BTW, I see I can get to the fuel pump connections without lifting the tank. One of the rubber boots has slipped off and the connections face forward into the weather. I'll clean them and apply some copper paste thinking that poor connection at the fuel pump may be contributing to the load on the relay. Also, it's important to realize that wiring separate headlamp relays is not to save the relay, but to route the lamp current around the ignition and run switches.

Dan insisted on replacing the relay. You all know he's a great guy! :thumbsup: He is looking into the market for improved relays. I didn't mention the Omron to him but gave him a link to this thread. He said the Bosch had about a 1% failure and the GEI 0.2% (all on Sports). Certainly an increased load on the circuit would tax the relay. I suppose my pump could be on its way out after 54,000 miles. I'll clean those connections when I have the tank off next. The problem had been so random and intermittent I didn't think the TPS and sidestand work actually made it worse. The fact that it stopped immediately when I swapped that relay seems to support that.

Again, not to detract from the thread (sounds like a weak battery), but what is the status of the Omron relays? Ryland would you mind posting on the 'Nasty Hiccup-GEI relay failure" thread?

Thanks, Phil! I thought Ryland was testing some new high zoot relays . . .

I hated to bother Dan with it, but guess I really should let him know. I've been working on this for about 2500 miles ( about a month). I thought I had it sorted before, but never so dramatically as this morning. Having changed plugs, adjusted valves, cleaned connectors, cinched grounds and hots, swapped other relays, cleaned the run switch, cleaned th side stand switch I feel like I'm part of the Sport again. Or at least part of Carl's (kick-a$$) wiring diagram. I see now that there is no relay supplying power to the ignition switch or the run switch. While the power to the lamps (4.68 amps) runs through both the Starter Relay and the Headlamp Relay, I have installed separate relays for both the low and high beam. The relay flowing the most continuous power is, then, the FI relay for the pump (4.7 amps). I'll ping Dan then (got his link handy?)

BJ, The first answer is usually 'relays.' That might even explain the blown fuse. What kind of relays are in the bike now? How many miles on it? How far are you from the Tennessee line at I65?

Yesterday I took the TPS off and found there is access to get contact cleaner in. Of course that means there is access for nastiness to get in as well. After the cleaning and resetting with throttle body balance, the Sport didn't stumble on a 12 mile ride. Last night I unbolted and cleaned the side stand switch, forcing dielectric grease in past the plunger. I'm anxious to ride today, hoping the nasty hiccup is gone . . . (later): Well, the hiccup was awful the first five miles. Even so bad as to go into a sputtering ignition failure then come out of it suddenly. It felt like coil failure, but on both cylinders. I stopped and swapped the FI relay for one of the Bosch I keep for extras. Another 35 miles and the Sport never missed a beat. Plus, by the seat-of-the-pants dyno I'd say she picked up horsepower from 65 to 71 or 2. The GEI have been in the bike 21 months, 13,500 miles. The FI relay flows power to the coils, injectors and the fuel pump. Per Ryland's measures this circuit flows 4.7 amps. What is the status of a replacement relay with a higher rating?

I want to like this bike. I liked the last Quota if it weren't 575 freekin' pounds. Yet, this 'floating panel' design style doesn't sit well with my aerodynamic sense of "if it looks right, it is right." Maybe in all black . . .

The Sport has developed a nasty hiccup with quick throttle changes, like gear shift or pulling off a stop. I've tried a few things already and cleaning the Run Switch made a big difference ( for a while). Maybe she needs a new Run Switch, but I remember a post in the Throttle Position Sensor thread that referenced "cleaning" the TPS. How is this done?

I don't think the piastra colleg did anything for handling. It was tedious to install, but my gearcase has not cracked again. All the bracing, the wider tire, longer frame and even handlebars arrived when Aprilia took over production and responded to all the grousing and griping about the early Sport's vibration and weave. The later Sport certainly has a more plush ride, but all the RedFrame really needed was suspension set-up and different tires. Those Pirelli Dragon Corse sure didn't like high speed straight lines with any cross wind; especially if their pressures were down a bit.

I am hoping for a good, lighter 'Quota.' The Sport has begun to hurt my hands on the longer rides. I don't care for the bikes styled like insects. Maybe the Stelvio will come in as a 'machine' for the rider.

Hmmm, sounds like the 'clutch switch.' The switch itself will lock the starter out. Listen for a little 'click' when pulling the clutch lever in. A good clean and lube of the micro switch itself may be in order. Also ( and perhaps more likely) are the bullet connectors at the left side of the frame under the tank. They do benefit from a good clean (electrical contact cleaner), crimp and lubrication ( copper anti-seize paste) with a weather sealing with heat shrink tubing. Some have found twisting the bars from side to side will stimulate the connectors into starting the bike . . .

The neutral switch can be removed and cleaned. Even before that I would clean, tighten and apply copper antiseize paste to the connector under the boot (behind the starter). Some have reported that running Redline Shockproof in the gearbox has helped the neutral switch. The trouble with the neutral switch theory is that the sidestand switch is an alternate source of current when it is up. Did the starter turn over or no?

With the ignition on and the run switch off there is no power to the coils, injectors, pump, or ECU. It took almost 40 minutes for my Hawker to run down to 11.50 DCv. After 'whacking ' the battery at 5.5-6 amps for an hour or so the sustained voltage seems higher than before. Off to Barber's Vintage event tomorrow. Hope to see some of you there . . .

I was thinking a dealer could check this for you. I'm not sure you can get the information directly.