docc

Whew! I'm dizzy. Some of you know I just installed an Ohlins with #514 spring and TD fork springs 1.0 kg/mm.; I'm 185# in gear. sag: unladen /laden/difference - rear, 8/29/21 (18+3); front, 23/37/14 (18-4). From the ratchet guidelines it appears the rear is too soft and the front too stiff. Yet, still within the +/- 5mm. Also, I found the sag to increase on the front with a couple more gallons of fuel and I do have my forks raised 9mm as I like the weight shifted forward. Just a case study, work in progress . . . + =

Josh set me up with the replacement screws and warned me that taking the old ones out wouldn't be pretty. Looks like the MAPP gas gets 14% hotter (5700F vs 5000F) so I gues it will just take applying the heat longer, maybe 2 minutes instead of a minute and a half.

I only messed with one bolt long enough to see it wasn't going well. I did have visions of screw extractors. I'm not familiar with 'mapp.' Is that propane or is propane not hot enough?

I had heard the brake discs are put on well. And with good reason; you wouldn't want them falling off. Seems like there is probably red Loctite involved. With fresh rotors in hand I tried to loosen the old discs. Even got a fresh SK 5mm drive with good sharp edges. Which only sliced into the fastener that much easier. Added some (propane) heat. Put the wheel back on before I screwed it up entirely. Now what?

With the Guzzi (Mistral) carbon cans and K&N in the stock airbox I didn't have to change anything with the ECU. jrt, you richened the mixture by . . . changing TPS settings?

I just installed the inner side stand spring on my Sport along with the rubber sleeve between the two. Nose2wind had noticed mine was missing. I didn't want to take the chance that the pogo stick might come down at a bad time. I suppose it would be good to have a look at your stands to see if others might be missing the inner spring. Probably only occurs on bikes built after lunch on Friday.

I thought the Rosso Mandello Calve covers ( was that from 2002?) were different from the later red ones. Maybe some one with a RM can pony up here.

Ratch, Looks like your stand has a couple mods. What are those 'tips' over the pork-chop gougers? Have you rebent the curve in the lever then repainted?

Scura pun?

And all this time I thought 'Bumf*ck' was in Egypt. Wouldn't the Scuras all also have the blistering driveline paint?

WS, If you're looking for some fork measurements (the front forks are by marzocchi), here are some numbers based on the early 40mm forks ( I don't know if the later forks were any different on the inside): Fork Woes thread

The suspension is amazing. Last week my wife decided to do a little 2-up riding with me . Cranked up the preload and was really impressed with the Sport's composure ( and her's, too). Haven't had the chance to install the brakes yet. I'm still looking for Nose2wind's Sport to make an honest bike out of my Guzzi. It wasn't a month since they were in the garage together and now this:

My last liter bike weighed 650 pounds (295 kg). Now that was a heavy MF! I have a lighter bike at 359 pounds dry (163 kg), but enjoy the Guzzi much more in real riding past trucks and in gusty weather. Just enough ballast not to be fighting the elements. Not a Tiny Dancer though.

I can say the 1091-29 spring on my Ohlins pegged my sag just about right for my 185 ponds in gear (29mm laden). Maybe a little too stiff for some. So, Josh, you're respringing the Spot1100? Seems like that early White Power stuff is mighty good, but we've never talked sag numbers . . .

Clean the starter, check connections.

This is an important and interesting topic. Unmaintained rear brakes, resting the foot on the brake, or building a heavy brake pedal all seem to be extraordinarily bad ideas. FWIW I bled my rear on the Sport every one to three years and only this last time took it off the bike and rotated the bleeder to the top. I was really pleasantly surprised at all the air that came out. Definately this is the right way to do it along with the more frequent service interval. Of course, the pedals do brake easily if the bike tips to the right. I rode mine home from its mishap with the front brakes only. NOTE: The moderator has left the building.

The key is not so much the fairing itself , but how it mounts. The RedFrames headlamp and instruments mount to the forks whereas the later bikes (different) headlamp and (different) instruments mount to the frame setting them much further forward than the earlier style.

I seem to remember, rather vaguely, that the 2 characters after ZGUKRAKR are the year of manufacture. '8Y' was 2000, '11' is 2001. This is from distant memory so let's see if we can get some one in the know to chime in. You're sure the 'x1' is not '11?'

Yeah, sorry. It just seems you two spend a lot of ink going at one another rather than the issue at times. I don't think you're breaking any rules ( I'm not sure there are any), yet it does get annoying when the tone remains somewhat condescending. Maybe I misread as tone is an awkward thing to convey in this medium. I've learned a lot from both of you and do appreciate the effort that goes into the input. It's sad to say in way, but my Sport would not be running it weren't for this forum.

You promise some pictures, yes?

The Nuts and Bolts of V11 LeMans.com has been an 'unmoderated' forum for a long time. I'm having trouble keeping track of which threads to avoid. Usually when two posers, err, I meant 'posters' , bat a thread back and forth like badminton, it's a fair indication the rest of us are 'uninvited.' It's high time you guys took your pi&&ing contest somewhere else. Both of you have had much to offer the rest of us poor ba$tard$ trying to keep these funky bikes running. Yet, is there not some sense of reasonable decorum that suggests when 'enough is enough?'

I think Pasotibbs is on the right track here. This sounds like one of the boots jumped track or possibly split. Have a look between each head and the throttle body to see if one has slid back. To check for cracks you can spray the intake boot with a solvent like contact cleaner or WD40 while idling and listen for a change in the idle. A couple wraps of electrical tape make a pretty good fix while waiting for the boots if you need them. Plugs should be changed at the 6000 mile service interval. Sounds like you're due for all that as well and will have a much happier and smoother V11!

Raz, I looked back through the thread but couldn't find which new tensioner you installed. Valtec or Stucchi? Also, again, how many miles on your Sport?

Raz, Congratulations! Ratchethack won't be far behind. Let's all hope he gets the same good result!

There are several good threads on this subject. Definately there have been a few '03 bikes with this trouble. Read up on the repair:Spring Reprise Also some good photos and discussion:Gearbox Advice Finally, for more info:Shift Return Spring Poll