gstallons

Oh yeah.... My knees hurt so much I could sit or stand. Any movement at all , walking or the transition from sitting to standing was more than I wanted. Now I am going to try kneeling & squatting. I cannot tell you how good it feels to NOT hurt. BTW . The MDs I went to told me I would just have to live with it.

After two years of constant pain my knees do not hurt any more. After having a 15 minute discussion w/my chiropractor I allowed him to "work" on my knees . He did this same procedure about 5 yrs a go and I thought it was going to kill me and I wouldn't let him do it any more. Well , this time , it worked. It has been one month and I can walk w/no pain . I knew I was fixed when I slept all night. I have waited one month to tell this just to make sure this was not just an ease in pain. This message is for any of you that have any pains or problems , find you a good chiropractor and have thorough discussions about your problems . Go frequently and do whatever exercises and changes he recommends.

These should be a push fit and take no lubrication . The best part of the whole R&R procedure.

This looks like the best way to go !

I had a 93 3.0 SHO 5 spd. I am glad/sad I finally blew it up. It was gonna get me killed !

It is to lessen the strain on the driveline . And Docc's comment is true too.

A spherical rod end does rotate and swivel but has no give. To properly in stall the factory reaction rod , you would want to install it and tighten both mounting fasteners ( that will tighten the center of the rubber bushings ) at ride height . This will be when your weight is on the bike. As far as rubber or solid bushings , it is a free country .

Some Torx sockets will work in helping extracting socket head screws or USS in place of metric Allen head screws .

Yes , there needs to be cushion in this arm . A rigid link is not a good deal .

You could....and you would have a stiff arm linkage for this to work with / against . Think about that.

Be sure to purchase a rotor removal tool ! Also , as far as what type of gooey to use on gaskets , buy a lot of different products and experiment on things... FWIW. I bought 10 different brands of Dry Film Graphite spray before I found one that suited me.

Congratulations on your find !

Just enough ( either Hylomar or Coppercoat or the other ) on both sides . The Hylomar gets my nod because if the part has to be removed the gasket will not be damaged or stick to the mating surface.

I'm lazy....what is the part # ?

Hondabond is ( I think ) a gasket eliminator. My vote is Hylomar or CopperCoat on the gasket surface .

Please tell us more about what you found ?????

Didn't Jimi Hendrix use Marshall amps ?

Probably so . All bearings that are produced are metric . The 25x52x15 part # is also the bearing dimensions . I.D , O.D. & width . The 6205-2Rs should have those dimension.

! NZ dollar is $0.68 US dollar .

That strong looking rubber mount is a pu$$y . Mine has been off for a long time.

When you go for bearings....drop the 6 from the bearing prefix . It is a light duty version of the bearing. Instead of 6204 use 204 . Check them at your vendor to verify this,

It has been 45 years ago this weekend that The Allman Brothers played @ Fillmore East and recorded probably the greatest live album of all time. I think it's time to put the CDs in and crank it up !

I don't know how many are made of stainless steel . A lot of stainless is brittle and it will crack . The big drawback !

These things need a 30a Maxi fuse / holder on this circuit .

Best plate yet !