gstallons

Bravery is when you fininsh without a hospital visit , insanity is when you do finish with the hospital visit........

The permanent magnet motors cost VERY little to manufacture. The problem is the bonding material letting go that holds the magnet to the case and the magnet moves, falls off or get knocked loose from the case from foriegn material. Heat , petroleum products or debris getting in the starter case causes this.

Oh Yeah !

There are some snippets of truth here but many errors. True there is no back EMF from the stationary motor but the resistance is not zero. I've seen 300A quoted for these starter motors so the resistance is V/I ~1/30 ohm. This circuit is not fused. The solenoid is a capable of switching this 300A and thus requires the order of 10A to operate. This is probably fused but there is no reason this should blow the fuse except for an incorrectly chosen fuse. Take you ohm meter and see what you come up with. BTW I am not going to get in a pissing contest with you .

Something to practice with. Go to your local golf course. Ride your bike out into a sandtrap. Do a spinout , kill the engine then get off the bike and push it out of the trap then the rest of the way off the course to a paved surface. Then put the bike on the sidestand, walk away from the bike, turn around and ask yourself, "Am I really up to this" ?

Something to practice with. Go to your local golf course. Ride your bike out into a sandtrap. Do a spinout , kill the engine then get off the bike and push it out of the trap then the rest of the way off the course to a paved surface. Then put the bike on the sidestand, walk away from the bike, turn around and ask yourself, "Am I really up to this" ?

The fuse is blowing with the no-start condition because the starter has no EMF* nor is it generating CEMF** and thus it becomes a 0 resistance circuit and blows the fuse. Everything is working to the point it is getting to the motor part of the starter. You can disassemble the starter but (might) not see anything wrong. If there is a starter rebuilder in your area contact him to see if he can help. Ask him if he will repair it and let you watch. Please explain you just want him to explain what is being done, why and "theory of operation" of the starter. He will probably be happy to help and feel good that someone simply "wants to know" ....... *Electromotive Force **Counter Electromotive Force

Your starter (when it is not turning) has no EMF and or CEMF and becomes a short to ground and cooks the fuse. You can disassemble the starter yourself (you will probably not be able to see anything wrong)or contact a starter rebuilder in your area & see if he will repair it for you. You could ask if he will let you watch & give you a tutorial on what he is doing,why and explain how things work.

You will have to align the front/rear wheels. To do this you will have to have 2 others to help you. You will need to use 2 8' flourescent light bulbs placing one on each side of the rear tire. Then have the front forks pointing straight ahead. Check the clearance detween each side of the front tires to the light bulb. Then move the adjustment screws one way or the other til the front tire is centralized. I would set the preload of the adjusting screw to 1/2 turn after the slack is removed then torque the lock nuts to 50 ft.lb. I don't know what that is in N.m...

I was too lazy to look for this. Maybe this is the concept bike any V11 offroader wannabe can aspire for.........

At least you didn't let your bike sit for a week after ordering the spring to find this out.......

I think Ruth needs to look at a Qota & keep any V11 on the highway.

Yeow, it has a hefty price tag!

Good to have you back. I wondered where you went.

I sat on one in at a dealership in L'ville and think I could get used to it really quick. If I ever get rich enough to sing "Johnny Paycheck" to everyone ,I will get one and hit the road...........

Are jam & jami the same?

If it only does this one day of the year, count your blessings !

Who ever installs carburetors on this bike must understand there will be NO timing advance whatsoever. It will have base timing only. A person would hopefully not install a carb. setup on their car because it had some glitches they couldn't fix or wouldn't pay to get fixed.

#1 You need to set the valves, throttle bodies,TPS, etc. #2 Purchase a PowerCommander from a dealer/installer & have it mapped for your altitude & humidity. #3 You will go back in time 100 yrs. to go to carbs.

I think you can buy them here in the States.I wouldn't order them from Italy. You will save the duty (which comes in the mail about 3 mo. later) of about $400.00.

I ordered some Friday.

That is a LIE. It was a bar bottle.

Antonio, You need to get rid of the script or the pic..... Yes, get rid of the script.

It is imperative to start out with both throttle plates to be at the same angle for base idle.This syncronization has nothing to do with idle speed. This is done with the idle speed control screw. You control the small difference in cylinder contribution with the air bypass screws.