HaydnR

What do I think? Pure Guzzi porn! I agree with Skeeve, Daytona RS prices plus some.

All that I can say about this is my base TPS setting is about 250mV, not 150, and I've had my A/F ratio monitored on a dyno and it is right where it should be. You've probably seen this thread before but here's where the "Micha method" was first discussed on this forum: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=13188&hl=Micha I would only advocate it for people like me who can't get their bikes to run right using the posted method. I agree the 250mv will make the bike run better using the stock map as it is designed to run on the lean side for emissions. By having the base reference set higher you will achieve a richer mix.

I've been following this thread for a while and whilst I can see in some circumstances the simplified method will work in others it will not. When I am sober I will explain further but in short the tps is a base reference for the fueling and ignition map. If this is not calibrated (zero'd) correctly all the other adjustments may as well be guess work , 520mv,530mv,400mv 600mv at idle is completely irrelevant as the idle can then be incorrectly set (fooled) by altering the air bleed and co trim and once off idle the fuel map will be followed correctly so long as the base setting (150mv) is correct. The fuel map (fuel to air ratio) can be tricked if the tps base setting is altered eg.if the base setting is set high say 300mv fully closed the ecu (map) will deliver more fuel with the butterfly (air) at a lesser degree of opening. With Mr bronze's problems I would guess that it could be ignition related, coils,leads, caps or plugs breaking down with heat.

Hi Mo and welcome. I would be more worried about acquiring a new (to you) v11 and not posting any pictures . You have no doubt learnt a lot from speaking to BFG as he has been unlucky enough to have had every known problem and more with his Guzzi's. If it were the original clutch I would be worried and change it asap due to the inevitable failure. I've not heard of replacement RAM clutches being as unreliable but if planning on keeping the bike for a long time clocking up lots of miles I would be on the lookout for a twin plate setup. Its all down to personal choice and how much you worry.

Condolences, Rest In Peace. His Facebook cover photos sums it up: http://www.facebook.com/slavomir.musilek

http://www.motoricambionline.com/images/20120228133637-downloadcatalogpdf.pdf Parts on pages 59 and 66 Also on stein-dinse catalogue v11 01-02 http://www.stein-dinse.biz/eliste/?sid=4747gc5a94cg7194dd4gb31deaefb&lg=en

Eh?

mmmm Guzzi porn

I'm not posting here.

Yes thermistor part no. GU01103090

The sport 1100i you won't find much difference but the 4v ohc motor found in the daytona/centaro is a completely different beast. There are a few here that are/have building specials using this engine.

Are you sure that the constant glowing isn't another warning lamp (neutral) shining through? The in tank pump models use a thermistor for the low fuel sensor no. 4 in the diagram

http://www.motostrada.co.uk/bikeDetail.asp?cat1=2&prod=794&make=&model=&filter=&records=2

ti ky 3 is the post code area that I live in, ky is for kirkcaldy but covers most of the kingdom of fife, the 3 narrows the area to my town burntisland.

I live in KY3 but I don't think it's anywhere near Kentucky

It's alive DSCF3273 by HaydnR, on Flickr

A lot of what you get out of a club can depend on what you are prepared to put into it and what your expectations are. I have found the MGCGB a very comfortable place and I have made a lot of very good friends without pretence and had great times with them. I also really enjoy being part of this forum, being concentrated on mainly one model I find it a huge resource for v11 community.

Have you changed brand of oil, looks like both the inner and outer seal are leaking. Is the pinion seal leaking too for a full house?

I take it that you have checked that the breather is not blocked and that the leak is definitely from the big seal ?

Google gu04211600 http://www.stein-dinse.biz/Complete-partlist/Clutch-gear::5094.html The single plater complete depth is the same but the outer splined part is not as deep as the twin plater hub,see petes pics of the three hubs. The twin plate v11 hub the outer splined part is about half the complete depth.

Photos from Stein Dinse The Griso/Norge/Breva clutch hub is different: gu05081830 V11/6 speed gu04211600 5 speed deep spline gu30081810-Z 5 speed shallow spline gu14081811-Z As for using used parts I don't see a problem, so long as the used parts are in good condition. It would be very expensive if you had to replace the flywheel and clutch hub on every clutch change. I got Harry's new clutch hub from teo lamers as stein dinse were out of stock.also if you haven't got one you will need a new tabbed washer for behind the locknut. HMB and Teo lamers do a reasonable priced socket (30 ish euro) for the km5 locknut.

I need to investigate the dampness, I reckon that it is transmission fluid which has combined with the friction material dust making an efficient grinding paste causing the wear on the components, but it hasn't leaked enough to cause the clutch to slip or drip from the housing. The rear seal, if I can't pull it with a couple of seal picks that I have I will screw a couple of self tapping screws into the seal and pry it out using them being careful not to damage the mating surfaces. I sent the ebay guy a link to the dimensions of the km5 nut but had no response as yet. I was trying to work out from parts diagrams if the new 8v single plate clutch could fit but got lost when trying to see how the clutch fits the input shaft on the gearbox but at 400 euro I will stick with the twin plate. I'm enjoying following your progress also.

I didn't think about the pushrod seala, I was going to replace the crank and input shaft seals. I had ordered the clutch kit from sd (stein dinse) but questioned the hub supplied in the kit and they have replied saying that it is not the correct hub which will be 140 euro alone! The locknut had not been hacked (at that point), are you looking at the burr on the dlocating slot on the shaft? I have been scouring the net for a suitable tool for the km05 locknut, stein dinse do them at about 35 euro which isn't too bad, a damn sight better than the +130 euro wanted from most places which is ok if you are doing a load of them. There is a chap on uk ebay which can make up a tool at a reasonable cost, me being Mr impatient ground down a £3, 28mm socket which done the job. Using a rattle gun I didnt need to lock the shaft. Skf km lock nut chart clickable for dimensions (clutch hub nut/input shaft is km5): http://www.skf.com/skf/productcatalogue/jsp/viewers/productTableViewer.jsp?presentationType=3&lang=en&tableName=1_16_3 I realised that this thread should be in the tech section after posting, so if a mod would like to do the honours.

Hello all I'm looking for your opinions on this clutch/flywheel. It is from a V11 Rosso Corsa (25000 miles) Although the flywheel is quite notched there were no problems with the clutch operation before the engine ate itself. I will need new friction plates as one of the linings has un-bonded, does anyone know the wear limit as these measure 7.5mm thick? I'm ordering the kit which includes 2x friction plates, intermediate plate and hub (any issues with sd-tec plates?) The pressure plate seems fine. Is it possible that the v11 flywheel being lighter was made from a softer material? I found a daytona flywheel for sale which has slight marks from the pressure and intermediate plate but no where near as bad. H Daytona flywheel

There is also: http://www.allbikeengineering.co.uk/html/forks.html which has a good reputation.I have no personal experience though.