Lucky Phil

I'm about to burst your bubble Scud and put this to bed forever and add to the data base. I have 2 second hand and one brand new (never seen fuel) later tanks and 1 brand new (never seen fuel) old style tanks and the original on my bike. I have just laid the tape measure on my original tank and brand new late tank and i can tell you they are dimensionally very different. I'll post some images with tape measures attached so we can align with your frame length images. My feeling is that you could fit an earlier tank to a later frame but not the other way around without losing steering lock. My bike now has the modified fwd mounts fitted which reduces my steering lock anyway and if I fit the later type tank I'd end up with pretty much zero lock.So comparatively you loose quite an amount of fork leg to tank clearance on full lock when you fit the later tank to the earlier frame and from my experience of my bike with std mounts I only had 5mm clearance tank to fork leg anyway on full lock. So ctr of aft mount bolt to fwd edge of tank....old style 620mm, new 660mm EDIT.....if you look at the front edge of the fwd mount you can see where the difference is. Note the extra length from the fwd tank mount forward edge to the fwd tank section where the tape is resting. It appears there is an extra 40mm here but the forward projections are about the same. I believe they have lengthened the top of the tank 40mm and moved the cap opening forward 20mm but the tank length overall is the same give or take. Note how in these images how the front forward projections seem to sweep back a lot more on the green tank than the grey later tank. This is in line with the overall length being roughly the same but the top face being extended forward to close the gap to the steering head around where the breather banjo is on the upper frame. Looks like scudd may be correct although I'd be interested to see if the later tank on the earlier frame limits the steering lock. As I said the later tank wont work with my new setup. Dont be fooled by the camera angle, centre of aft mount hole to ctr of cap, old tank 295mm, new tank style 315mm 315mm aft ctr mount hole to cap ctr. Once again camera angle. Fwd tank edge in the ctr(not the projecting sides) to cap ctr 315mm, old style tank 295mm Old style fwd ctr edge to cap ctr 295mm The dimensions from the back of the fwd mounts to the forward most edge of the tanks are virtually the same. So its like they sliced the ctr filler cap section out of the tank fwd and aft and added two 20mm plugs to lengthen it. One fwd and one aft of the filler cap. Just like when they stretch the fuselage of a heavy jet Full sized images are in my album. Ciao

Yes it looks a nice unit. The only Guzzi's that came with Carrillos as std fitment were the Centauro's, Daytonas and MGS-01 as far as I know. Even then they used the rods with the larger big end bolts than std Carrillos. I just think advertising something should be accurate is all. Ciao

No one here drinks Fosters, horrible stuff. We only make it for foreigners. Ciao

Productive day today, got the tank mount finished. Titanium bolts and bushes except for the top ones on the rubber mounts which I made from Ally. I used 18mm hex so I can hold it with a wrench when tightening up the mount bolts. I couldn't buy any hex Ti bar. The four lock nuts are just that lock nuts only. I tapped the vertical plates for the 4 6mm bolts. The whole thing is a bit as they say "component dense" but there you go. Battery holder fitted with ti bolts. Such a great material. Elastic,tough,light and weather resistant. Swing arm fitted. I removed the horrid huger nuts and used rubber blanks instead. Fully adjustable Wilbers shock. Better quality than an OEM Ohlins and cheaper as well. Swing arm other side. Ciao

Lovely bike, Carrillo dont make Titanium rods though. Steel or Aluminium only as far as I was aware so I checked their website to see if they had diversified. No mention of Titanium rods though. Ciao

Not yet docc but we're close. Limited time at present but you know that's often a good thing with this sort of project as it gives you time to consider things. These projects where you are modifying stuff take a lot of working out if you want it to come out looking professional plus I like the slow and considered approach. Standard restorations are easy because all the design work has been done for you its just a matter of getting the finishing work in order and assembling all the components in sequence. The last big issue is steering stops which means pulling the tripples etc. Ciao

02 was a changeover from the old style plate with the roll pin over travel stop for the ratchet arm to the eccentric adjustable stop. Does your plate have a 10mm nut on the external side about half way up on the rear edge? If so its the later style 01 20 16 41 plate. Ciao

Bit pricey but if you need. https://www.ebay.com.au/itm/2004-03-05-Moto-Guzzi-V11-Cafe-Sport-OEM-Front-Timing-Cover-Case-Bolts-Assembly/333526403269?hash=item4da7b908c5:g:SJsAAOSwADReVLoc Ciao

Got the oil cooler lines squared away today. I'll tell you how straight forward they are to make after I start the engine and there's no leaks. A pair of 18" cable cutters and dedicated hyd fitting vice jaws make things a lot easier. Note the "black" heat shrink. I know someone that probably would have gone red. Ciao

Like docc said JB weld or Devcon aluminium. Its risky weld repairing porosity as it can end up just dissolving in front of the torch. It may just be on the surface anyway, hard to tell unless you get it x-rayed or ultrasonic tested. Ciao

How deep are the porosity pockets? Ciao

Global warming! Ciao

Here's one, Mark Seymour has been dining out on this song for 35 years. You have no idea how massively popular this song is in Australia to this day. Good live version with Eddie Vedder Ciao

Yep black gators would have been good Chuck Mine are bigger than yours Ciao

Ha yes Chuck, too much red. I'm trying to decide whether painting the bevel box a the dark colour from the silver will exaggerate its bulk too much. I think the silver against the silver wheel helps hide the size a bit. No fancy logo's on it for me either, dont want the eye drawn to it at all. Ciao

Yes tubular structures are hard to paint without missing sections. I once painted my Ducati TT2 race bike frame and it was even more difficult. Esp when you do the second coat,its easy to have some colour on there but you miss the second coat and the primer is just showing through. Ciao