Lucky Phil

You need to do a fuel pressure check. Its a hassle but the components you need arent expensive to make up a test tool. Really everyone that runs modern EFI systems and wants to do home maintenance should have one these days, its part of the basic equipment needed. It doesnt matter which way the fuel lines run, whatever uses the least amount of hose and has the simplest routing. Mine does left first then right then reg back into tank. If the fuel pressure is low then the engine will often idle and rev fine unloaded but fall on its face when you try and ride it. Edit..... I just reread your first post......hows the timing sensor gap? Did you check it when you replaced the sensor? Ciao

You are correct, the Stucchi's are great both for performance and durability. It's the FBF that crack. Ciao

I'm told NTSC stands for, Normally Terrible Sometimes Crap. Is that any help:) Ciao

fuel pump,regulator, collapsed fuel hose internally. Is the filter installed the right way around? Ciao

I have 2 of the twist screw type petcocks and both are not smooth in operation. Its worth having one fitted as others have pointed out for tank removal. The original electric Guzzi one is just a failure waiting to happen for mine. Ciao

Why shut the manual tap off at all? mine stays open all the time as any fuel supply to an EFI fuel pump normally does. The only reason motorcycles were ever fitted with vacuum fuel taps and the silly Guzzi electronic fuel tap was for US laws that mandated the fuel supply is isolated in the event of the fuel tank flying off in an accident and liberating from the bike. We all no doubt have seen many times fuel tanks flying accross the sky off the bike during an accident. Sometimes I cant walk the streets for fuel tanks flying about post accidents. Ciao

I'm just trying to remember if mine has this 2000rpm cough. Most injection systems shut the fuel off completely on the overrun (throttle shut) but reintroduce fuel back in at zero throttle at around this rpm so the engine doesnt stall when you come to a stop and pull the clutch in. Some bikes like the old K100rs BMW you could easily feel it a very slight pop and surge as the Kjetronic system opened up the injectors at a very low duty cycle in anticipation of the clutch being pulled and idle speed being required. Is this what you are feeling? I'm sure from memory I can feel a slight bit of this on my V11. Ciao

Nice site, usefull info there. Thanks. Ciao

I have 4 bikes, 2 fitted with Wilbers shocks (GSXR-1000 and the V11 sport) and 2 fitted with Ohlins ( 1198 with the high spect TTX and the 1000ss with the production Ohlins) If your looking for a V11 replacement I can recommend the Wilbers and they taylor it to you needs. From memory the std rear shock is 310mm long, cant remember the sprig rate though. Ciao

A pair of Carrillo rods, around $600US and a good second hand crank, probably another $500 and a few hundred for the rebalance. So for around 1300 big ones you get an upgrade and less rotating mass for livelyer performance. Ciao

I agree with Chuck, forget balancing the TB's the problem has occured with the tank removal and install. Check the throttle cable isnt hanging up or you have disturbed the throttle bodies on the rubber manifold and introduced an air leak or a crushed fuel hose to the L/H TB or the connector/wiring to the L/H injector. Look at whats possibly been disturbed closely. Ciao

I don't think your clutch issue is to do with the current clutch not being able to handle your current torque or power, it's something else. If it was too weak to handle the output it would be slipping in the higher gears at peak torque. Ciao

That TPS "budge" from the regulator connection was a great find! I added it to the Tank Off Maintenance Checklist and watch mine carefully. I could not see my TPS fault watching millivolt changes while opening and closing the TPS. I had to disconnect it and read Ohms (I can't remember what scale: milliOhms?) When I saw it *jump* at the same opening point every time, I knew the TPS was shot. I have found fuel selection makes an enormous difference in hiccuping. I can no longer find non-ethanol fuel above 90 US Anti-Knock Index, but am having great results with US Shell 93 AKI "V-Power Nitro+". When I run other fuels, even at that AKI, I get more hiccups. (I am given to understand that US 93 =~ 98 Euro fuel?) Yes docc US 93 is 98ron Ciao

Belt and braces Pete. Ciao

Impressive. Ciao

An interesting site for those inclined towards the engineering stuff. The link in particular is vindication of my long held view that spring lock washers are total rubbish ( click on the video test link) The rest of the site has some really interesting fastener information and worth a study. Yes, I dont have a life:) http://www.boltscience.com/pages/helicalspringwashers.htm Ciao

Agostinis, nice quality, good fit, not too loud nice brushed SS finish. About the same sound and volume as Conti's on a Bevel Ducati but without the sharpness, more mellow due to the Guzzi's softer cam profile. https://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?app=gallery&image=1981 Had a set of reverse cone Mistrals and they were a bit loud and had an annoying whistle on the overrun, but looked a little better. Ciao

Now ther's a geographical contrast docc from the previous image of SoCal to central Kentucky. Both look nice in their own individual way. Ciao

Another thing to consider is the Green bikes forks were different to the next model I believe in that the axle on the later threaded into the L/H fork lower where the earlier bikes the axle slid through and had a big nut holding the front together. Dont know if it makes a difference or not. Ciao

Yes it is, the Stucci is the best cross over although this one has been beaten on for I suspect centrestand clearance. Ciao

Yes Italian translation. It could also be linked to how the assembly line process works. So if for the purposes of production assembly ease they have an air operated tool that installs and torques the axle from the bevel box side in one operation and they hold the nut with a spanner or other tool then the manual writer will use that discription and value even if it doesnt apply in the non production world. Ciao

Yes Chuck thats true. Although lockwire for instance isnt to stop a bolt coming loose, its to stop it falling out of the hole and fowling other stuff if it does. The reasons a bolt in a clamping application loosens is because. A....it was undertorqued. B....it was of insufficient strength and stretched under load to its yield point but (not necessarily) to failure point thus losing its tension. C..it was subject to fretting of the threads usually due to resonant vibration and therefore lost its tension/stretch due to wearing threads. D..the bolt used was too short and had insufficient stretch for the applied torque. In all these cases lockwire wont prevent the bolt from losing its clamping force and so its basically useless even if its still in the hole. The previous flight control nut example doesnt apply to the axle nut as most flight control bolt and nut applications such as this are rod end and/or clevis and the bolts are primarily taking shear and rotational loads and sometimes adequate bolt stretch is hard to achieve so more elaborate locking requirements are needed such as nylock nuts, pinning, locking tabs or a combination. A correctly torqued axle nut doesnt require a locking facility in my opinion. I've never seen one come loose that was correctly torqued in over 50 years. Honda once said that the reason they lockwired bolts on their race bikes wasnt to do with bolt retention but because they believed no one would be stupid enough to lockwire a bolt that wasnt tightened up in the first place. Ciao

My Greeny now has the adjustable small eccentric pin and the banana plate via the Guzzi upgrade kit. The banana plate doesnt make a difference worth the updating in my view. Dont know why they bothered really. Thats Guzzi though updating stuff that doesnt need to be and ignoring stuff that does. Bit like developing hydraulic lifters that dont require adjusting for an engine with the most easily adjustable valves clearances in piston engine history:) Ciao

Axle "Locking" nuts are really not required. My bike is fitted with Titanium non locking nuts front and rear with no issues as have been a hell of a lot of production motorcycles over the years including every Ducati I've ever owned including race bikes that have competed in the IOM. Its just another analy retentitive Guzzi idea thats not really necessary. Ciao

Docc as Chuck pointed out you can buy sleeves to press over the damaged surface to provide a new surface for the seal to run on. If the damage isnt too deep you may be able to get the nose ground and the seal still have enough tension to do its job. Seals of this size generally have a couple of mm interference on the sealing surface so a 10 or 15 thou regrind wont matter if thats what it takes to get the damage cleaned up. Ciao