Lucky Phil

Here's a twin plate 6 speed assy. the single plate one looks the same except for the depth of the splined section front to rear. Here's the single plater Ciao

I didnt remove mine from the gearbox Pete but it looks like its the same as the single plater and I cant see any reason for it to be different. Famous last words of course. To me it looks like the single plater is just a shorter version of the twin with all the material taken off the front face. Ciao

The only difference I can see between the twin plate and single plate gearbox input spline drive that bolts to the gearbox input shaft is the depth (front to back dimension) twin plate looks like maybe 25mm of spline that interfaces with the clutch friction plates and the single plater maybe 20mm. So why not just surface grind that additional 5mm off the fwd face and bring the splined length fwd to aft doen to the single plate dimension. If it was softer material you could just chuck it up in the lathe and face it off but it will be too hard for that. Ciao

Why not just grind down the twin plate gearbox input spline? Now I've had my twin plate gearbox off the engine it looks to me like its a fairly simple task to surface grind it back to the dimensions of the single plate unit. Ciao

In the very early days of the Ducati 851 used to connect the intake manifold to the reg but they quickly dropped the practice. It was obviously designed to regulate fuel pressure to manifold intake pressure and bikes that used the reg sense port had different chips. I suspect in the end it didn't have enough impact on the fuelling to persist with. When I upgraded my 888 race bike to the quad injectors I also went to the vented reg. Ciao

I bought my first pair in 1986 for a DB1 Bimota. Catch up with Sandy who owns Staintune one or twice a year, last time was a just few months ago. Ciao

Riding schools,sheez. I've heard of this technique they pedal and wondered. So they want you to stop at the traffic lights/intersection in gear looking in your mirrors and if it looks like you're going to get rear ended then accelerate through the red light or stop sign into the middle of a busy intersection to avoid getting rear ended. Sounds totally illogical to me and relies on you being the first vehicle at the lights/intersection of course. Cant say I'm a fan of the stop and re start the engine technique either. Engines like to stay running unless its going to be idling for an extended period of time in a traffic jam. Ciao

You shouldn't be doing this with any clutch, wet,dry, car or motorcycle. It's a bad habit you should rid yourself of. Unnecessarily wears the throw out bearing, the engine thrust bearing, the pilot bearing( automotive) the clutch friction plate and flywheel faces/steel plates. Not good under any circumstances. Ciao

3 bar, around 45 psi Ciao

The only parts that can be removed are the filter screen the attaching nut and the circlip on the end, you cant access the internals without machining/removing the crimped over top edge of the alloy operating knob. I have one of these pieces of total rubbish on the bench at the moment. I have 2 of these,one failed ( wouldnt shut off even with pliers) so I fitted the spare and its crap also. One issue is the crimped edge of the operating nut rubs on the tap body, this I rectified on the failed unit and it works much more smoothly. The major issue seems to be the seals actually swell when they contact fuel as the failed unit now its dried out for months seems to be smoother in operation and does actually close off fully now. Long story short they are rubbish quality. Ciao

Thanks for the suggestions but they're a bit bigger than I was considering. I'm going to go with this and a pair of 90 degree AN-6 5/16 barb fittings. 55mm long and 32mm dia. Ciao

Home of the Tennessee turnover eh, sounds vaguely sexual, combine with the Spanish reacharound ? no not really? Ciao

No docc, no pods, I hate pods. I may need to lose the airbox snorkels as there is so little real estate even with the tank lifted. I need to move the regulator under the tank which is not my preference but with the oil cooler and hoses finding a spot for the reg on the front will mean long clumsy brackets that will be prone to cracking. So I've removed the fuel filter and am currently looking for a much smaller option there and with the tank raised there is more room and air circulation under the tank so the reg should be fine. I've seen Ducati regs mounted in much worse standard locations over the years. I'm looking for an efi fuel filter 50mm dia with 8mm/5/16 barbs that turn 90 degrees on each end. Maximum overall width 130mm. Its out there somewhere just need to find it. The other issue is the holes in the airbox for the Centauro inlet trumpets dont line up so I might either raise the hole by 10mm and plastic weld the bottom of the hole again or modify the inlet trumpets to the correct angle. Dont know if a Centauro airbox would work better and some stuff like intake trumpets are very hard to find so cutting them up is not my favourite option. Things to muse on. BTW the clutch seems to work:) Ciao

Forget pull the front wheel, it would pull the girls. Ciao

Carb cleaner and a small dia pipe cleaner. Ciao

Ciao

I had a set of the cast ones on my bike for quite a while. The added benefit is they reduce the valve clatter quite a bit. Ciao

So I've mocked up the bodywork on the V11 to see what the re-positioning of the tank looks like compared to the side panels and tail piece. The front of the tank needs to be raised 40mm, a little less if you jack up the rear of the tank. My bike had the rear of the tank shimmed up by 5 mm previously by me so the tank stopped rubbing on the side covers. What you see here is whats probably the final solution. rear raised 12 mm and the front 40mm. The down side is that it reduces the steering lock quite a bit, not terminally but more than you'd prefer. The limiting factor is the rear lower edge of the upper tripple clamp impinging on the tank at full lock. I can scollope out some on each side of the clamp without compromising strength and looks to gain a little back and the further back you have the tank the better. I'll still need to modify the stops with adjustment bolts though. The important lines of the top of the tank looks ok to me and the lower tank rear corner to side cover and tail unit interface look fine to me still. Ciao

Isnt the 15M open loop and the 15RC closed loop? Ciao

Yes 2 valve Grisso covers docc, although the ones in the image have had some slots machined in them. Std rocker gaskets although I used the special metal based ones ones Pete Roper sent me. I wouldn't go back to the old type.Cant remember the name of them,its in a thread of mine somewhere. Ciao