Lucky Phil

Valve to piston should be around 1.5mm on the inlet and 2mm on the exhaust. Ciao

A boroscope wont tell you if the valve is slightly bent. It only has to be bent 0.005" or so at the sealing face to stop it seating. Ciao

Good idea with the borescope. I just ordered one. Yeah, it was compression stroke. Checked with the timing marks and by watching the valves. Sent from my SAMSUNG-SM-G930A using Tapatalk Are you sure they have been hitting? Why dont you just to a valve to piston clearance check and see what you have. Ciao

I hate to admit this docc but its possible. When I put my Ducati 888 engine together quite a while back with the aggressive "G" inlet cams and didnt check the valve to piston clearance. Ran it in at the track and had to pull the heads again for a slight coolant weep (common on these as race motors) and noticed the inlets had been just touching the piston. Not enough to damage or anything just enough to mark the pocket slightly. Pistons out and pockets machined. Ciao

Did you have the throttle wide open during the comp test? Was the engine at operating temp? 108psi is very low and 130 isnt exactly up there either. Of equal importance is also how the engine makes its final compression numbers. A good engine should give you the maximum reading in 2 or maybe 3 steps, if it creeps up there in 4 or more steps thats not great. Pleased you found the rattling ball cause....great info that. Ciao

There comes a point when you step over a line............congrats, you're now looking back at that line:) Ciao

The fwd "style line"is a majorly important feature for mine. Tank looks nicely made but I love the shape of the original so the style line and a flush filler cap are a must. Cant stand those old pommy 50's sports car fillers on later model vehicles esp the smaller ones. They look like a growth more than a filler cap. I'm sure the tank guy could make one with a flush cap though. Ciao

Sorry can't recall. They were 12volt used on the 1980s bikes like Milles, and my Factory TT2 race bike. White in colour they were. Ciao

Yes.. I just thought it *might* be germane to the discussion. For what ever reason, we have a points ignition and computer ignition doing the same thing. Running a wire directly from that set of points to the coil cured it. I *assumed* there was something going on in the harness, but have no clue what it was.I remember Chuck Ducati coils used to melt into a sticky puddle if the ignition switch was left on without the engine running due to the coils being continuously powered. Could you have had an ignition switch contact not releasing or relay not relaxing causing the same thing? Ciao

I can't imagine it would be a loose valve seat, Guzzies aren't prone to them. If however one was loose it should show up in wildly varying valve clearances on the affected valve. So if you check the clearances cold and put it through a couple of heat cycles checking the clearances after each one and if the clearances are consistent then it won't be a seat. The theory being if the seat is moving around in the head when it's hot it should grab it again when cold. You wouldn't expect a loose seat to return to the fully seated position in the head every time when it cooled down. But like the others guys mentioned check all the chassis stuff first and the standard exhaust cross over as well if one is still fitted. Harmonics is weird stuff indeed. Ciao

Makes perfect sense. However, as you can hear on the "revving" video, the sound is hard to hear at 2000rpm and impossible at 3000. Well, I don't know if you can roll along under load on your V11 at 2000rpm, but I can't without creating all kinds of other noises (rattles on the bike, in the drivetrain etc). It does not rattle more when I close the throttle. Before replacing the main bearing, the oil pressure was measured with a semi-warm engine: 4,5bar straight after tickover. After that I even replaced the main bearing, causing it only to get better... I'm not worried about oil pressure issues at all. The only things I can really think of are still an issue with the timing chain/tensioner (is that possible when new?), but for me it sounds too loud and metallic for that. Therefore... valve train. The rocker arms moving side to side is of course something I can check relatively easily (run her with the valve covers off). Some questions: - Should the rocker arms even come off the "lower" side (against the spring) or stay firmly into place? - Could a worn valve stem cause a sound like this? - Could a loose valve seat cause a sound like this? Without trying to be a @#$$#! about this you've spent more time posting about this than pulling the heads and checking for guide wear and guide looseness in the head.If you want closure pull and strip the heads, it's a Saturday afternoon job over a few beers, then you'll know:) Ciao

Personally I'd be checking the timing first. Should take about 5 minutes. Ciao

Is the reluctor wheel indexed corectly? I think its possible for the drive pin to be 180 deg out on the camshaft. Although I might be dreaming. Ciao

I'll try a little starting fluid to see what happens. The timing should be alright, as it was checked by a professional Guzzi mech...at least I'm hoping that it is. I'd hate to have to remove the engine again. Forget the starting fluid, if you need to use that stuff at this point you really do have an issue. Ciao

Valve timing? Fresh fuel? New plugs? Ciao

Remember its made in Italy, the neutral light lives an independant life of its own and answers to no one:) Ciao

So let me see Chuck, you're in the tent and the bikes outside in the frost and cold. Shame on you Chuck, shame. Ciao

Rear brake pads. Ciao

I think he has mis stated the problem. Seems the clutch isnt disengaging due to the pushrod from the single plate clutch now being too short. Ciao

I've twice run out of fuel in the same long downhill run to a country back road T intersection give way sign. Both times I've rolled through turning left onto the uphill road and she's fired up again and got me to the top of the hill to the gas station over the crest. They dont call me Lucky Phil for no reason Ciao

I've used this method to remove crank spigot bearing bushes but I bet it wont remove a swingarm bearing using a hammer. They are way tighter than some drill motor bearing in an alloy housing. The hydraulic method shown MAY work in a shop press though. Ciao

I have run Mobil1 0W-40 in pretty much everything I own ( 4 bikes and 3 cars) including the V11 for over 10 years. I buy iy in 20 litre drums. Works well. The Guzzi has virtually zero blowby and the throttle bodies and filter box are oil free and has adequate zink levels. These days 20W-50 oil is too heavy. Oil technology has moved on in the last 20 years. Ciao

There are many engines that are notorious for guide wear but the valves and seats seem to be ok. Guzzi Daytona engines, 70's Triumph twins, Ducatis of various models and earas.K-lines are NOT some band aid fix but a genuine improvement. As I said I've seen them used in race engines and road engines successfully for years. As for valve seats, well pretty much all manufacturers dont offer seats as a replacement part and unless you pay to have the seats made from scratch and installed at vast expense ( yes I know someone that does this) then you're not going to pay that kind of money unless is absolutely necessary. Ciao

Yes they do. Ciao

Yep, or buy your own kit and do it at home. Ciao That seems ambitious for most of us with simple garage tools? Thats all you need to use the kit, a hand held drill and a cheap pneumatic rivet gun. Ciao