Lucky Phil

This is why I never run anything other than clear scratch pads. Even if you can't use an identically shaped replacement it doesn't matter as there will be no fade line. I guess you could always source some material and make the shape to suit the fade lines. Ciao

How much fuel in the tank? Full? sounds like the breather hose is restricted/crimped and return fuel is pressurising the tank. Ciao

Hard to say about the pinging but if your shifting into 6th gear at anything below 100kph/60mph then you're looking for trouble in that department. Ciao

Thats why you buy adjustable ones. Ciao

You will probably only be able to get 1st and neutral without turning the back wheel to line up the dogs on the gears and drive sleeves. Find the neutral position on the selector assy and move all the drive sleeves in the gearbox to the mid position between the gears and dry fit the cover and make sure it seats. Then carefully remove and apply sealant and install. make sure the cover seats by hand, don't use the screws to "pull it into the seated position" Read this. Ciao

It's not only the tread that wears and degrades but the carcase as well. New tyres feel and steer nicely because the carcase isn't fatigued and degraded through millions of flex cycles and is it's true shape and stiffness. Ciao

All true. A 10 min warmup!! thats not good for fuel economy. Remember as I've mentioned before and most now know stopping and starting the engine especially from cold chews fuel in a major way due to the cold enrichment mapping. So 10 cold starts commuting to work and back will see the fuel economy dip alarmingly on that alone never mind the suburban traffic. Also every time you shut it down and start it hot it also goes onto the rich 3986 revolutions start mapping. So a 10 cold start week commuting with a few hot starts thrown in there for buying milk or whatever and the economy is going to suffer big time. Ciao

Well docc it's 3984 to be precise. Ciao

4000 revolutions docc. Ciao

Just throw the thing in a small jewellers ultrasonic bath to clean it. Ciao

So the issue was the electric fuel tap connector wasn't connected correctly? Ciao

The left handlebar lever isn't a choke and doesn't change the mixture. Ciao

You can always just put it in gear and rotate the engine docc. Ciao

Have you had the fuel tap out and checked the fuel filter on the tap? How much fuel is in the tank? The last 3 litres are unusable by and large and your symptoms are also aligned with running out of fuel. Spluttering on the flat and running again if you point it up hill when the fuel runs back to the fuel tap pickup. +1 on the water as well. Ciao

I've been using one of these for about 3 years. You use a 1/2" knuckle bar to actuate the stand. Easy and safe, unlike trying to use your foot. Ciao

Not from where I'm sitting:( Ciao

The gearbox output shaft has around 1-1.5mm end float, thats normal. The output shaft bearing floats in the end cover. Ciao

They are like this std. Ciao

Yea you need to check them about every 40,000klms! My 2.3L turbo 4 cylinder car has NO valve clearance check schedule, ever. As for water cooling, if you want high specific power then you're stuck with water cooling. Ciao

Not as bad as you think docc. I owned a Ducati ST2 for a few years that I'd bought off a friend and he's always complained about it's vague steering and asked me to take it for a ride and see what I thought. I suspected it was an unevenly worn front tyre. Anyway I ended up buying it from him and used it to commute to work for a bit and it started to display varying front brake lever free play. Come to a stop at the lights after a straight road and a previous straight stop and the lever was fine. After a few bends and use the brake and lots of lever free play. Had me a bit confused until I pulled the front wheel to replace the tyre and noticed with the callipers off the wheel had about 1-2mm of lateral movement at the rim when you tried to twist the wheel. The bearings were badly worn but not falling apart. 1-2mm at the rim is probably only .2 or.3mm in the bearing which means it's totally gone of course but not spitting balls out or anything. Anyway new front tyre and wheel bearings the steering's perfect and the lever free play back to normal. I'd say 90% of the steering issues and 100% of the brake problem was wheel bearings. Badly shot rear wheel bearings on a V11 Sport = clattery off beat vibration/feeling through either foot peg on a floating throttle. Ciao

Variable brake lever freeplay is also a symptom of bad wheel bearings. The wheel moving around pushes the pads back into the callipers during cornering. Ciao

It's not called "cobbling stuff together" when you're improving the OEM by 200%, it's called "enhancing". Why would you want plug and play garbage? Ciao

Yes I agree and that's because you've compromised the length of the secondaries to "get the look". Overly long secondaries. Ciao

Personally I think they look "less than optimal" Doesn't suit the style of the bike. The V11 is a "GT" style bike, a sporty all rounder and those pipes are for a "track weapon" type of bike and mimicking the Ducati 916. I'm always amazed that people think a particular style of major component can be swapped onto another bike as if a motorcycle is just a bunch of separately styled sub assemblies combined together rather than a harmonious integrated whole. Besides all that if you fit those then you may as well take the pillion pegs off it because it's totally impractical for a pillion now. Ciao