moto fugazzi

I picked up a cig lighter socket from Advance Auto, and Wal-Mart has them as well (supposedly waterproof) for under $10. Use a fuse (I have mine tapped into a fuze block), and mine is zip-tied to the front right turn signal stalk in an out of the way place. Very similar to this: http://www.autozone.com/lighters/cigarette-lighter-and-accessories/help-weatherproof-exterior-accessory-power-outlet/439363_0_0/ Ken

I'd recommend some waterproof VM's. This would be cool, if you have room for it: http://www.amazon.com/Charger-Voltmeter-Digital-Marine-Carvan/dp/B00JUI7VW8/ref=sr_1_5?ie=UTF8&qid=1422741483&sr=8-5&keywords=waterproof+voltmeter Ken

Hammers? People own more than one? I normally use whatever is lying around-like a ratchet, screwdriver handle, piece of wood, or a stale doughnut... Nice job on the rebuild! Ken

That looks really nice! What does powder coating a few smaller pieces like that cost, if you don't mind me asking? Ken

I need to give Kiwi Roy credit for telling me to tap into pin 87 on the ECU a while back when I was having issues. Thanks again, Kiwi Roy! Ken

I noticed 2 broken welds on mine last year on the day I was going to take my bike to Minneapolis. It forced me to take the car instead. I had them welded this year for a whopping cost of $12. Ken

Pic #3

3 mounting points. I just installed mine today, after I repainted it. 1. Exhaust mount 2. Bolts on the tail light-make sure your bolts are long enough as it goes on after the tail light nuts are on 3. Passenger footrest bracket. The bolt towards the front of the bike, and you need a spacer. Ken

Do as the other suggested, then get the necessary cables for Guzzidiag ( http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&hl=guzzidiag ).Seems like my hiccup went away after my dealer bumped up the CO setting on my bike, and that can be done with Guzzidiag. The proper way to set CO, is with a sniffer, but if you don't have access to one, you could increase CO by 5 if it still hiccups after the valve adjustments, TPS reset, etc. My theory is that from what I'm told, CO mainly affects the fuel map from 0-3K RPM. That 3K cutoff seems to be where we have the hiccup issues, and it seems like bumping up the CO a bit helps that transition where the CO trim starts to cut out and the regular fuel map takes over…I could be totally wrong with this theory. I know others have said that they eliminated the hiccups by changing the crossover pipe to either a Mistral or Stucchi. Hope this helps, Ken

I just took off the Kuryakyn from my V7C, and installed a cheap version (from ebay) of the version you can buy on ADV Monster. The Kuryakyn is just way too bright at night. The ADV Monster version is impossible to read in direct sunlight, but not too bright at night. The VM on my V7C is wired to the battery via a Fuzeblock, and the VM on my V11 is tapped into the ECU relay so I can read what voltage is going to the ECU. ADV Monster VM: http://stores.advmonster.com/accessories/ Attached is a pic of the ADV Monster VM (red), and the cheap VM from ebay. They're fairly close in rating: Ken

I just took off the Kuryakyn from my V7C, and installed a cheap version ( blue LCD, from ebay) of the version you can buy on ADV Monster. The Kuryakyn is just way too bright at night. The ADV Monster version is impossible to read in direct sunlight, but not too bright at night. The VM on my V7C is wired to the battery via a Fuzeblock, and the VM on my V11 is tapped into the ECU relay so I can read what voltage is going to the ECU. http://stores.advmonster.com/accessories/ Ken

The 2001's have different size bearings (I.D. is different), so the wheels aren't reversible. I found this out the hard way when I bought new bearings, but MG Cycle sent the proper RS bearing to correct this. I believe 2002 or 2003 is when they switched to the same bearing on each side, but the axles and spacers are different, IIRC. I suppose you could swap the L&R bearings, but you might as well have the shop put the tire on the proper way at no charge, as it would be less work. Might as well do it the right way.Their excuse of the previous tire being on backwards is lame, and they should just do it properly. I assume you're paying them to do it the right way, and not the wrong way? I like asking the question: "Is this your best work"? That usually shuts people up... Ken

I have 90 degree valve stems on mine, and the dealer ordered them for me at about $15 each. Basically, there's 2 sizes-8 or 10mm (IIRC), and I forgot which size these wheels take, as it was about 3 years ago. Ken

My first thought after hearing it through crappy laptop speakers is an exhaust leak. Make sure the exhaust system is tight, and put some smoke next to the gaskets to see if there is a leak. Let's hope it's something as simple as that. Ken

A sound file would be very helpful. Is it a low pitch or a high pitch knock? What oil did you use on the last oil change (just out of curiosity)? Ken

I've been thinking about dual plugs for a while now. Last summer, I talked to someone that had Mike Rich pistons in his V11 Sport, and he said the compression was a bit higher, AND his pre-ignition or pinging went away as well. I'm not sure if those pistons are domed differently or more efficiently , or what exactly caused the pinging to stop. For some reason, I thought one of the V11 variants had dual pugged heads. If they do, you could probably utilize that ignition map to some extent. Ken

Do you have a Lambda (O2) sensor in yours? The 2000-2001 do not. If you do, you might be able to use Guzzidiag to turn off your sensor, and I think it "should" work. You may have to contact Paul Daytona to verify. Check here: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=17865&hl=guzzidiag After using a PCIII and an AFR meter, I've been able to create a very good working map for my bike. It takes quite a bit of data logging and tweaking of maps, but it was well worth it in the end. I really wanted the PCV/Autotune to work for me, but it ended up being nothing but problems. Maybe Todd has it figured out now, but I have no idea. You may also be able to get similar results by just increasing CO a bit, but I would verify it with your local dealer or auto mechanic that has a CO sniffer. Hope this helps and keep us posted. Ken

The dealer set it to +10. Guzzi calls for CO of 2.0 PPM, and my dealer likes to set it at 4PPM, which ended up at +10. That also got rid of the 3k stumble or hiccup that most of our bikes have or had. I recently dropped it to +6 when the temps dropped, as my bike runs very rich in these WI winters. Ken

I bought a PC-V/autotune/reflash from Todd a few years ago, and we couldn't get it to work right. I think the issue was when he turned off the CO on the reflash, and I later found out it was set to -74. I sent my ECU to him a few times for adjustments, and I could still not get the bike to run right. I ended up buying another stock ECU, and Todd let me return the PC-V setup, and sent me a used PCIII and a refund on the difference that he owed me. After the issues with Todd's reflash and PC-V, I took my bike to my dealer (incredible dealer in northern IL), and that's when we installed the original ECU, and found out that the CO was set to -74. He couldn't adjust the CO with either PADS or Axone, but I was able to do it with VDST software that I brought along. We then adjusted the CO with his CO sniffer, and the bike ran much better-nearly flawless. I have since bought an AFR meter, and built my own maps with the PCIII, and my bike runs great. Todd bent over backwards to help me out, but we just couldn't get PC-V running properly. I honestly think it was from his reflash. I think we have about 60 emails back and for about the issues, as well as sending my ECU back and forth for reflashing to try to make it work. It was a waste of an entire summer. Hope this info helps, and feel free to ask more questions. Ken

I have a metal Bosch 8" on my 2001 V11S. Ken

2009 V7 Classic with tubeless Breva wheels.

Don't fix it until it's broken It's a pity that we can't make such great sentences in German. Hubert ... what might also answer the other question further above: don't retorque the heads Just curious about the "don't retorque the heads" comment. Why not? Ken

I'm assuming you have the same problem that I had with my 2001 V11S, but I have a BMW fairing on mine. At highway speeds, the wind gets right under your helmet, and it feels like it wants to rip your head off? I added a Laminar Lip to mine (not sure if they make one for your bike), and it made things much better. I have a few different helmets (one of them almost too tight), and had the same issues before adding the LL. Hope this helps, Ken

I guess what I was trying to say is that I was going to use disconnect the reference wire, and use the black wire (on the charge light side once disconnected) to go to #86 of the relay, and connect #87 to the black reference wire (on the regulator side). I already have a no load power wire from the battery (fused) that would connect to #30 of the relay. It's from the headlight relay that used to be in the headlight bucket that was removed a while ago. Make sense? I'm assuming the the black wire you call the reference wire is attached to the same SAE connector as the white wire.

So it looks like there's no perfect solution. I do have a voltmeter from ADVMonster, but it's almost impossible to read during the day (too dim). I did add another voltmeter mounted to my fairing that's much brighter during the day, so as long as I'm paying attention, I shouldn't have any issues. My charge light with the Energia does seem to work now. It doesn't go on when I turn on the ignition unless the voltage is low. It went on a few times last night when I was at stop lights and I had my heated grips on. I was planning a trip from Milwaukee to Minneapolis next week, and I didn't want to get stranded in the middle of nowhere, like I did last year when I had a flat on my V7C (that was quite the adventure). I have since converted that bike to tubeless. Ken