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footgoose

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Posts posted by footgoose

  1. lol. thankfully I can laugh at this. My "at speed" ride put me at the ton+, at which time the kickstand switch wire, which had become loose, blew back to the head pipe, melted the insulation, and shorted the circuit. My rest stop and hot pipe let the wire drop away allowing a restart, only to blow back and touch the now bare wire to pipe. Since the pipe had cooled, the melted insulation now stuck the wire to the pipe. Routed in such a way to be mostly out of sight. I saw it looking under from the other side. Lucky me. Funnier yet, I wasn't even working on it. Just walking past, I thought... what the hell can it be??, dropped to my knees and ... holy crap!

    So, thanks all. I have learned much. I will (hopefully) save all recommended maintenance/improvements till winter. 

    First job.... eliminate kick "safety" switch.

    What's the best shop manual for my impending purchase?

  2. So I've finally had some time to start looking. I pulled the dash apart, and the ign switch, and all "looks" solid. I then got a 15a breaker for the fuse slot  (probably should have done this first) and turned on the key. Dash lights are on for 1 second with a flicker, and pop. I did this several times while pulling the other fuses. Then I realize the fuel pump had never tried to start. I could be imagining, but the wires at the pump seemed warm. I elected to stop while I was behind and search the forum. Came up with this thread for testing fuel pump, etc. I am very shaky electric-wise, (obvious) but think this be the direction of my pursuit. Any thoughts? Can I pull the pump and just bench test directly?

     

    http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=18763&hl=%20test%20%20fuel%20%20pump&page=1

     

    I'm kinda glad it seems such a dead short. Makes me feel more confident of actually finding it. My greatest fear is the problem stealth correcting, and not knowing what it was.

  3. I wish I had something to add re: replacement options. I'm following so I can learn the best answer for the future Tenni. What I can add is some experience with owning/riding both bikes- a single, and a double. I agree with scud, camn, and mznyc re: impressions. Side by side and parked, they seem really close in finger pull, I couldn't really tell. So I hooked up a basic 50# lift scale and unscientifically got 11-14# read for the LM, and surprisingly got 13-16# for the Tenni. A very crude device, but still, definitely a pound or 2 harder to pull.

     

    Riding is a different story. Flywheel failure aside, the Tenni is more fun to operate. "lighter" in this instance, doesn't just mean strength of grip. Revs, disengage, engage, taken together as a whole experience has a quicker, snappy feel. More positive. Just a bit more of how a motorcycle should be. Which is essentially how I describe a V11LM. As scud says, one struggles to come up with good words to describe it, but in a perfect world I want a single plate that won't fail. Looking forward to your results, Paradiso.

    • Like 1
  4. thanks gents. work has got me too busy. It will take me a week or two to do the list you've given me. I will complete that and check back in with whatever I find. when I think back to the incident, vibration seems to be a factor.

  5. During a fast ride yesterday, the Tenni (at speed) popped a 15a fuse labled with the switch icon. 4th back, I think. I assume this is the ignition switch circuit. Replaced fuse, popped again in 3 min, popped again in 3 seconds. Something's amiss, trailer home, thanks to good friends. I've done my forum searches and can't pull up anything specific to that fuse, but have made a list to check the usual related stuff, ie grounds, relay block connections, loose wires etc. Before I begin, I wanted to check here to see if it's a scenario anyone else has experienced. She has 11k miles and it's the first electrical problem. The only mods are BMC, FBF cross, PCIII. & dyno'd 2k mi. ago. I did recently go through the guages and replaced some bulbs, the idiot bulb carrier, and the rubber dash mounts. I don't see alot going wrong there, but.....? I also had the coil mounts loose to re-do the breather tube. thanks

  6. Let me ease the suffering... you'll never get it.....  And now for a bit of hope. I bought mine new in '03 and was told the certificate was issued by MG to the original buyer, after confirmation from the selling dealer. It never happened. MG was sold and bought and sold, so to speak, and eventually MG USA ceased to exist. (I was told). Over 2 years past, I was on a blog (maybe this one, don't remember) complaining about my treatment by MG, (I had other complaints) when a Guzzisti in Italy read my plight and pm'd me. He said he would put in a word with some people he knew, something about an Italian MG owners club. Within 2 weeks I was contacted by the lovely Stefania, of MG Italy. In computer translated English, she assured me I would receive my due. 3 weeks later, I had it. Nearly three years after buying the bike. I did not have to prove original purchase, though I could have. I still do not have my original owners manual. I never got my bubbled paint compensation. MGUSA will not answer any emails. I don't know why they even have it.

    I named my Tenni .. Stefania, of course.

    • Like 3
  7. FWIW, I updated the Tenni Registry. You can view the registry made by Van on this topic's first page, If you have changes or additional info, just reply to this topic and Van or I can edit.

    ebay has a few listings for what seems to be a parted out Tenni :(http://www.ebay.com/itm/361197598075?_trksid=p2060778.m1438.l2648&ssPageName=STRK%3AMEBIDX%3AITthe upper clamp is listed. it looks to me to be 129, but could be an 8, or 3, or 0. there are a few other parts listed fwiw. sad but inevitable loss.

  8. The Tenni is pretty much the same as all '02 LeMans, with a few parts switched out. (alm flywheel/single plate clutch, tiNitride coated forks, cf wrapped mufflers, extra seat) The ltd ed, and colors set it apart and are the reason for increased desirability, imo. In the US, I'd say a std LM in reasonably good cond is valued at 4 to 6k, depending on motivations. Add 20 - 25% for an equal Tenni. For the high end, I'd want the suede seat and certificate. 'Someday' all spine frame LM's will be more desirable, and Tenni Ed will no doubt increase a bit faster. I wouldn't look for increased values anytime soon..... hope I'm wrong:)

  9. hi Zooter, welcome. post a pic when you can. To each his own re: flywheel worries. Personally, I am not. I don't doubt that it has happened, nor do I argue the strength of alm vs. steel, but more curious as to actual numbers and circumstances of the incidents. At this point, I will look into replacing mine if I ever open her up for another reason.

  10. I'm new to site.

    Had my tenni for about 8 years. Love it.

    Purchased from motomecca 3 legend X Dorset. It's been around ireland towing a trailer.

    I used regularly to commute be for I recently rretired.now used for pleasure riding around the beautiful county Cornwall. It's a delite to ride around the winding lanes.

     

     

    Tony, I once had the good fortune to come down your way in a car out of Nottingham. We made it to Plymouth, then up to Tintagel and back north.  God.. the Ales, the cheese, the pasty's, the shellfish, strawberries & cream, the roads.  You're in Heaven on a Goose.

  11. Hi. I'm trying to put my tenni on the register. How do I do this.

    tony w-h

     

    Sent from my MediaPad using Tapatalk 2

     

     

    welcome Tony, the registry is in limbo at the moment. just post a note with Tenni number and a general location. maybe how you came about getting the bike, photo, interesting tid bits.... someone may update the registry at some point.?.?

     

    congratulations on the Tenni!

  12. that system sounds great. can't wait to see it up. thanks for the effort. It will be interesting to see a break down of the variants, which were limited ed, which were numbered, what special crap came with them.  good luck-gods speed chamberlin

  13. congrats on #129 !!

     

    yes, please update the registry. folks will think green is out of favor ;) ....If not a fixture @V11LM.com, then where? Maybe while we wait on the "garage thing" to materialize, we could continue with what we have? Especially if we're keeping the thread anyway. Are we having trouble finding someone willing to do the work? I would volunteer, but have no idea how to proceed.

     

    cheers

  14. fwiw, I switched to syn in my '00 BMW K1200rs at 12kmi. Granted, the "flying brick" flat 4cyl has all 4 leaning left when put on the side stand. After a hot ride and an overnight on the side stand, I got a LOT of smoke that diminished over 15-20 mi. I hadn't noticed this before switching. My dealer tech told me, in convincing sciencebabble, that syn was not necessarily the best option for a motor designed for dino oil. He felt the syn got past rings and seals somewhat easier than mineral. He admitted it was his learned hunch, but often times his related service problems were improved/corrected by switching back. I switched back and my "side stand smoking" was reduced to "slight".  Don't want to start a syn vs dino debate as I'm no pro on the subject, and since I'm no pro, that experience was enough for me to stick to the recommended lubes.

  15. Hi. I gave just bought a Tenni. The bike no longer has its certificate or brown seat sadly. I'm not sure what number it is. The engine has a plate reading 017593. I see from the registry that 17 was a Scottish bike, which this one is. So I am thinking that maybe they are all stamped ***593? Maybe not. Bike is now back in Scotland.

     

     

    #121 engine ***506. congrats on the Tenni

  16. Sean, it seems that if the bolt hole is now half the depth it was (if I read you right) and the threads don't want to re-engage, and nothing has moved, then possibly you've got the bolt mixed up with another that was laying around, or it's the wrong hole. sorry, sounds ridiculous, but in my haste sometimes, that the kind of stuff happens to me :P

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