Scud

Some of us hoarders probably have a spare ignition switch. If a local hoarder is not willing to part with one, I'm pretty sure that I have one I could ship from the US.

You could easily pay $7,000 for an unmodified bike in this condition, then drop $2,000 finding a perfect set of Titanium cans, HB painted to match bags and racks, a Russel saddle, and the other mods. For somebody who wants this combination of features, the price is reasonable. If you don't want all the extras, maybe you don't like the price.

Yeah... California, Nevada, the Stelvio National Park, and LeMans are gonna have to think of something quick.

Good to know... gonna get one on order for my Stelvio.

Upper Sump Gasket: Moto Guzzi P/N 01003650 Replacement Part: Moto Guzzi P/N B063861 Difference from original: Metal reinforced gasket as used on 1400 motors. Prevents blowouts of paper gasket that can reduce oil pressure with an internal (hard to detect) oil leak. As suggested by @Rolf Halvorsen

@Rolf Halvorsen have you put one in a V11? It looks like you laid the metal gasket on top of a paper one for the V11 and the holes align perfectly. Would you mind re-posting this advice in the Encyclopedia of Compatible Parts topic?

I chased a low pressure situation for a while on a 2003 LeMans. Turned out that part of the gasket (as pictured in Rolf's post) was missing. This internal leak allowed oil to escape but maintained low pressure - the light would sometimes come on at idle, but would always go out with a blip of the throttle. It ran like that for a long time without any failure, but I did find excessive wear on the washers on the rocker-arm shafts. The problem with the warning light is that it only tells you about dangerously low pressure. If you care for a lengthly and somewhat philosophical exchange about this issue, see my topic about it at: "Oil Pressure vs. Oil Flow"

Do you have an added oil pressure gauge that shows the pressure, or just the standard oil warning light on the dash? (It sounds like you have just the light or you would have told us the oil pressure in numbers). And do you mean you rode the bike for 10 minutes with the oil pressure warning light on? And if so, did it eventually go out? Assuming your oil level is correct and your filter is still on tight, you might want to test the actual oil pressure with an external gauge.

Those covers started off kind of orange anyway, right? Like the Rosso Corsa and Nero Corsa that don't match anything else on the bike (porkchops were darker red).

That's a lot of miles on a Ski-doo. I am intrigued by the snow-bike kits that put tracks and skis on dirt-bikes.

I had an MRA briefly. It was easier to tuck under the wind. But for most riding I sit more upright and it put the wind at my helmet level. I went back to the stock height, which kept the wind lower. For reference, I am 6'0" tall.

You can put in another hydraulic hose and position the bleeder valve much higher. This is what all the CARC bikes do. Here is a link to the part:

When police first started using BMWs I had a friend who worked at Irv Seaver BMW (Orange County, CA). They were constantly repairing the back ends of the BMWs because the police on Harleys would crash into them when the BMWs stopped too fast.

Haha... Captain Obvious needs zip ties. For the coil mounting, I too re-glued mine, but I also put zip-ties around the bracket and the subframe that keep pressure on the rubber dampers, as I'm sure the glue will fail again.

While that doesn't seem very friendly, there is legal need to maintain trademarks and not let them slip into the public domain. I would hope there are licensing terms where a shop can use Moto Guzzi in signage or advertising without claiming a business name that includes "derivative" or "confusingly similar" mark.

I've done this job several times, simply relying on feel for that torque value. All you need is enough tension to stop the pin from backing out.

$350 seems about right if it includes labor to remove, clean, and reinstall with new gaskets. But it's too much for a trip to the powder-coater with clean parts in hand. Anyways, it's obvious that the owner(s) cared about the bike. Nice set of Mistrals, the repaint seems good. I'd probably want the stock airbox back on. You could definitely spend $5,000 elsewhere and get a lot less for you money.

^ yeah it made a huge difference. And I will feel better about her running around CA Central Coast in it. She took my wife's Subaru Crosstrek back to school while I took time to get her truck sorted out. Hoping to swap back this weekend.

Toyota Tundras... had three of them. Bought a new Limited Crew Cab in 2005, which lasted until an accident a few years ago (still sore about that guy that lost control and hit my truck in a driveway...) Have had two others, both used with over 200,000 miles. Still have the 2006 SR5 Crew Cab that my daughter drives. Spent last weekend on my back replacing the steering rack, struts, shocks, tie-rods, sway bar bushings, rotors, calipers, etc. I think everything I took out was original parts (except brake rotors). Almost ready for another 200,000 miles.

Website says: "The kit is available also to fit on 1100 Sport, V11 and Centauro." That would be a fabulous upgrade on a Centauro, which already has the fancy motor like a Daytona. Or you could buy a V11 that somebody made a mess of. Would seem a shame to convert a solid 1100 Sport or a well-sorted V11.

just connected:

same...

Agreed. And the Ballabio has the odd feature that the flyscreen is frame-mounted, not bar-mounted. IMO a tiny windscreen should move with the bars.

ding ding ding... winner. The best bike is the one you want to ride the most. And personally, I would take the LeMans over the Ballabio. It's so much more distinctive, and it's really not that much sportier than the Ballabio. You can always raise the bars a bit if you feel the need.

True, here is the topic I created for it. @Jake it sounds like the problem appeared somewhat suddenly after a reasonable period of normal operation. To me, this suggests that you either have a big gap somewhere, or a failed pump. My bet would be on the gap. First suspect would be the oil filter - but for it to drop to zero, whatever is going on there should be totally obvious. The problem I has was a bit of gasket missing - that reduced the pressure, but did not drop it to zero. It would have to be a mighty-big bit of missing gasket to drop the pressure to zero.