Scud

I forget what size that is, but I bought a set of large hex wrenches, one of which fits the front axle and the rear axle. It simplifies rear-wheel removal, because you can apply force in both directions - sort of rocking the axle while sliding it out. Front solid axle is threaded, so ratchet works fine. You gonna lube the steering bearings while you're in there?

I agree with SP - no need to tear down the rear end to change the hydraulic clutch line. But you might want to invest in some short wrenches that are easier to move around in there. Removing the clutch slave cylinder is a different story... and I bet that's what you read about. For your future reference: It's best to separate the two halves of the driveshaft when you remove the final drive - just be sure the shaft is properly aligned when you put it back together. I've never bothered with the precise measurements when installing a swingarm. There's not much room to adjust anyway. I just visually center it, snug everything up and make sure there is still free movement of the swingarm before (and after) applying final torque. Then connect the shock. Inner fender - 6 little screws, you'll figure that out the first time you try. Since the bike is new to you, this might be a good time to lube the three points on the driveshaft (junction and two U-joints).

Hmmm... seems like MG Cycle, and now Harpers, and I'm sure others to follow are just having springs made up since Moto Guzzi is no longer making them. False alarm... nothing more to see here... except those little plastic T's may be hard to find in future.

Thanks Chuck - I bought springs from MG Cycle before, but I had an order going with Harpers already. Interesting that MG Cycle's description calls it an "updated shift return spring." Maybe they've already had some made too.

While getting my order together with Harpers and checking status, learned about 2 parts that are no longer available from Moto Guzzi. One trivial, one important. The trivial one - the plastic T that holds all the warning lights. You know that white T-shaped things that can't seem to hold the threaded inserts and just crumbles when you take it apart? No more of those... This is not too much trouble as they can be repaired with various epoxies, bondo, glues, etc. and they don't have to look good since they are hidden inside the instrument cluster. The important one - the shift pawl spring. I had ordered a full set of springs for the pre-selector on my project. And when I called recently, I learned that the lack of a pawl spring was holding up my whole order. I happened to talk to Curtis Harper - he said that as soon as he learned they were discontinued he set about having a replacement made. I'm sure most of us have a spare spring tucked away somewhere already. But Harpers will have aftermarket springs in stock soon.

I've heard the same - that non-Ohlins, more durable seals don't perform as well. I don't have any experience with it but I just figured I would stay with Ohlins parts and supplies throughout. The fork seals on mine sat unused since new - then I put close to 12,000 miles on in 2 years. I detected only a faint weeping, but went for the full rebuild anyway due to age. My shock seal gave up while I was painting the drivetrain and had easy access (I thought that was courteous of her...). Have you ever serviced the shock?

The Ballabio, Cafe Sport, and Coppa Italia all have headlights and flyscreens that are frame-mounted - so they stick out more than the Scura, whose headlight and flyscreen are mounted to the triple-clamps. I like her better with the LeMans fairing.

The patient appears to be a little chicken. Here's what the Ohlins fork-cap tool looks like. Also pictured is a rod that has threads on the inside to connect to, and remove, the damper rods from the forks. Again - happy to loan these to you.

Looking good - so the 2002 red from the Red and Grey LeMans was the same as the red used on the Coppa Italia? It looks close, if not identical, in the picture.

No, sorry - my order hasn't arrived yet. And I'm going to be away early next week.

Ok, thanks again. I'm surprised at the lack of info on this site. Probably everyone already knows how to do it, but I'm going to do a blind leading the blind thread. This way, if I'm screwing up, somebody will save me, and everybody will learn. Cool - I watched some youtube videos on rebuilding Ohlins forks. I know there are some good threads here on doing the Marzocchis. I was thinking about doing my own rebuild - I called Dan Kyle and said "Sell me everything I need to rebuild my forks." That's how I got the seals and oil (and special tool). But I ended up just taking the forks and supplies to an Ohlins specialist at Moto Forza (local Ducati dealer). Next time, I'll follow your instructions.

Well, we do have a good Guzzi dealer in downtown San Diego - GP Motorcycles. And there are others in Orange and Los Angeles County to the North. It's just a question of whether the Northern part of San Diego County can support a Guzzi dealer. GP and Moto Forza both carry Ducati and Husqvarna.

Our 2011 Mazda CX-9 is on it's way out after 80,000 miles with nothing needed but oil changes, tires, brakes, and some recall thing that the dealer handled. We got a 2017 Subaru Forester Limited. Very nicely equipped, good fuel economy, full-time AWD, continuously variable transmission, all kinds of cool stuff. That's our new family car - and I won't have to touch it for at least 2 years because all maintenance is included for 2 years. I went to pick up some rubber floor mats at the Subaru dealer today. And there was a nice silver V7 in the lot. I was wearing a Moto Guzzi T-shirt. Had a nice chat with the V7 owner, who is super happy with his V7 - but mad at the Escondido dealer for no longer carrying Moto Guzzi. It's a long-term BMW dealer, and they had Guzzi only for a short time. I hope Moto Forza, the Ducati/Husqvarna dealer around the corner picks up Guzzi instead.

Just get the Ohlins fluid. It says part number 1309-01.

I bought a used Harbor Freight one that I found on Craigslist. This was my first time having a lift. As Chuck described, it's possible to load the bike without a helper - but mine had a modified wheel chock (by PO). It's still not a very good one, and I've thinking about installing a proper chock - like Docc has, or just reselling it and buying a nicer one. I'm leaning toward upgrading, but I haven't gotten very serious about it yet. I like the idea of a pneumatic lift, because I have a large air compressor. This Black Widow lift has caught my eye: http://www.discountramps.com/motorcycle-lift-tables/p/BW-PROLIFT-HD/?CID=PSC-PLA-Google-BW-PROLIFT-HD-motorcycle-lift-tables&st-t=google-motorcycle-lift-tables&vt-pti=140089367782&vt-k=&vt-m=&CAWELAID=820562990000011465&CAGPSPN=pla&CAAGID=23055664462&CATCI=pla-140089367782&gclid=CjwKEAiAoOvEBRDD25uyu9Lg9ycSJAD0cnByJlXivSEVM3jawgqVo3cC8mgU5fIg-JKg_QaUEDEltBoCFKHw_wcB

I like the baby-ball-peen for most things. But the steering races needed the big ball-peen... and the urethane mallet is nice for tapping on anything with threads or bolt heads. A different interpretation is that Mrs. Scud has a new Subaru Forester. So I have (at least temporarily) withdrawn from the "big garage" where my toolbox and lift are... and have been working in the "small garage." It's a constant battle to keep the tools organized on the floor - and I just keep getting more tools out and not putting any away. "Small garage" has a urethane floor, so spills (think transmission pudding) wipe up easily. "Big garage" got used as the spray-booth for a few hours yesterday. It has not evaded my perceptive eye that the Forester will fit more easily in "small garage" than the Mazda CX-9... but these observations should not be shared at this time.

I've had great experience with Dan Kyle Racing in Monterey, CA. He supplied everything I needed for my Scura Forks, but then I ended up taking the parts to local shop for the rebuild. I have the special 4-pin fork cap tool if you need it (but you'd probably rather make one out of thin air...) If you were in Santa Monica it would be worth the 300 mile drive up Highway 1 to pick them up in person. All the Ohlins spec sheets are in the FileShare section: http://www.v11lemans.com/forums/index.php?showtopic=1427

If we're not talking about motorcycles, this is a very naughty thread.

That bike sat for about three years in Indiana, which has some bitter cold winters. Here's the seal I removed from it. The inner part has a wave pattern with 5 crests to complete the circle. You can see two of the crests in the photo.

No fun today... but you will win eventually. Have you tried heat on the wheel and freeze spray on the bearing? And there's no shame in having a shop press it out if needed - except you probably want your new tool to do what it's supposed to. I have elongated a few holes on sidecovers to make them fit. Having swapped some stuff around, I noticed that a cover that fits on one airbox does not necessarily fit on another airbox.

Here's my "spray-booth." I had to dig the sawhorse out from under the project to pull this off. I think stuff looks cool in primer grey.

I have one of those seals on order from Harpers - should arrive later this week. Will get a good photo when I have it in hand. The concerns about appropriate quantity of oil may be limited to that thick Redline Heavy Shockproof stuff. After cleaning that mess, I'm going back to the recommended GL-5 gear oil for my transmissions.

The LH bar was slightly bent from going down - which made getting the bar-end weight out a bit "challenging." So I squeezed it back into alignment. Then got the front end back together, including putting the original clip-ons back on, new grips, new-ish reservoirs, some new stainless fasteners, etc. Hand-me-down Omron relays from my Red LeMans. Stripped the bubble-paint from the tranny - then gave it one more flush with diesel fuel because the pink-goo was still slowly oozing out of places. I think it's finally clean. I know I said earlier to conduct an intervention if I start to paint another drivetrain... but I cannot put the bubble paint engine and transmission next to that luscious candy-apple powdercoating. Interventions must be held in person. Bring goggles and a long sleeve shirt... On paint: With my new IR thermometer and portable space heater, I was able to record a 160-degree surface temperature on the fork bottoms. That'll have to do. I'm going to bake the transmission covers in the oven, but will just point the heater at the main case, which still has a lot of oil in it. It's a good idea to harden it as much as possible before assembly.

I'm sure Phil has forgotten more about this stuff than I'll never know.. so I doubt that's it. ...and I just re-read Phil's original post... no issues with metal.

I'm replacing one now on a bike with 50,000 miles. While I don't know the history, I'd be surprised if the transmission had ever been removed - so I assume the seal was original. There was not evidence of a leak, but I thought I would replace since I had the cover off to clean out the oil, which had solidified. I replaced the one on my Scura with 12,000 miles. It was fine too - but I replaced preventatively since I was painting the cases. If you're replacing a seal after 4,000 km, then I wonder if something is wrong with the metal surface that mates to the seal. If a seal hardens, it can cut a groove into the metal. Or maybe the new seal had a small cut from start. Interesting on the directional seals. Can you post pics or part number when you get a chance?