V11 Shift improvement

[audiomick]

7 minutes ago, Pressureangle said:

I think I figured out the whyfor on this adjustment. 
I figure it's insurance in case the pawl doesn't fall all the way down on a shift- if the pawl hook is hanging on the pin just enough to pull the wheel it will roll up and off as the wheel turns. When it crosses this adjuster it will be forced down as it passes, so the hook can't jump off the pin mid-shift. 
Not having one, I can't know how to set it, but I guess I'd set it with a couple to a few thousandths at the closest point that passes during normal operation. 

I have a feeling that you are rediscovering some things that @Lucky Phil mentioned in the first post in this thread. 

On 8/2/2016 at 8:48 AM, Lucky Phil said:

 

 

 Don't ever be tempted to adjust the large eccentric on the shifter cover with it fitted to the bike. It is a very sensitive adjustment that controls shifter travel and over travel and needs to be on the bench to set up correctly....

 ...the shift selector arm return limit adjustable eccentric...

Set up the eccentric with about 0.030" clearance to the shift arm at its closest point in the travel....

 

 

[Pressureangle]

9 minutes ago, audiomick said:

I have a feeling that you are rediscovering some things that @Lucky Phil mentioned in the first post in this thread. 

 

Yes, but it wasn't clear to me *what it does*. Perhaps I didn't read closely enough.
Upon review, the internal pawl clearance eccentric wasn't mentioned- unless it was through the middle of the thread. Again, to have spent the effort to install that where the early door has only a roll pin, it must have been a real complaint.

Edited June 19 by Pressureangle

[Lucky Phil]

1 hour ago, Pressureangle said:

Yes, but it wasn't clear to me *what it does*. Perhaps I didn't read closely enough.
Upon review, the internal pawl clearance eccentric wasn't mentioned- unless it was through the middle of the thread. Again, to have spent the effort to install that where the early door has only a roll pin, it must have been a real complaint.

The later gearboxes had 2 eccentrics The main one adjacent to the input shaft that should only be adjusted on the bench and the second one which is just an adjustable limit stop for the selector pawl lever, it also should only be adjusted on the bench. The second one was originally a roll pin which was just fine if the clearance was ok.

You can use the large eccentric next to the input shaft to adjust the pawl arm position with regards to the shift wheel pins.

Phil

Edited June 20 by Lucky Phil

[MotoKnee]

4 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

Given what I've posted above about adjustment, and if it's not too late, I'd be interested in knowing how your pawl is adjusted. Mine was so far out the pawl wouldn't fall over the pin upon release, certainly causing failed shifts though I'm not certain in which direction. 

I rigged mine in a vise this morning to try to determine root cause for shifting issues, primarily downshifting fails.

It didn't take long to see that the front hook was hanging at the pin and not dropping. It took a little fiddling with very small adjustments on the main eccentric to get the same clearance at both the front and rear hooks. Immediate improvement, at least on the bench.

Adjusted the secondary to about .1mm and called it good. Both are a little fiddly trying to keep the setting while holding the shift lever, a screw driver and tightening the lock nut.

I debated whether to replace the 2 springs I had purchased last winter along with doing the other straightening and smoothing steps Phil did.  I didn't want to muddy the water with multiple changes so I put the bike back together with only the eccentric adjustments done.

Just returned from a test ride and could not be more pleased with the result. Every shift up or down was solid, easy and reliable. Transformed the enjoyability of riding the green beast.

My bike had been weeping oil at the second adjuster, I suspect someone tried to tighten the nut with the shifter cover on the bike and just turned the whole unit fouling the setting.

As always, enormous gratitude to Phil and the forum for guidance on resolving problems.

[MotoKnee]

Correction to my post above re: secondary adjuster gap. I meant to type .7mm (not .1mm) as Phil mentions in page 1 and 2 of this thread.

Got out for another ride today in between rain showers and must say I'm thrilled with how smooth and precise shifts are now , should have busted a move on this fix when I first saw this thread.