Jump to content

Recommended Posts

Posted

Cheesehead is Rick. He and Gordon are MG Cycles. Good guys.

No I didn't watch the video. :) I'm also an engineering modelmaker and I've made 100s if not thousands of prototype parts. I'm aware of what temporary tooling can and can't do. .048" stainless in that part? I'd be surprised if you got one "good" one. :huh2:

  • Like 1
Posted
12 minutes ago, Chuck said:

Cheesehead is Rick. He and Gordon are MG Cycles. Good guys.

No I didn't watch the video. :) I'm also an engineering modelmaker and I've made 100s if not thousands of prototype parts. I'm aware of what temporary tooling can and can't do. .048" stainless in that part? I'd be surprised if you got one "good" one. :huh2:

Maybe watch it and see if an old dog can learn something new.

Posted

Ok, the old dawg watched it and it was just what I expected. No good ones, and the die is already broken. For the time it took, I could have made metal dies on the mill.

Edit:

Look, I'm not knocking 3D printing. I use some printed stuff in the shop daily.. but what he is trying to do here is beyond the capability of plastic.

Posted
4 hours ago, swooshdave said:

side-stand-lever-v11-1100-sport-centauro

This is an interesting option. It looks horrible. I wonder how long those welds will hold up.

 

https://www.stein-dinse.biz/product_info.php?language=sc&products_id=4940

If the rod ends are sunk in holes (like the mount holes) and welded, it should be OK.

I'm trying to adapt the springworks from an Italian switchblade to the sidestand so I can have push button deployment.

  • Haha 1
Posted
8 hours ago, Chuck said:

Cheesehead is Rick. He and Gordon are MG Cycles. Good guys.

No I didn't watch the video. :) I'm also an engineering modelmaker and I've made 100s if not thousands of prototype parts. I'm aware of what temporary tooling can and can't do. .048" stainless in that part? I'd be surprised if you got one "good" one. :huh2:

Worked on the Boeing YC-14 prototype tooling. It had to make (2) parts. For some of the autoclaved tooling, quick repairs were made with bondo and lamp black to match the black epoxy of the tooling. Can only imagine what McDonnell-Douglas did on their YC-15.

Posted
12 hours ago, Chuck said:

Ok, the old dawg watched it and it was just what I expected. No good ones, and the die is already broken. For the time it took, I could have made metal dies on the mill.

Edit:

Look, I'm not knocking 3D printing. I use some printed stuff in the shop daily.. but what he is trying to do here is beyond the capability of plastic.

Which was the point of the video, to stress test the plastic. Not to optimize the process. 

  • 4 years later...
Posted

IMG_5654.JPEGIMG_5652.JPEGIMG_5653.JPEG

So I wanted to see if I could take a different approved on the side stand thing. While I had made a temp solution like 4 years ago (:unsure:) it's time to make another temp solution.

The first step was to make sure it would mount. I just made some sort of shape and printed it out. The next prototype will be a little more usable. But the concept is there, something less obtrusive but still useful.

Stay tuned.

  • Like 3
  • Thanks 1
Posted

I think I have a design I like. I'll ride the bike (one of these days) and see if it's suitable. If not, I'll throw the piece of plastic away and make another. This is the rough draft, "final" version will be out of silver PETG. PETG doesn't soften until about 176F/75C. I don't think it will get that hot next to the exhaust. We will see.

IMG_5656.JPEGIMG_5655.JPEG

  • Like 3
Posted

We deal mostly in Nylon, usually forms of Nylon-6. Though we aren't doing any thermal work yet, the mechanical properties are far superior to PETG and it's significantly more heat resistant as well, 350F+ to deform and about 450F to soften to filament. I'd definitely take one or two of these. Hm, not sure the 1100 Sport has the bolt bosses...might have to upgrade that. 

Posted
On 5/19/2021 at 4:32 PM, po18guy said:

Worked on the Boeing YC-14 prototype tooling. It had to make (2) parts. For some of the autoclaved tooling, quick repairs were made with bondo and lamp black to match the black epoxy of the tooling. Can only imagine what McDonnell-Douglas did on their YC-15.

Top secret ! AKA- you din't wanna know

  • Like 1
Posted
3 hours ago, Pressureangle said:

We deal mostly in Nylon, usually forms of Nylon-6. Though we aren't doing any thermal work yet, the mechanical properties are far superior to PETG and it's significantly more heat resistant as well, 350F+ to deform and about 450F to soften to filament. I'd definitely take one or two of these. Hm, not sure the 1100 Sport has the bolt bosses...might have to upgrade that. 

I use the PETG to prototype because it's cheap and prints well and is relatively durable.

If I wanted the part to last I would use ASA, which is UV and heat resistant. Doesn't get soft until about 105C. Durable like ABS but with better properties. Little tougher to print than PETG. The downside is I have to move the printer to the garage as you DO NOT want to breathe the fumes. :blink:

Nylon is also excellent but you have to be careful as it sucks up the moisture prior to printing. But it's not that much more heat resistant than the ASA.

Filament technology is rapidly growing.

Semi-final. Thick walls and 25% infill so this is really durable. When I bounced the part on the desk you could hear how solid it is.

IMG_5659.JPEGIMG_5658.JPEG

  • Like 6
Posted

So interesting to watch this development, @swooshdave!

Having replaced a couple of the factory wire "levers", I settled on using the broken safety retention washer that failed to retain my gearbox input hub. 

I'm not sure if that is way-cool or sad&pathetic, but "it is" . . .

IMG_2796.JPG

IMG_2577.jpg

  • Like 2
Posted

I rather hope that mine doesn't break. What I like about the original "wire tang" is that I can reach it with my hand to put the side-stand down whilst sitting on the bike. That might sound impractical, but it is actually (for me) very comfortable. :huh2:

  • Like 1
Posted
15 hours ago, audiomick said:

I rather hope that mine doesn't break. What I like about the original "wire tang" is that I can reach it with my hand to put the side-stand down whilst sitting on the bike. That might sound impractical, but it is actually (for me) very comfortable. :huh2:

Yes, I agree... that sounds completely impractical. :D

Your yoga instructor must be very proud.

But the wire tang will probably last longer if you deploy by hand and not by foot.

  • Like 2

Create an account or sign in to comment

You need to be a member in order to leave a comment

Create an account

Sign up for a new account in our community. It's easy!

Register a new account

Sign in

Already have an account? Sign in here.

Sign In Now
×
×
  • Create New...