Lucky Phil Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 3 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 Wow that's a good weight saving. What titanium alloy did you use? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted July 17, 2023 Author Share Posted July 17, 2023 6AI-4V Phil 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Scud Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 386 grams (.85 pounds) savings - for a fresh and stronger axle. If you're thinking of making a few more, put me on the "interested" list. 3 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Kevin_T Posted July 17, 2023 Share Posted July 17, 2023 Quite a weight savings from a single component. All unsprung weight as well. Phil, you have lots of titanium nuts in your builds is galling ever a problem? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 4 hours ago, Kevin_T said: Quite a weight savings from a single component. All unsprung weight as well. Phil, you have lots of titanium nuts in your builds is galling ever a problem? No never an issue. I use copper anti seize on Ti Parts but don't usually bother re applying it once it's on there and I remove and install bolts etc. Phil 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 Does the nut have to also be the same Titanium alloy to torque properly? Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 27 minutes ago, docc said: Does the nut have to also be the same Titanium alloy to torque properly? I do have a Ti nut for it, pictured but no you can use a steel nut if you like. Torque? same as steel should be fine but then again I don't torque axle nuts anyway. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 If I had even just one Titanium nut . . . Oh, wait, I took that "somewhere else" . . . I asked about matching the bolt and nut metals from learning that a 10.9 hardness bolt should be matched to a 10.9 hardness nut, maybe even the washer, to insure proper torque and no galling or distortion between the metals' differences. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
LowRyter Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 Phil, you're just showing off now 2 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 22 minutes ago, docc said: If I had even just one Titanium nut . . . Oh, wait, I took that "somewhere else" . . . I asked about matching the bolt and nut metals from learning that a 10.9 hardness bolt should be matched to a 10.9 hardness nut, maybe even the washer, to insure proper torque and no galling or distortion between the metals' differences. Honoured more in the breach than the observance I think docc. Phil Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
docc Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 10 minutes ago, Lucky Phil said: Honoured more in the breach than the observance I think docc. Phil I'm not sure my American English clearly translates that Australian English ? ? Our investigation of the reaction rod bolt failures led me to the recommendation that bolt and nut metals (type and hardness) are matched . . . Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
MartyNZ Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 3 hours ago, docc said: I'm not sure my American English clearly translates that Australian English ? ? Our investigation of the reaction rod bolt failures led me to the recommendation that bolt and nut metals (type and hardness) are matched.... Docc, I think he means something like "you're technically correct but meh, does it really matter?" A bit like the susceptibility of titanium to embrittlement & stress cracking when in contact with cadmium; it's true, but at normal temperatures it isn't very important. 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
Lucky Phil Posted July 18, 2023 Author Share Posted July 18, 2023 4 hours ago, docc said: I'm not sure my American English clearly translates that Australian English ? ? Our investigation of the reaction rod bolt failures led me to the recommendation that bolt and nut metals (type and hardness) are matched . . . It's Shakespeare docc. It means it might be a "rule" but it rarely is adhered to or used. If you are holding up the empire state building or the gas turbine on the wing of an aircraft where you want to be assured the bolt will achieve it's ultimate tensile strength if needed then it makes sense to use the same nut material. Thing is in the motorcycle world fasteners don't fail because they are subjected to loads beyond their yield strength they fail for other reasons. If you applied the female threaded component must be of the same material strength as the bolt or stud then our engines would all need to be made of steel. The torque arm bolt failures wouldn't have been due to a lack of bolt strength in shear it would have been a fatigue failure initiated by wear from the bolt being loose and or corrosion I would think. The torque arm doesn't carry a lot of load in reality. Phil 2 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
guzziart Posted July 18, 2023 Share Posted July 18, 2023 Hi Phil, Your steel axle appears like the wheel bearing had spun on it....Is that normal? My rear axle looks like that, I can feel a slight steps/ridges on mine. I attribute the wear to the misplacement of the large washer that normally goes between the rear drive and swing arm being improperly placed between the wheel external drive splines & rear drive internal drive splines. Yep, you read that right. I'm just glad I caught it before it ruined the any splines since the washer only allowed partial spline engagement. Anyway, back to the "stepped" axle....to me, it obviously looks worn due to a bearing spin. I'd like to replace the axle if I come across a good used one but haven't been successful at that yet. Maybe i should get off my wallet and buy new, if available??!! Or if you're satisfied with your engineering and make a run of axles please place me on your list of potential buyers. Thoughts? Oh, my wheel bearings feel ok and I couldn't detect any unusual wear with the bearing i.d. Art PS - Nice job on the Ti axle! 1 Link to comment Share on other sites More sharing options...
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