guzziart

Yeah, I marked up my relays, fuses, etc. after seeing yours Doc but mine aren't as elegant.

I oughta print this diagnostic rundown and carry it on the bike and leave a copy in the shop manual.

Harpers I ain't had very good luck lately with fleabay new/used stuff for sale but what do I know. That stand bracket looks to be cast aluminum, bends one way but not so easily back the other way without breaking is a ferrous material. Definitely possible to straighten with heat I guess. I like the idea of checking securement hardware at oil change/annual checklist item or possibly using locktite (medium) or lock washers. Good luck.

https://cleveland.craigslist.org/mcy/d/chagrin-falls-2003-moto-guzzi-v11-lemans/7761642890.html Yeah, it's time for me to let someone else enjoy this awesome machine. Art

Yep. I used the 2375 for the short run to the reservoir. I use the F4040A as fuel supply on my carbureted bikes since it is fuel rated and fuel is gravity fed to the carbs. However, the F4040A does not like heat so I end up replacing the lines every few years....discoloration is the first sign of impending failure. Also, I buy this stuff at McMaster-Carr, they have an awesome on-line catalog, reasonable prices and super quick shipping. They're local to me, I place an order and can pick it up within an hour. As for bleeding hydraulics I've always used a vacuum bleeder....Mity Vac hand pump, home made vac out of a one gallon pickle jar (it'll suck cold gear oil too!) but more recently I bought this https://www.harborfreight.com/brake-fluid-bleeder-92924.html It was inexpensive and works good. I believe gravity bleeding works well too, I just don't have the patience for it because I feel it is a little more time consuming. As for flushing out debris that may be in the circuit, I change fluid every 2-4 years and don't give debris much thought. On old bkes I've acquired where there is shmutz in the rez, I wipe it out and hope for the best with a couple flushes, my '87 LMIVSE was in bad shape, it was obvious a master cylinder overhaul was the solution. Art

FWIW, I replaced my plug wires about 4 years ago with NGK CR5 plug wires during a tank-off because one of the oe wire boots had obvious damage. I now see that the cr5's have been discontinued.

I had both leak... first it was the cam timing sensor so I replaced it after numerous attempts with new orings, JB weld the top & cable coming from it, etc. The other leak was the cam chain cover on the right side of engine. For the cam chain cover gasket, I went with "genuine" guzzi composite. The other gaskets I had bought (aftermarket composite & paper) were not cut imo properly...gasket bolt holes did not line up with bolt holes in the cover without distorting the gasket. Yeah, I know MG doesn't make their own gaskets...just saying the MG offering lays flat & all the holes line up as they should...no distortion. Also, I think I read somewhere that while the original was paper, it was superceded to a composite around 2005. Anyway, the MG composite gasket went on dry, no sealer, no leaks. Art

Fwiw, the 35mm negatives have worked great for me over the years but I've not yet tried it on inverted forks. And, the film thing didn't work on my Wing last Fall so I bit the bullet and bought a Seal Doctor at RevZilla. The Seal Doctor worked great! It was hard to believe how much crap the Seal Doctor pulled out over and above what the 35mm film had removed. While I do my best to routinely make sure my fork tubs are clean and free of bug goo & dirt, the newest bike I have now is in excess of 16 years old so if I do experience a fork leak that film or Seal Dr can't resolve, I really can't complain. Also, FWIW, check this guy out....

I copied Chuck's method so I wouldn't have to dig deeper into my wallet for the stuff that shows up better on the dipstick.

Thanks for that one! I wondered why those graphics but I understand now. Art

I think I'd be happy to get $6k for my '03 Lemans with 13k miles on it and it has a working odometer. Any takers??!!

Figures! I'll have to get off my wallet again seeing as the Vintage brand fits ok with the plastic bucket on the V11 Lemans.

My LED headlight bulb experiences with the V11 Lemans.... 1st LED was a few millimeters too long on the backside and caused an interference fit with the back of the bucket so, that didn't work. 2nd LED was the same overall dimensions as the oem H4, it fit, it worked fine with the inside shield. However, the LED was an "off brand" for about $15, it only lasted a few weeks. I reinstalled the original bulb. I'll probably get back to installing a "good" quality LED headlight bulb one of these days. I liked the lower current draw on the electrical system with the LED in place.

FWIW....Tennessee annual purchase date registration is a pita imho, I would definitely get in trouble. However, I like the registration game Ohio has the same 25 yo "historical" tag option with conditions and requires renewal every 50 years....yeah, 50 years. With all the junk I have the historical option saves me alot in annual registration fees. Further, Ohio allows owners to replate vehicles with tags from that era. My '71 cb350 has a plate that was "minted" in '71...yellow with black lettering, the '72 cl350 & Eldo have plates stamped out in '72...they're dark blue with yellow lettering. It's kinda neat running around on an old bike with a plate that was stamped out in the same year the bike was manufactured. One of my riding buds, who has an old Eldo too teases me that his Eldo is original, whereas mine is not because I did the gen to alternator conversion. My response is that my bike has the original plate that was issued to the bike in '72, so there! I had bought the bike from the original owner and he managed to save & include the plate with the bike purchase. Although my friend got his Eldo from his dad, his originally issued registration plate is long gone. We have fun goofing on each other over stupid stuff...obviously, I guess. On another note, I have a 4' x 8' 1500lb gvwr trailer I bought new in '90 for $400, I use it two or three times a year. In the 33 years of ownership it has cost me over $1200 in registration fees.

Me too....it wasn't the "high cam/cold start assembly" though, it was a commonly available chrome plated rusty friction type piece of 5#it.