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guzziart last won the day on June 8 2020

guzziart had the most liked content!

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  • Location
    Geauga County in Northeast Ohio
  • My bike(s)
    2003 Moto Guzzi V11 Lemans, '72 MG Eldorado, '72 Honda CL350, '81 CB125s, '87 MG Lemans SE, '91 Honda CT70, '08 Honda Goldwing, '12 Suzuki Wee Strom

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  1. FWIW, I call it "end play". While the end play might be acceptable as Lucky Phil said, I thought it was unusual for the seal to flex in and out as the spline shaft is moved fore and aft. I don't think the seal should be hanging up on the shaft and wonder if that is where T89's leak is coming from....a failed seal, seal lip riding in a dirt groove/rust/etc. imho but defer to the more knowledgeable here. Art Update an hour later: OK, I've got the same movement on mine as in the video and no leaks.
  2. Hi, Stupid question....So, both tank fittings are the same part number? Although I've had my tank off a few times, I never bothered to notice if both tank fittings were the same other than I think one is red and the other is white. Also, how are the original fittings removed from the tank/pump base plate? Just curious, hope I never need to do that, replacing the internal filter, lines & gasket were fun enough. Thanks, Art
  3. Yeah, at least not posted.....contact Greg at TOT to inquire about pieces/parts, I've done it for other oddball electrical stuff for my Eldo & LMIVSE. He's the owner/proprieter/manufacturer of custom motocycle wiring and is a well respected down-to-earth knowledgeable easy to talk to nice guy. Art
  4. FWIW, if you are looking for connector parts try Greg Bender at This Old Tractor. https://www.thisoldtractor.com/for_sale_wiring_harness_tonti_california_iii.html
  5. Interesting! I had noticed wear on my seat pan so I "trimmed" (2each 0.375" holes) accordingly to alleviate pressure on the L-bracket post on my Odyssey. I did not notice any wear on the battery strap/seat pan area but will now double check it and give consideration to lowering the battery basket. Thanks! Art
  6. Thanks Docc! I've got a McMaster-Carr baggie of #112 (60 durometer) Viton orings from back in 2020 when I was messing with the original sensor. The original leaked from the top of the sensor molded housing and after I sealed it, it began to leak from where the molded housing meets the cable casing. Yeah, the old thing would seep, the new set-up leaks. I plan on getting to this on the next rainy day. Thanks, Art
  7. I recently replaced the cam chain cover gasket because it was leaking and I noticed the timing sensor was leaking (again/still). So, I bought a replacement sensor & oring from our popular MG aftermarket parts retailer. I applied Permatex 300 gasket sealer to the new sensor & oring then installed them. Now at about 500 miles later, I 've got a leak from the sensor lower fastening screw...it seems. My next course of action is to get another new oring, remove the sensor, clean up everything, install new oring, goop up the whole mess with Permatex 300 (including screws if screw holes are open ended into timing chest) & reinstall. This is getting to be an annoying pita. Hey Docc....if you're reading this...Is the #112 oring the same size as the oem oring for this sensor? Thanks, Art
  8. FWIW, I put a Shorai in my '72 CB450 back in 2010. I sold the CB450 in the winter of '12, the battery had no problem cranking the engine in a 38F. garage. When I first got the battery I thought it was a joke because it weighted nearly nothing but for the 2 years I had it in the bike it worked as expected. Yeah, the CB450 was another bike I regretted getting rid of. Art
  9. I goofed, didn't look at this illustrated parts breakdown for the alternator prior to pulling the front cover otherwise I would have definitely replaced the #9 oring. I realized the oring was present when I was going back together and the oring offered a slight drag while sliding onto the shaft. Anyway, if you're pulling the front cover, replace the oring imho. Also, my spacer did not have a chamfer for an additional oring but a flange, the only way to remove the spacer is to remove the crank seal too or pull the cover. ... both after stator/rotor removal of course. FWIW, I have about 200 miles on my Lemans since timing cover gasket replacement, went back with a "genuine" Guzzi metal/composite gasket and no leaks detected nor was gasket sealer used upon installation. This gasket lined up perfect with bolt holes & bosses. The same distortion/misaligned bolt holes I encountered with an aftermarket composite gasket I have also observed with a paper/fiber gasket from another dealer which leads me to think that whomever is making "knock off" gaskets used a poor example for a template. Art
  10. Wow, you guys had very nice 1st bikes...mine was a '65 Yamaha YA6 basket case. I don't know if I have any pics, I'll look.
  11. Hey Speedfrog, Yeah, the foil tape was pricey ($20) but I think everything is expensive no matter how inexpensive it is. Luckily, the cloth/fabric type insulation on my tank is in good condition and just needed fresh foil tape on the seams & gaps. Art
  12. FWIW, I purchased my heat resistant foil tape at Autozone. The tape is distributed by https://www.designengineering.com/ they also sell other types of heat & sound proof materials. Art
  13. I had my tank off last week to replace cam position sensor & install heat resistant foil tape to the exterior underside of the tank. I had a minor struggle getting the tank pushed back onto the support pucks up front and remember seeing the photo above ... LOL! I've not had issues before when I've had the tank off and went back to install it, crazy eh??!! Art
  14. .....Way too late for that! After conferring with several of you guys in both public & private, I installed the MG latest & greatest cam chain cover gasket dry on wednesday. Then proceeded to replace the leaking timing sensor too after dealing with that pos for a few years now. Oil had been making it way up through the center of the sensor and out between sensor molded housing and cable casing. I also replaced some missing heat insulating foil on the exterior bottom of the fuel tank. So, I gassed it up Friday and rode a few miles. There doesn't seem to be any leaks oil or fuel (yet). I did the shift spring thing last Fall, no leaks at the trans either, I hope i'm hitting a lucky patch with these recent repair tasks. I'm happy I didn't break the fuel tank fittings when working with the tank. Today, I washed it and maybe, weather permitting, I'll be able to ride again soon. Thank you for thinking about my V11 issues and offering advice, I appreciate it. Art
  15. Hi Al, I installed the bulb last Fall and have no idea what kind on longevity it will have. The packaging has the CREE LED name on it but cannot confirm it is a genuine CREE product. Additionally, I just bought a Sylvania LED 194 bulb to replace the incandescent pilot bulb and hope to install it soon. I plan on checking the current draw of both headlight & pilot light combined when I get a minute and post my numbers. I installed an Auxito brand LED in my '87 Lemans, it fit fine whereas, it would not fit the V11 Lemans...base was too thick and overall length was 8-10mm too long as I recall. 4/30/23 Update: The LED bulb described in the pic below draws 0.45 amps on low, 0.65 amps on high. I thought these values were way too low but when I did the math for a 9w bulb (W divided by V = A), it was in the neighbrhood. The originalH4 had a 4.18 amp draw. I wonder how bright this will be at night??!! Glad I'm not out after dark. The Auxito bulb I installed in my '87 Lemans draws 1.7a on low beam, 2.1a on high. I've been out after dark with this bike, I was racing against sunset and sunset won, The Auxito bulb provided me with plenty of light imho. Art
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