I am lost, need some forum expert help :)

[Ali Fra]

Hello friends, 

 

I am trying to find how to.. sections for the maintenance I will do this weekend, but I am kinda lost in the forum. I need your guidance  

Can you please kindly redirect me to related topic in the forum of the things below? 

 

- Engine Oil and Filter change 

- Transmission oil change 

- Gearbox spring change (Its not broken yet but the speedo turns 13k soon, idk if its necessary. any idea?)

-  Engine start cable repositioning:

I have this weird problem that I guess is very common with some models. Start button will only work if I steer the handlebar to the right. 

Otherwise, It wont start. 

 

Thank you very much in advance

[Scud]

there are manuals available for download:  

If you have the time, replacing the spring is good preventative maintenance. But you could probably get away without doing until until next winter.

[docc]

Rotating the steering to get the starter to work is characteristic of faulty bullet connectors for the clutch switch:

 

[audiomick]

9 hours ago, Ali Fra said:

- Engine Oil and Filter change 

- Transmission oil change

Those are likely to be explained here somewhere, but the workshop manual does a good job too.

here:

https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf

 

Section D, starting on page 57, covers regular maintence. Best to read all of that section, actually.

Engine oil page 60 ff., filter follows that.

Gearbox oil page 74 ff.

 

PS: the linked document is a compilation. The "section D" I referred to is in the first section, for the earlier models. However, the information doesn't turn up again in the later sections of the document, i.e. in the section for the later models, so I assume that the information for the first model continues to apply for all following models.

Edited 21 hours ago by audiomick

[gstallons]

BTW , do not put the gear oil in where the rubber plug id=s in the side of the transmission. You will fill up yhe clutch housing and cause problems !

[p6x]

11 hours ago, Ali Fra said:

Gearbox spring change (Its not broken yet but the speedo turns 13k soon, idk if its necessary. any idea?)

Mine broke at 30k miles. Since you are in Norway, I suppose 13 k is 13,000 km. 30k miles is about 50k km. I would wait.

11 hours ago, Ali Fra said:

Engine start cable repositioning:

What you need to do, is to connect the crank signal through an additional relay, and route the solenoid direct from the battery using that relay. This is how you take care of the no crank issue once forever. The starter motor main power is coming direct from the battery. However, the Solenoid power is routed through the ignition switch. Over time, that signal does not bring enough amps to get the Solenoid to close the circuit to power the starter motor.

After purchasing my Le Mans, I experienced the "no crank" almost right from the beginning. It was a 2004 model with about 9000 miles on the non-working odometer.

The bike would seem to crank normally, but at times, pushing the start button would yield nothing. After a few moves, then it would crank again.

Just modify the start wiring. At present, your start wire is connected directly from the ignition switch to the solenoid via the start button. Install another relay, connect that start wire to that relay, and the plus solenoid directly to the battery via the relay. Voilà! you will never have the no crank issue again.

Here's a photo of the additional relay on my Le Mans so six instead of five...

Here's the video of what happens when you have the non modified circuit:

Here's another issue that you need to check for: the nipple gets loose and starts to leak:!

This is the pics of my broken pawl spring in the gear box:

 

[p6x]

1 hour ago, gstallons said:

BTW , do not put the gear oil in where the rubber plug id=s in the side of the transmission. You will fill up yhe clutch housing and cause problems !

And you waited all that time to tell me?

Each time I change the gearbox oil, my clutch slips... now I understand why!!!

[gstallons]

That was a funny response ! 

 No kiddin' , a member did a trans oil change and installed the oil in the flywheel housing ! Back when the Saab 900S with a m.t. was around , oil change places would drain the gearbox and add 5qts of oil and the car would get about 5-10 miles down the road and then TROUBLE !  

[po18guy]

7 hours ago, p6x said:

And you waited all that time to tell me?

Each time I change the gearbox oil, my clutch slips... now I understand why!!!

Is a dipstick available? I heard they slip when the level is too low.

[Ali Fra]

16 hours ago, audiomick said:

Those are likely to be explained here somewhere, but the workshop manual does a good job too.

here:

https://guzzitek.org/gb/ma_us_uk/1100/V11_1999-2003_Atelier(Compil-GB-D-NL).pdf

 

Section D, starting on page 57, covers regular maintence. Best to read all of that section, actually.

Engine oil page 60 ff., filter follows that.

Gearbox oil page 74 ff.

 

PS: the linked document is a compilation. The "section D" I referred to is in the first section, for the earlier models. However, the information doesn't turn up again in the later sections of the document, i.e. in the section for the later models, so I assume that the information for the first model continues to apply for all following models.

Thank you very much. I see its pretty clear actually! 

[Ali Fra]

13 hours ago, p6x said:

Mine broke at 30k miles. Since you are in Norway, I suppose 13 k is 13,000 km. 30k miles is about 50k km. I would wait.

What you need to do, is to connect the crank signal through an additional relay, and route the solenoid direct from the battery using that relay. This is how you take care of the no crank issue once forever. The starter motor main power is coming direct from the battery. However, the Solenoid power is routed through the ignition switch. Over time, that signal does not bring enough amps to get the Solenoid to close the circuit to power the starter motor.

After purchasing my Le Mans, I experienced the "no crank" almost right from the beginning. It was a 2004 model with about 9000 miles on the non-working odometer.

The bike would seem to crank normally, but at times, pushing the start button would yield nothing. After a few moves, then it would crank again.

Just modify the start wiring. At present, your start wire is connected directly from the ignition switch to the solenoid via the start button. Install another relay, connect that start wire to that relay, and the plus solenoid directly to the battery via the relay. Voilà! you will never have the no crank issue again.

Here's a photo of the additional relay on my Le Mans so six instead of five...

Here's the video of what happens when you have the non modified circuit:

Here's another issue that you need to check for: the nipple gets loose and starts to leak:!

This is the pics of my broken pawl spring in the gear box:

 

Thats an amazing guidance bud, thank you very much for all this explanations! 

[Ali Fra]

13 hours ago, p6x said:

Mine broke at 30k miles. Since you are in Norway, I suppose 13 k is 13,000 km. 30k miles is about 50k km. I would wait.

What you need to do, is to connect the crank signal through an additional relay, and route the solenoid direct from the battery using that relay. This is how you take care of the no crank issue once forever. The starter motor main power is coming direct from the battery. However, the Solenoid power is routed through the ignition switch. Over time, that signal does not bring enough amps to get the Solenoid to close the circuit to power the starter motor.

After purchasing my Le Mans, I experienced the "no crank" almost right from the beginning. It was a 2004 model with about 9000 miles on the non-working odometer.

The bike would seem to crank normally, but at times, pushing the start button would yield nothing. After a few moves, then it would crank again.

Just modify the start wiring. At present, your start wire is connected directly from the ignition switch to the solenoid via the start button. Install another relay, connect that start wire to that relay, and the plus solenoid directly to the battery via the relay. Voilà! you will never have the no crank issue again.

Here's a photo of the additional relay on my Le Mans so six instead of five...

Here's the video of what happens when you have the non modified circuit:

Here's another issue that you need to check for: the nipple gets loose and starts to leak:!

This is the pics of my broken pawl spring in the gear box:

 

I have found this relay in Norway, I think it can replace the Song Chuan, what do you think? 

- BOSCH 0 986 AH0 304

Also, Do you have any simple diagram that explains the re-routing? 

[docc]

4 hours ago, Ali Fra said:

I have found this relay in Norway, I think it can replace the Song Chuan, what do you think? 

- BOSCH 0 986 AH0 304

Also, Do you have any simple diagram that explains the re-routing? 

Here is one by @Kiwi_Roy courtesy os @Weegie's DropBox:

https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/no8adkie1sl6frnc2qmm8/ALzrUXsngCqMRtfMR1cXedE?dl=0&e=1&preview=Startus+Innteruptus.jpg&rlkey=8x5byzd4ux3107610i22ig5v6&st=3xbx7rbu

Yet, because your steering position affects starting, do not overlook the faulty connections of the clutch switch at the nefarious "bullet connectors" at the left side of the frame spine beneath the tank.

[Weegie]

Sounds like what Guzzi owners refer to as Startus Innterus @docc beat me to the punch, regarding Roy's diagram

Regarding the Bosch relay, according to the spec I found its rated at 20A

I'm not sure about the relay layout on the V11 but the Power Relay operating fuel pump, injectors and coil has to feed a large load 

If it was me unless there is something wrong with the Chinese one I'd leave it, as it's a larger rating (if it's to be believed of course)

 

[gstallons]

A member did the refill (in the wrong place) last year w/bad results. 

The additional start relay will fix an intermittent  condition. Yours is doing it when the bars are turned fully in one direction only. This is highly unlikely to fix this. Find out for sure. Turn the bars fully in the direction of the no-start and hold the starter button down . Then rotate the bars in the opposite direction until the starter starts working. There may be bullet connectors that are not making good connection . find & repair . You can use crimp connections to fix this because you need to have a perfect connection instead of a quick connect coupling.

 The extra relay is a good idea but get your bike to where it starts every time FIRST !