[dlaing]

Enzo, on Jul 31 2006, 11:14 PM, said:

Is there a place on this site to look at other dynos?

There wasn't one specific place, but I think there should be....if only for bragging
With a little help from everyone who has dyno'd, this could be the place.
I'll start out with the dyno of my bike when it had a QuatD muffler, open airbox lid, BMC filter, and Tuning Linked serial PCIII:

My bike is in blue, and a typical stock bike in red for comparison.

[pete roper]

Got rid of the dip at 4 & 1/2 didn't it

If there is a Gallery it would be worth touching Mark up for a copy of the Dyno run they did on the 'Tetanus' an old Ambo he pulled out of some bush somewhere and took along to some big Harley Dyno-Drag. He simply swapped the oil changed the fuel and stuck a battery in it and it made a whopping 27BHP, (Or some other paltry amount.) and nearly gassed everyone on the SanFernando valley with it's stink but it still got the biggest ovation of the day

Pete

[dlaing]

pete roper, on Aug 1 2006, 12:58 AM, said:

Got rid of the dip at 4 & 1/2 didn't it

If there is a Gallery it would be worth touching Mark up for a copy of the Dyno run they did on the 'Tetanus' an old Ambo he pulled out of some bush somewhere and took along to some big Harley Dyno-Drag. He simply swapped the oil changed the fuel and stuck a battery in it and it made a whopping 27BHP, (Or some other paltry amount.) and nearly gassed everyone on the SanFernando valley with it's stink but it still got the biggest ovation of the day

Pete

I could not find the dyno for it, but here's some pics
http://www.motoguzzi...m/MGCTetnus.asp
Can't believe they bothered dynoing it
Martin Barrett's bike is a similar risk for tetanus
http://img.photobuck...i/050506004.jpg
but atleast it makes more than 27HP....

[mike wilson]

Pete's getting mixed up with this bike:

http://www.guzzitech...asher-Mark.html

[pete roper]

Ah, I was mistaken. It wasn't Tetanus, it was another bike, it WAS an old Ambo. Why bother dynoing it? Because it was one of those huge tosserfests where lots of people with grossly overmonied attitudes and bikes built for them to compensate for their sad little lives turn up to run their 'Super-Hawgs' on the Dyno to see which is the *best*. Why not take a shitty old Ambo you've just pulled out of a swamp? It's got more class than the whole of that set put together

Pete

[Baldini]

Good idea to put up dyno sheets in one place Dave - praps it could be FAQ'd?

This is mine: 02 Scura with MG Ti cans/ECU kit, Stucchi xover, drilled airbox lid, K&N filter, PC111. Tappets, TB/TPS etc set correct then blue is before, red is after tweaking PC111 on dyno.

KB

Attached File(s)

•  Dyno_chart_post.jpg (105.55K)
  Number of downloads: 499

[guzzi jon]

Here's my 02 Lemans - Mistral pipes, FBF X-over, modified airbox, synthetic yak fat in the trans. Thing revved hard to 8500 rpm



Here's my 02 Cal SS with lafranconis, H-pipe and FBF/BMC airbox doodad, sweetest running guzzi I've ridden

[dlaing]

Nice results Jon!
And since Enzo inspired this thread, here is his post from the "wrong" place

Enzo, on Aug 1 2006, 08:52 PM, said:

Enzo's Cobra with Two-into-One Enzo replica top end racing piple - Mark Seven:

[Guzzirider]

Ok- here is one I posted a few months ago- a before and after FBF pistons comparison made on the same dyno.

Spec at the time was Mistrals / Stucchi X over / Lidless airbox / K and N filter / FBF pistons / PC111 USB + custom map.

I have since removed the PC111 and had the ECU reprogrammed by HTM to alter both the ignition and fuelling curves- must get it on the same dyno again to see what difference this has made.

The bike feels torquier than ever so I would imagine there is even more meat there in the mid range. I have some FBF oversize valves in a box here and will get them fitted and the heads flowed over the winter, then back to HTM after for a ECU retweak (60 euros). I must stop fiddling as it costs a bloody fortune! Guzzi will then go a diet- I am arranging to buy a used Ducati Monster headlight and will strip the fairing and anything else that I can dump. I am cutting down on the beer and pies too purely in the interests of enhancing my power to weight ratio.

Having the Termi race kit fitted to the S4Rs next week, and I will get that dynoed soon just for the crack. Standard bikes are making about 120rwbhp so I am hoping for about 125 or so.

[philbo]

 Dyno.jpg (67.1K)
Number of downloads: 285

04 LeMans / Staintune / Lidless Airbox / Stucchi X-Over / PCIII custom map.

[Alex-Corsa]

 DynoGraphOK.jpg (116.95K)
Number of downloads: 279
As you see the one graph is with a Mistral setup but with the chip that supposed to be ith the normal pipes and crossover ans the other with the Termignoni setup that came alltogether with the bike as a second set up.
Since I have the Mistrals on I worked a new map on the chip and runs fine , before didn't have any idle and run poor.Though notice the enormous tourgue at around 3500rpm that's mosty due to the mistral crossover.
The Termi setup had more power and smother delivery right out of the box.(accompanied with the factory racing chip came also with)
Both bikes had KN filter in the normal airbox.
The measurment was done in Daes Mototec

Now , I am worknig on fitting an oxygen sensor on the the pipe in order to get the LC-1 with it's instrument on work. Where is the better place to fit it ?
1. At the end of the exaust pipe (right or left) before it joins the crossover ?
2. At the end of the crossover befor it joins the front pipe (left or right)

I thnk of the second , isn't it better?

[dlaing]

Alex-Corsa, on Aug 2 2006, 07:46 AM, said:

Now , I am worknig on fitting an oxygen sensor on the the pipe in order to get the LC-1 with it's instrument on work. Where is the better place to fit it ?
1. At the end of the exaust pipe (right or left) before it joins the crossover ?
2. At the end of the crossover befor it joins the front pipe (left or right)

I thnk of the second , isn't it better?

Without an infrared thermometer, I would put it near the end of the exhaust pipe.
I am pretty sure the crossover is too big of a heat sink and will be too cool.
If I ever get around to installing my Innovate, an infrared thermometer would be the best way to check the ideal placement.
I am thinking I could just go to a car mechanic and pay them $10 to give me a quick reading.

[slug]

Alex-Corsa, on Aug 2 2006, 07:46 AM, said:

Now , I am worknig on fitting an oxygen sensor on the the pipe in order to get the LC-1 with it's instrument on work. Where is the better place to fit it ?
1. At the end of the exaust pipe (right or left) before it joins the crossover ?
2. At the end of the crossover befor it joins the front pipe (left or right)

I thnk of the second , isn't it better?

When I installed mine, I checked with Cliff and he said the sensor should be at least 30cm from the head. IIRC he got that number from a shop that speciaizes in fuel injection systems.

Here's where mine is mounted:

 o2.jpg (189.51K)
Number of downloads: 256

[Alex-Corsa]

dlaing, on Aug 2 2006, 06:06 PM, said:

Without an infrared thermometer, I would put it near the end of the exhaust pipe.
I am pretty sure the crossover is too big of a heat sink and will be too cool.
If I ever get around to installing my Innovate, an infrared thermometer would be the best way to check the ideal placement.
I am thinking I could just go to a car mechanic and pay them $10 to give me a quick reading.

And what should the indication of the thermomketer read and after how much time of work?
I mean should the sensor be in a "hotter" (than the crossover) place. ANd why is that the company suggest a heat sinker to drop temp from the sensor if it has to be in a hotter placed. And why are the sensors that come from the factory (in the closed loop bikes)are in the crossover?,or ?
This got me confused a bit.

slug, on Aug 2 2006, 10:14 PM, said:

When I installed mine, I checked with Cliff and he said the sensor should be at least 30cm from the head. IIRC he got that number from a shop that speciaizes in fuel injection systems.

Thank you both for the infos. I thought It has to be to the crossover. Anyways I have seen it at the end of the pipe in many bikes ,so I was wondering.

[dlaing]

Alex-Corsa, on Aug 2 2006, 12:50 PM, said:

And what should the indication of the thermomketer read and after how much time of work?
I mean should the sensor be in a "hotter" (than the crossover) place. ANd why is that the company suggest a heat sinker to drop temp from the sensor if it has to be in a hotter placed. And why are the sensors that come from the factory (in the closed loop bikes)are in the crossover?,or ?
This got me confused a bit.
Thank you both for the infos. I thought It has to be to the crossover. Anyways I have seen it at the end of the pipe in many bikes ,so I was wondering.

Slug's placement is about where I was hoping would work.
It is 'safer', for the life of the sensor, to put it in a cooler place, but the accuracy of the signal drops as one moves away from the head. Different WBO2 sensors have different temperature/placement recommendations...water cooled turbo charged engines could have a real problem if you get to close too the head, or too close to the turbo.
The accuracy also drops when you mix the right and left cylinder gasses in the crossover, ie. if the sensor is attached to the crossover, and one cylinder is too rich and one is too lean, what would the sensor read?
I think the extra trouble of getting a temperature reading before drilling and welding would be a good idea.
Here is what Innovate says (KEEP IN MIND DIFFERENT SENSORS WILL SPEC DIFFERENT OPERATING TEMPERATURE):
http://www.innovatem...support/faq.php

Quote

Q: When do I need to make or install a heat sink?

A: The Bosch LSU4.2 wide-band O2 sensor (shipped as part of the LM-1 kit) is rated to operate at an exhaust gas temperature of < 1300 degrees (F), and a sensor housing temperature of < 900 degrees (measured at the bung) for maximum accuracy and control. When either of these operating temperature ranges is exceeded, the sensor can no longer be accurately controlled. Further, operating at or over these temperatures for any length of time can significantly reduce the lifetime of the sensor. The LM-1 is designed to display an error message under these conditions (currently 08- Sensor Timing Error) rather than provide inaccurate readings. For some turbo vehicles, rotary engines, and other setups, this error message can be encountered with annoying frequency.

Q: How do I make a heat sink?

A: Take a 4-5” square piece of copper (optimal) or aluminum, and punch/drill a hole just big enough to fit over the threads of the O2 sensor. Bend it so that there are two “wings on either side of the sensor. Mount the heat fin between the sensor and the sensor washer. We recommend 0.0647" thickness 4" x 4". (Or you can buy the Innovate HBX-1).