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This tool is for an entirely different purpose, the jaws separate as you squeeze the handles where the green tool discussed above has the opposite action of bringing the jaws together as the handles are being squeezed. It works by fitting on the fuel line connector and pushing the retaining collar back while allowing you to hold and push the whole connector forward towards the elbow with one hand. Just make sure to hold the notoriously fragile elbow coming out of the tank with your other hand. Now, if you use that other tool successfully for disconnecting your fuel line, great! Its main purpose though is to disconnect rubber tube from their fittings by pushing the end of the tube away from the fitting. As you probably know, If you ever tried pulling on a rubber hose to disconnect it from whatever it is attached to, the harder you pull, the tighter it gets.

What I use from Amazon - https://www.amazon.com/Automobile-Remover-Pliers-Vacuum-Separator/dp/B07G5QSQFQ?

It seems that there is 1 missing Carabiniero...as they always work in pairs! Great pics as always!

It's like a pair of chopsticks...wood or ivory. Both work, both will last, you won't need this tool on a regular basis forever...maybe once a year at most. Trust me, you will not wear out the green one or break it. If you want to spend money, buy a metal fuel disconnect from Beemer Boneyard that is lovely metal and will allow you avoid having to use this tool at all...you'll just need to cut into the fuel line to add it in parallel...that would be a better spend. There's also no need to relieve the pressure, but be prepared for gas to come out of the tank once the line is disconnected so having a relatively empty fuel tank is a good idea, and having a handy tube that is already inserted into a multi gallon/liter container to catch any overflow to put on the spigot once the fuel line is disconnected is helpful to avoid spilling gas on the garage floor or work area. The green one works perfectly, use it gently, no need to force anything. The orientation of which side goes where will be obvious once you put it on the fuel line and connector. Worst case scenario, you buy a new spigot for Guzzibits.

Thanks for the answers. First up, I do know how the connectors work. I even have a couple of spares in a box in the garage, and practised with them before going at it on the bike. What hasn't been mentioned: it is very helpful to disconnect the fuel pump, start the bike, and let it run until it stops before one tries to disconnect the coupling. This relieves the pressure in the fuel lines, making the whole thing much easier. Last time I did it, I got the thing apart first go after doing that. This time round, the battery was not in the bike, and I was not motivated to go back home and get it out of the cellar and put it in. I thought that after nearly a year of standing around, there wouldn't be much pressure left in the system. In hindsight, I probably should have put the battery back in. There is a German expression that translates as "in hindsight is one always wiser"... Regarding the tools: the ones I first found are a set, and were on e-bay for about €20.- . I have since found out that KS Tools offers a set that looks almost identical, but *might* be better quality for about €50.- . Still thinking about it, but I'm likely to buy a set, and probably the one from KS.

tech night at @Tomchri 's please.

Oh ... meant to add this, but had another dotage attack. While I appreciate the hints on getting around the C&P issue, it is nonetheless interesting to me that this is the only forum of the (way too many) that I frequently post in, that poses this issue. No biggie, of course, but odd to me. Back to cleaning house here; Kathi returns from a "shower" in Philadelphia tomorrow; I have converted what she left as pristine into a set for a remake of Animal House. Bill

"If you really want/need to standardize the font on a C&P post ..." On the merits, thanks. When a teen grandkid isn't handy, it's nice to draw on the skills of members here. Seriously, thanks. I'll try that next time ... if I remember. Bill

I have that set and it works perfectly…have used it a half dozen times, good workmanship on the tool, you will not wear it out.

Once you get an understanding of how it works you will be p.o'd AFA the removal procedure and how simple it is . Caterpillar had come up w/a new style of "push-lock" hose connection and I wasn't installing it (the new hose) correctly. After 3 attempts and probably 30 gallons of hydraulic fluid spraying the underneath of this "Bobcat" I figured out what I was doing wrong.

Saving up my guilders (er, Euros) now!

Nothing is better than a Dr's excuse !

I don't have anything that looks like these. I would get those. You can try it w/o them . Just remember to push the fittings together and then push the "loose" portion away from the coupling and pull away from the fitting.

If you really want/need to standardize the font on a C&P post, look at the bottom of the post/reply window after you paste your text, a black banner will appear with the option to keep the text as "Rich Text" or paste it as "Plain Text" instead. Click on the latter and Voilà, your post has now been standardized . . .

Hey @Tomchri, I think you forgot XYZ . . .

Let me look and see what my pliers look like.

This next part is pretty sketchy . . . (depending on the interwebs to translate US south'n vernacular into Dutch ) . . . Y'all come now. Ya hear? Kom allemaal. Hoor je het?

Yes, they are pretty crude stamped steel chinesium offering but the thing is that they are a simple tool for a simple task and they work fine, helps squeeze the retaining collar on the QD fuel line connector. Much easier than with fingers, especially if you have big hands and arthritic fingers like me. And they used to be priced accordingly, I got mine for less than $12 on Ebay a while back, now close to $30 Linky

IDK how much they are or if they come in a set. IIRC , the way the coupling works is to push the fuel line into the coupling , then push the inner portion into the outer and allow the line to come off. It may work the first time and it may take 20 attempts before it works. Jus remember to push the connector together before you do anything. There needs to be a video on how to disconnect this. The pliers look like they will work. After buying SnapOn primarily these look like a bargain !

You got that right ! I just finished a 2014 Altima that had a lot of codes. The alt. was putting out 15.54v at all times. Ran a multitude of tests . Found out it had about 4 alternators installed over the years. I tested the hell out of the battery and wiring system . Installed a QUALITY alternator and got a little over 14v at idle and then settled down. I think I read anything over 14.7v and you got troubles!

I wouldn't say "no" to one of them. But only because it was one of the prettiest bikes ever. From any manufacturer. The "parallel" Daytona would do at a pinch too.

Just magnificent!!! Did Moto Guzzi have a name for that stunning yellow besides just "giallo?"

Yes a little involved. Everything serviced. And yes l like my ladys cleaned. 98216km. D IPA time. Cheers Tom. Sent fra min SM-S906B via Tapatalk

Looks like a @gstallons question . . .