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Nice Texas Spine Raid rendezvous and enjoyable lunch at one of our favorite local cafes and not coincidentally also a stop on the Tour of Texas. Great to have you here Eric and Pascal thanks for coming up as well!

Something like this?

Perhaps 70 Ohms is a bad switch. Near zero would be preferable. A simple Test Light, like @gstallons often recommends, would be a way to test the switch: connect test light to positive--> touch probe to bare switch post. Light? Switch good. No light? Bad switch. If we can get the oil light out of the equation by determining it has nothing to do with the charge light, perhaps the search narrows.

I believe so. I clipped the ohm meter to the post at the red arrow in pic below.

@PJPR01, @p6x, @Pressureangle

This is what my DMM shows at all ohm settings between the blue wire and GND.

Dang. So, the oil light is getting power, since it will light when the wire is grounded and the switch looks closed (no resistance from the switch post to ground), but no light . . . Did you completely remove the wire connector to the switch and test the resistance to ground with the switch post bare?

No it does not light up KOEO.

I found my switch post rusty, as well (in spite of my added rubber boot). Did your cleaning that connection allow the oil light to illuminate. now, KOEO?

I also like the original anodized red on the Tenni, same as on the Scura and I think all the variations from 2002 onwards that had "red stillettos." I'm not sure if anyone has figured how to duplicate that finish.

More pics of it in its natural habitat!

Yes I did.

You're seeing the same reading there every time. It is 70 Ohm. It shows up as 70 in the 200 range (i.e. "up to 200") because that is the appropriate range. Appropriate because the actual value is in the same order of magnitude as the range. The 7 in the 2000 range is no doubt also 70 Ohm, but doesn't look like it because the decimal point is at a different place in the display. I was having trouble trying to explain this, so I measured a pair of headphones with the DMM in the workshop here. Set to the 200 range, I see 57.8 and off to the right in the display an Ω symbol. So the display can show 3 digits, and in that range it is showing Ohm. In the 2000 range, I see .058 and off to the right the symbol kΩ So in that range, the display is showing kiloohm to three decimal places, and the value is 58 thousendths of 1 kiloohm = 58 Ohm (rounded up from 57.8) And so it goes on, the device only has a couple of digits to work with, and moves the decimal point and the order of magnitude around to suit the range it is supposed to be measuring. The best way of measuring resistance, if you don't know what you are looking for, is to start at the big end (with the probes connected) and step down through the ranges until you get a sensible reading (a whole number of the unit rather than a couple of thousands of the unit a couple of orders of magnitude bigger). This method is even more important measuring volts: your DMM wont like being exposed to 12 V if it is set to read mV. If in doubt, start at the big end of the available ranges and step down until you get a sensible reading.

You think? My first thought was "overweight Stelvio", but I expect it is just an unflattering photo.

@fastaussie I'm a little late to this game but a few ideas: 1) If you're swapping plates (I like "pork chops", but others either don't like that or prefer "stilettos"), be aware that there seem to be two different versions of the plates with different size swingarm pins (20 vs. 22mm, by my measurement). If you get new-to-you plates, either confirm the correct size for your setup or get the pins with the plates. See 2) I got a set of plates powder coated. They are beautiful, though not presently installed. I wanted to get a visual sense of depth in the finish, so the powder coater shot them with silver first, then cherry red, followed by clear. As pretty as they are, I don't like them as much as the original Tenni anodized chops, as I discovered that I like the comfortable patina of the originals. I also haven't put them back on Bubbles (the champagne Lemans), feeling that's a little like putting lipstick on a pig (Bubbles is cosmetically-challenged). So Bubbles is wearing a pair of darker silver stilettos of unknown provenience. 3) Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I like the "pop" of red chops and valve covers. If we agree that the stilettos and the valve covers are roughly equal in exposed-to-view surface area, then what you're proposing to do is essentially just moving the red spot around on the canvas; no new pop, just the same pop somewhere else. Seems like a lot of effort. But, hey: you do you, as my daughter says.

This looks, to me, like the switch "works" (at least it is closed when there is no oil pressure). Did you say the oil light came on when you grounded that wire while the key was on?

-Jumper wire to black wire to regulator: Battery light gradually came on at 3K rpm, and got brighter towards 4K. -Jumper to white wire to reg at idle and revved got no battery light.

Ohms were, at various DMM settings. (I am stupid, ignorant, uneducated about which is the appropriate or meaningful setting): 70 @ 200 7 @ 2000 0 @ 20K

If you look at the original Moto Guzzi sales literature you will see that the valve covers on RM, Rosso Corsa, and Nero Corsa are a lighter shade of red (approaching orange) then the most common red on the frame plates. When I got my Nero, they had both been painted to match the Nero Corsa script on the tail. But I replaced them with a candy-apple red powder coat set, which is close to the original metallic red but give it a bit more depth and character. And to my eye, is a nicer fit with the Nero. Also note, the angle/lighting makes the parts look different colors, but they are the same (so is the alternator cover).

That's the best looking Tenni deal I've seen in recent memory. $6k / 11k mi. and looks well kept. The clutch swap shouldn't matter. If the owner isn't sure then it likely has not been addressed. Buy it - fix it.

Sport-Norge!

Tired of frequently having to tighten the kickstand bolt, I decided to replace it. To do this, I had to remove the left-hand exhaust to make enough space to take out the Allen bolt and replace it with a hex head. It was also the perfect opportunity to remove VroomHilda's skirts, which I had been wanting to do for a while. Not only does this allow me to showcase the engine, but it also gives me easier access to the oil dipstick and several other components, all while streamlining her appearance. I love the new look and have been building up the courage to make this change for years. Remember: measure fifty-seven times and cut once!

2001 Rossa Mandello for sale. 4k miles. $6000. Long Island, NY. https://www.facebook.com/share/p/1LH7VCqzmS/

The pipes look like Mistral reverse cone mufflers. I had them on a 02 Lemans..They have a kind of raspy sound. first question I’d be asking is “has the potentially exploding clutch been replaced?”

Kapiti kiwi, Have a look at what Penrite has to offer. 100% shear free and full 100% PAO and Ester in 10W-40, 15W-50 and 20W-50. You can't go wrong here. Rob