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Yes, I think so too. I think it might possibly be related to the charge light not coming on KOEO, but I don't think that is the cause of the charging issue(s) either. I still suspect that there are more than one fault, and that this is confusing the issue(s) somewhat.

I felt poor pulling the Krauser Kluge up next to those Sophia Lorens!

Thanks for that, @Joe. There was a Karmann Ghia somewhere in there, which reminded me of this. I haven't ever seen it, just read about it on the Interweb. Sounds like fun, though. https://www.bader-racing.de/en/home/home_news.htm A quote from the site:

Blue wire to ground, I get 34.6Ω. edit: with the oil switch unplugged, I get open circuit "1" from blue wire to ground. Another indication your oil switch is faulty, but not a clue on the charging issue(s). Oil switch post to ground, I get 1.6Ω. This makes me think your oil pressure switch is faulty and the lack of oil light, KOEO, is not related to the charging issue(s).

That looks like an open circuit = no connection. But if that is between the wire itself and ground, that is to be expected. What I'm interested in is not the incoming wire to ground, but the connection that it plugs on to to ground. And under various conditions: key on, engine off. Engine running. Engine running at the revs where the light has been going on. Ideally: connect the DMM, see what it is showing, turn on the key, see what the DMM is showing, start the motor, see what the DMM is showing, slowly increase the revs and observe what the DMM shows during this. What I'm interested in is if the regulator is switching that contact to ground as it should, or at least under which conditions it is doing so.

Nice Texas Spine Raid rendezvous and enjoyable lunch at one of our favorite local cafes and not coincidentally also a stop on the Tour of Texas. Great to have you here Eric and Pascal thanks for coming up as well!

Something like this?

Perhaps 70 Ohms is a bad switch. Near zero would be preferable. A simple Test Light, like @gstallons often recommends, would be a way to test the switch: connect test light to positive--> touch probe to bare switch post. Light? Switch good. No light? Bad switch. If we can get the oil light out of the equation by determining it has nothing to do with the charge light, perhaps the search narrows.

I believe so. I clipped the ohm meter to the post at the red arrow in pic below.

@PJPR01, @p6x, @Pressureangle

This is what my DMM shows at all ohm settings between the blue wire and GND.

Dang. So, the oil light is getting power, since it will light when the wire is grounded and the switch looks closed (no resistance from the switch post to ground), but no light . . . Did you completely remove the wire connector to the switch and test the resistance to ground with the switch post bare?

No it does not light up KOEO.

I found my switch post corroded, as well (in spite of my added rubber boot). Did your cleaning that connection allow the oil light to illuminate. now, KOEO?

I also like the original anodized red on the Tenni, same as on the Scura and I think all the variations from 2002 onwards that had "red stillettos." I'm not sure if anyone has figured how to duplicate that finish.

More pics of it in its natural habitat!

Yes I did.

You're seeing the same reading there every time. It is 70 Ohm. It shows up as 70 in the 200 range (i.e. "up to 200") because that is the appropriate range. Appropriate because the actual value is in the same order of magnitude as the range. The 7 in the 2000 range is no doubt also 70 Ohm, but doesn't look like it because the decimal point is at a different place in the display. I was having trouble trying to explain this, so I measured a pair of headphones with the DMM in the workshop here. Set to the 200 range, I see 57.8 and off to the right in the display an Ω symbol. So the display can show 3 digits, and in that range it is showing Ohm. In the 2000 range, I see .058 and off to the right the symbol kΩ So in that range, the display is showing kiloohm to three decimal places, and the value is 58 thousendths of 1 kiloohm = 58 Ohm (rounded up from 57.8) And so it goes on, the device only has a couple of digits to work with, and moves the decimal point and the order of magnitude around to suit the range it is supposed to be measuring. The best way of measuring resistance, if you don't know what you are looking for, is to start at the big end (with the probes connected) and step down through the ranges until you get a sensible reading (a whole number of the unit rather than a couple of thousands of the unit a couple of orders of magnitude bigger). This method is even more important measuring volts: your DMM wont like being exposed to 12 V if it is set to read mV. If in doubt, start at the big end of the available ranges and step down until you get a sensible reading.

You think? My first thought was "overweight Stelvio", but I expect it is just an unflattering photo.

@fastaussie I'm a little late to this game but a few ideas: 1) If you're swapping plates (I like "pork chops", but others either don't like that or prefer "stilettos"), be aware that there seem to be two different versions of the plates with different size swingarm pins (20 vs. 22mm, by my measurement). If you get new-to-you plates, either confirm the correct size for your setup or get the pins with the plates. See 2) I got a set of plates powder coated. They are beautiful, though not presently installed. I wanted to get a visual sense of depth in the finish, so the powder coater shot them with silver first, then cherry red, followed by clear. As pretty as they are, I don't like them as much as the original Tenni anodized chops, as I discovered that I like the comfortable patina of the originals. I also haven't put them back on Bubbles (the champagne Lemans), feeling that's a little like putting lipstick on a pig (Bubbles is cosmetically-challenged). So Bubbles is wearing a pair of darker silver stilettos of unknown provenience. 3) Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. Personally, I like the "pop" of red chops and valve covers. If we agree that the stilettos and the valve covers are roughly equal in exposed-to-view surface area, then what you're proposing to do is essentially just moving the red spot around on the canvas; no new pop, just the same pop somewhere else. Seems like a lot of effort. But, hey: you do you, as my daughter says.

This looks, to me, like the switch "works" (at least it is closed when there is no oil pressure). Did you say the oil light came on when you grounded that wire while the key was on?

-Jumper wire to black wire to regulator: Battery light gradually came on at 3K rpm, and got brighter towards 4K. -Jumper to white wire to reg at idle and revved got no battery light.

Ohms were, at various DMM settings. (I am stupid, ignorant, uneducated about which is the appropriate or meaningful setting): 70 @ 200 7 @ 2000 0 @ 20K