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It is hard for me to fathom e-commerce as a valid avenue to purchase something as personal, and expensive, as a motorcycle. Maybe because I am such a sliver, and unimportant, market segment that "marries" my selections. I remember a time that, "An enthusiast is worth ten sales." I had thought that was a Ford Motor Company phrase, but IDK for sure. That Moto Guzzi still exists at all, and has plans to move forward, yet amazes me.

Hey, if Amazon makes a deal with them, Piaggio will be required to actually produce the parts they catalog and deliver them before the next generation of bikes is released.

"And now at-home servicing by Amazon!!!"

I have zero confidence in anything substantive coming from this.

With my 2013 1200 8v Griso installing the Beetle map smoothed out the idle, cured the popping on deceleration, made the throttle less twitchy ( mostly noticable in a corner trying to balance the suspension ) & improved the mpg. In my opinion a good investment

Interesting take on "improving" the Moto Guzzi dealership network. One thing for certain, there will never be a substitute for the ingenuity and generosity of fellow enthusiasts . . .

I found the full history of C.E.V. on an Italian website, and they also offer a translation in English... the company starts in 1906. The actual name is HB4 Here's the link to the website:

Went thru the needle hole today, licensed in squarehead country )( KGB is a piece of cake ) D IPA time. Cheers Tom Sent fra min SM-A505FN via Tapatalk

The last 2 years I've been busy with others to work on diagnosics for the guzzi ECU and now reflashing it too. First diagostics, Guzzidiag can diagnose all Guzzi ecu, from p7 to 5am. All values were checked agains my Axone. Needed is a vag 409.1 cable with a Fiat adapter. 20$ on ebay. Software is here and needs no instalation, linux and apple version too. http://www.von-der-salierburg.de/download/GuzziDiag/ You can set errors and tps with the ecu's that can do that: a typical screen, langage can be set in options. Now we work on the programming of the 15m and 15rc ecu as found on the V11. The tool to download the ecu map is ready Editing the map is done woth Tunerpro, an free map editing program. The config so that it understands the Guzzi map can you get from me. http://www.tunerpro.net/download/SetupTunerProFree_v500_8075.exe And the upload tool is reday. Further we try to collect all types of guzzi maps to get a library, so mail downloaded maps to guzzidiag@gmail.com A view of how editing works:

Hi... So I has a few hours, and now my wheel and swingarm are on the garage floor... The long bolt holding the shock to the swingarm is bent like a banana. I am heavy, but I don't think this was me. Can I get a replacement? Or what are the specs? A few other observations: The wheel bearing on the drive side of the wheel was loose, found it floating about in the bevel box after knocking the axle out. It is 47mm OD. It is knackered, so I'm slightly worried the 47mm replacement I have ordered will also be loose. I pumped both UJs full of red'n'tacky, whereby it pushed all the old grease out, but on the spline zerk I felt like I was pumping forever and never saw any grease coming out anywhere. I wasn't too worried because I coated the splines before assembly anyway. There is some slight rotational play in the driveshaft before it picks up drive, there is no play in either UJ, or the splines, so it that just the gearbox? All in all though, not a bad job, helps to have the tool kit, but nothing in the toolkit fits the big swingarm locknuts??? Are they just supposed to be hand tight? 😁

Good question, I think there's a bit of give on there (rightly or wrongly). If I spin the bolt the other end moves up and down, and the shock end also moves slightly. It may be worth looking out for a swingarm anyway as mine is terribly rusty. Good shout on the bolt, I found a stockist of M12x160 12.9 (marine shop) so may try new as they're cheap.

That's a good question! At one South'n SpineRaid we declared the TechSession would be to measure the offset of every SpineFrame we could sneak up on. Thinking they would all be "offset" to the right - they were all over the place! Then, the observation that the best set-up SpineFrames did not have their swingarms "offset." I saw that my painstaking laser method had my offset something like 0.030". I put that down to method error! So, now I wind the pivots in until they capture the swingarm bearing inner races with equal tension and equal depth ("Standoff" of the exposed threaded portion), then relieve the lateral tension on the bearing (proper freeplay). That last bit from our trusted member @gstallons who deals with these sorts of things on a daily basis.

https://www.leccoonline.com/articolo.php?idd=61639&origine=1&t='I+100+anni+dell'Aquila'%3A+una+mostra+itinerante+e+un+libro+per+raccontare+la+Moto+Guzzi...+con+uno+sguardo+nuovo

I searched the Workshop Manual for a torque spec on those lock nuts, but no. It does illustrate measuring the standoff of the pivot pins before removal with a caliper to return them to that position. I have painstakingly done this in the past, even using a laser to align the front and rear. Yet found that the swingarm is basically centered in the frame side plates with a slight relief of any lateral load on the center of the bearing race. Good luck with your SKF. I also knew them to be "decent quality" before the last SKF (I'll ever buy) failed on me almost immediately. They lasted long enough to give me a 310 mile tow truck ride. I now know that my rear wheel bearing spacer was 112mm and not the correct 113mm, but my bearings had been going 15-20,000 miles. Not a couple hundred! Upon comparing to the KOYO, the inner race of the SKF looks very "underbuilt."

I suspect that already happened, as it's got an aftermarket shock in there. I *think* SKF are decent quality, I went for SKF 6204-2RSH/C3

The shock mount bolt is 12.9 hardness. The swingarm lock nuts are 30mm (I see that I had to add a 30mm socket to my toolset).

Moto Guzzi/Piaggio web store

That's what I was thinking; as the Beetle map made such an improvement to Griso's not performance as such, useability (?). I was thinking of installing Meinolf's map on the V11.

I used Rust Oleum brand Aircraft Remover to get the textured paint off a 2002 engine, tranny, and final drive. Stubborn spots still took a few applications. Incidentally, I have an epoxy painted garage floor, and this is the only thing I have spilled on it that did immediate damage to that floor - including brake fluid and other paint strippers. A decent paint job should last a while. If you DIY and save some paint, you can spot-paint over damage later.

I have a new theory for you, based on my experience with a Greenie. FWIW, I bought it for cheap, because the PO gave up on getting it to run. It had symptoms similar as you describe, and eventually.... I found it. The fuel lines had started to decompose from the inside, most importantly, the main line from petcock to pump. Bits of rubber had partially blocked the inlet to the pump. Sort of like having a slow drain in the bathroom sink, which drains eventually, but not as fast as it should. In my Greenie's case, it would sputter at about 2500 RPM because the pump couldn't push the fuel through fast enough. New fuel lines... bam, perfect runner. I have heard that decomposing fuel lines can also create internal flaps that will act like valves to restrict fluid flow. Not seen that myself, but worth considering. Bottom line... if you have never done so, consider replacing all the rubber fuel lines.

My Guzzi makes 77 hp at the rear wheel. It's an 1100, not a 900 Sportster. But it doesn't have new cams, intake, exhaust & valves jobs. Buell was able to get those engines to go.

"Gråkråkan" (grey crow) in swedish, or "L'aquila griglia" in it's mother tongue.

68C, thanks for spending. I'm trying the other way, copying the 15m maps in a 15rc ecu. My wireloom is from a v11 Kat, so has the one extra wire for the lambda. But a 15m will never do Lambda regulation. I know there are a few different hardware versions of the 15m, the letter behind the 15m could be a8 or something else. I know the ducati people speak of with sidestandswitch or not depending of the ecu variation. Maybe they just work. ducati is 15M.A8 or 15M.A0, on guzzi I've seen 15M.C1 and 15M.C5. But anyway if a ducati ecu doesn't work, just write back the original map and than it can go. And let us know so anyone knows. Most closed loop ecu's only close the loop in certain conditions. Most when constant speed is used. At the moment you open the throttle, it's not regulating.