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New part for shift linkage?

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If you own a V11 you need to do this .

So, are we going to finally see a complete and tested conversion kit?

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If you own a V11 you need to do this .

So, are we going to finally see a complete and tested conversion kit?

 

I'm not going to do it until riding season is over. Maybe Footgoose will be the pioneer, and I can copy what he does. (no thinking, my kind of job)  :grin:

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I got some work done on the spring swap. Some of my pics didn't come out, so the preferred sequence will be messed up, but I will get some more taken when I take this apart again, prior to final assembly.

IMG_0351.JPG

there is a lot of thread showing because I am not using the final assembly lock nut just yet. You can see where I cut away the casting rib so the bolt on the arm will clear. I don't have a mill. I used a Roto Zip (Dremmel)

IMG_0354.JPG

there is just a light pre-load at this position.

IMG_0353.JPG

from the outside, this is the countersunk 8-32 s/s bolt, flush with the face. It's the small one, about 1/4" allen head

IMG_0356.JPG

this shows my "stack of stuff" on the bolts. I'll lay that out in the next post.

IMG_0355.JPG

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Thanks for doing this. Watching with great interest.

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Great pics but is there a reason why you didn't just use the existing pin on the arm to hook the spring on to?

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Is there any chance of including a picture of the original spring in place as a reference?

 

Thanks

Roy

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If you own a V11 you need to do this .

 

I thought the pawl spring issue was due to any incorrect boss or something?

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If you own a V11 you need to do this .

 

I thought the pawl spring issue was due to any incorrect boss or something?

 

They break even with the correctly sized boss.

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I thought I read that you can get the spring in both dimensions, one to fit the correct boss and one to fit the incorrect boss?

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Would you put a piece or rubber hose or something over the spring to keep it from possibly vibrating and fatiguing? I've seen that a lot on sidestand and other springs. 

 

I thought about placing a pair of rare earth magnet(s) opposing each other, one on the lever and one on a bracket on the cover, to give a little push to the lever if the spring ever breaks. Haven't engineered placement or brackets yet but I think it would work to get the bike home if the spring broke. If it really worked you might not even realize the spring was gone.

 

Just an idea for now. If I ever do it I will post some pics in case anyone is interested,

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Great pics but is there a reason why you didn't just use the existing pin on the arm to hook the spring on to?

 

 

Is there any chance of including a picture of the original spring in place as a reference?

 

Thanks

Roy

 

 

 KiwiRoy here's a pic of both springs in place

 

Steve S - the reason I didn't hook it there is the extension spring coil I used would hit the back of the selector cog. I also thought about hooking the other end of the spring through a small hole drilled in the nearby casting ridge, but was worried about too much friction/wear with all the movement.

IMG_0359.JPG

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That looks like a good application for "Nyloc" nuts.

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I thought I read that you can get the spring in both dimensions, one to fit the correct boss and one to fit the incorrect boss?

 

I have had two 2002's. Both had the 16+mm arm boss. One spring broke at 10k mi. I fixed both. The "upgrade" springs I got from MGCycle in 2015 were exactly the same as what I took out of my bikes. I had also read here the incorrect 16mm boss was a "bad batch" sometime around 2002.

 

My recommendation is, anyone with a 2002 needs to get in there and check that boss size. IMO the spring can not survive on the larger boss. If you think you're in the clear or know your boss size is the correct 15mm, you should still, always, carry an extra new spring. I would carry the roadside repair tool kit as well.

 

For those not familiar, when the spring breaks, there is no warning. You are stuck in whatever gear you were in when it snapped.

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