Jump to content
IGNORED

Fuel Injection, stream or spray?


LaGrasta
 Share

Recommended Posts

I had a hard time starting my greenie, never could figure it out, on it's last ride, it took 15 minutes to start, had to put it on the battery charger after a while.  I had a couple of different maps loaded, all the same. Once warm, no issues, started first time.  Replaced one of the injectors to no help.  It could be as simple as a little more fuel for cold starts.  I've been working on my Alfa Milano with a GoTech MFI injection system, so I'm learning a lot about cold start.

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I also did the home brew injector cleaning, there is a $20 injector tester that will open and close the injectors, I hooked up a low pressure pump and ran seafoam through the injectors (1 at a time) while in an ultrasonic cleaner (no heat).  Did great on my Bosch L-Jet injectors, also did my Quota injectors. You can inspect the patterns before and after and see an improvement.  Just FYI, don't try to use straight Lucas injector cleaner, way too thick, could not pump it.

  • Like 1
  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thia is why I sent mine off to a rebuilder . They sent them back with a bunch of specs. Flow , pressure drop , etc. They will send you a matched set if yours do not match or come (and I mean) close .

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I just got off the phone with https://www.mrinjector.us Super nice guy! Not only is his service thorough, it is literally the most affordable one I found, $18 each, plus $8 shipping.

So here is the answer we previously could not confirm. Our injectors are meant to have a stream, with very little spray pattern when under pressure.

  • Like 2
  • Thanks 2
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I rented an injector noid test set from the auto parts store this past weekend. Each side is being signaled correct. So it has fuel, electric injector signaling, and proper injector spray. Not sure what else to inspect.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi,

OK, I'm late to the party but after reading up to this point has me wondering about the fuel quality.  When I've had starting issues with my carb bikes I'll check for fuel (fresh & flowing), fire (good spark) & compression ( if it gets that far).

My V11 LeMans has the factory program in it as far as I know, it has always required high cam throttle engagement (aka choke) and a slight throttle roll during cold start cranking it then will roar to life otherwise it will attempt to start but stall.

So, that's my 2¢ worth. 

Hope you're able to get your bikes up & running without too much more heartburn.

Art

 

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

thanks @guzziart The choke may very well be at fault. It doesn't stay on without my holding it which is difficult while I also pull the clutch and press the "go" button. With your emphasis, I'll double check it's linkage/cable to ensure engagement. Maybe I can adjust it so it stays on by itself as well.

Admittedly living in SoCal, the importance of a choke has lost its importance compared to when I also lived in Ohio, Youngstown.

Link to comment
Share on other sites

Hi LaGrasta,

Hey, there is another thread here somewhere that discusses swapping the throttle high cam spring with the seat lock spring in the seat tail section.  The stiffer of the two springs belongs to the seat lock release, the lesser of the two goes on the high cam return.  My understanding is MG goofed and installed the springs in the wrong locations.

  • Like 3
  • Sad 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

I must be desperate, lol! This is a reach, but both are easy to access, so I'll check it out. Thanks!

Link to comment
Share on other sites

So, help me out, here, with some history on this V11 . . .

You have never seen it run? The classic, "Ran when parked scenario?" And it was stored in a cool, dry place, or under a tarp behind the shed? For how long?

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

11 hours ago, LaGrasta said:

thanks @guzziart The choke may very well be at fault. It doesn't stay on without my holding it which is difficult while I also pull the clutch and press the "go" button. With your emphasis, I'll double check it's linkage/cable to ensure engagement. Maybe I can adjust it so it stays on by itself as well.

Admittedly living in SoCal, the importance of a choke has lost its importance compared to when I also lived in Ohio, Youngstown.

The choke is nothing but a throttle kicker to increase the idle speed .

  • Thanks 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Thanks @docc 10k mile bike, ran when parked, stored for over a decade  in a man cave in San Diego. After going through it, it starts and runs while spraying starter fluid in the air cleaner. 

My next steps will be to crank the bike with the injectors removed and certify fuel being delivered. Then, with plugs removed, certify spark being delivered.

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

on and off numerous times. It's off now in fact, as I had to once again remove the injectors to ensure they were cleaned proper.

2003V11.jpg

tankoffleft.jpg

  • Like 1
Link to comment
Share on other sites

Join the conversation

You can post now and register later. If you have an account, sign in now to post with your account.

Guest
Reply to this topic...

×   Pasted as rich text.   Paste as plain text instead

  Only 75 emoji are allowed.

×   Your link has been automatically embedded.   Display as a link instead

×   Your previous content has been restored.   Clear editor

×   You cannot paste images directly. Upload or insert images from URL.

Loading...
 Share

×
×
  • Create New...