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Good luck Doc... I've also got a RARE free weekend coming up....(ssshhh fingers crossed)! The weather looks to be coming to the party too but don't want to bugger it by assuming the Met bureau has it right this time! May have to appease ole Bacchus and sacrifice some brain cells later on... just so he can put in a good word to Jupiter for us!!

Today is mySport's 23rd anniversary, but too much rain and too many patients to ride. Hopefully Saturday before the heat index goes crazy. I did review my latest maintenance notes. What I am calling my 130,000mile/210.000 km service - The last ten weeks and two thousand miles brought just about every service interval together: tires, all brakes/pads, all hydraulics (including clutch master rebuild), complete "Decent Tune-up" (with a new TPS), tank off with air/fuel filters, oil/filter, and truly-and-actually greased "that farking front U-ee !"

Success! I now have two fully functional and great looking gauges! After utilizing the work bench and the housing I was able to get the bolts aligned and the lock nuts tightened with some locktite. After which I was able to get the back housing on and fasten it with the original four nuts. It definitely took a lot of trial and error to get the appropriate depth of the bolts and alignment. One tip is once I was close to where bolts needed to be, I marked the back of the gauge so that I could line them back up if I accidentally moved it while adjusting, which happened quite a bit. I set the tach to 2 PPR and confirmed it was very accurate with Guzzidiag. I programmed the odometer to the same mileage as on the stock gauge. I went for a short test ride and all functioned extremely well. I still need to take out the old speedometer cable and plug it up. I received the bolt from Zoro this afternoon. Thanks everyone for the help on this task! Here are a couple final pictures. I will update with some night pics later on.

I do like that definition Phil, and the very astute introduction of the concept of design as opposed to Art when it comes to objects with a physical functionality. The trouble with definitions is that sometimes the line gets blurry, for example with that painting you hang on the wall to cover a hole, it’s not Art to you because you have given it a physical function, but a person looking at that same painting not knowing about the hole in the wall could still see it as Art. Again all very dependent on the audience / the eye of the beholder. And I don’t think you could call that “wall patch” design either... By the same token, the “motorcycle” that I posted a picture of earlier, it is obvious that its physical functionality is so very limited that if you were to attribute it with the “design” epithet it would have to be preceded by “bad”. So, could it be Art? Blurry lines indeed. Like Tom would say, its double IPA time.

My latest slideshow videos:

Define "art" well here's a definition I've thought of. If it's functional it's not "art" it's "design". In other words as soon as it has a "function" and by that I mean a physical function as opposed to an emotional function it's NOT art. Art is not designed to be physically functional. So it therefore follows if you hang a painting to cover a hole in the wall it is no longer "art" but a wall patch. Seems logical to this engineer. I think I'm fairly happy with that admitted "thought bubble". Phil

We can trust AI right? I searched my IPhone photos for art. Out of about 1500 pics it chose 45 as art. Most were rooms with paintings hanging. A bunch of dog faces (I approve) and a couple of my house. One motorcycle. Maybe it liked the red squares. idk. Settled science. Anyone have a Chat GPT account? It's a useful and interesting feature though possibly overly OCD. While typing the search a prompt appeared for Arthropod - 1 It selected a squashed brown wooly worm I photo'd.

That's where all my ideas come from Shiraz and Merlot. Phil

My old sensor leaked just enough to bother me. It appeared to be through the sensor, not around the o-ring. I washed it in IPA, & heated it over 100°C with a heat gun a few times. While it was hot I brushed epoxy resin all over the sensor and blew the excess off with the heat gun & a rag. As it cooled, some resin wicked into crevices in the sensor. It seemed to work. As for putting any gasket goo on an o-ring, I believe that's a bad idea. One or other is fine, but if the sealant doesn't stick to the o-ring, then you have added another leak path, and inhibited the O-ring's ability to keep sealing with thermal movement.

The only differences between the short and long frame bikes in that area that I'm aware of is the added gearbox mount arms and the larger dia swingarm pivot boss threads. It's possible that the bikes have slightly different ride heights and therefore slightly different front universal joint angles. A slight change in the universal joint angle may make a big difference in getting the grease fitting to attach. Just a thought. Phil

A fine bit of abstact expressionism there mate....!

I use Chat GTP every day solely for translating emails - much better than Google Translate, especially for more technical topics.

Whose buttons would they be pushing if they didn't have an audience? Like the rest of the people, there are all kind of artists and not all "creative folks" set out to "push other peoples' buttons". In fact I believe that some of the best Art comes from folks with only a need for self-expression, a need to create and realize their vision through their skills. If that creation finds an audience, it might be considered Art. It's when that audience grows exponentially that egos can get over bloated. Human nature I guess, or as we say in French "Chase (human) nature and it will come back galloping".

I found this very thought provoking. At first, I disagreed and pondered artists that create for their own edification without regard to anyone's interest in their "art." Yet, I could not think of any artist I know, or have learned of, that wasn't seeking to "push other peoples' buttons " to whatever end; could be enlightenment, could be aggravation. Art is to be evocative/ "pushes buttons." In fact, any artists I know have rather large egos that depend on that evocation.

Nothing wrong with that, mate.

True, so to support my logic I would need an arrow on the wall and signage "hole behind" or some such wording. Phil

I might have to have an extra glass of shiraz later on too....

Today's programme: On the way to the garage, I went past a local ironmonger shop and picked up a 14 mm Hex key 1/2" drive socket. When I got to the garage, I discovered that it didn't fit into the end of the axle. Closer inspection revealed that some ham-fisted moron had belted the end of the axle so hard with a steel hammer that the socket was deformed inwards, and the head of the axle was deformed outwards so much that it was stuck in the swing arm. A bit of controlled violence on my part with a copper hammer and a block of wood got it out, hopefully without bending anything. Incidentally, the nut on the other end of the axle was definately no where near 120 NM tightening torque. Further: one of the wheel bearings is pretty grotty, and both the swingarm bearings. The front uni-joint doesn't feel good. It has a "stop" in the middle in one direction, sort of like what happens to head-stem bearings when they start going west. And the rear shock looks like it is leaking. On the good side, the front torque arm bolt was nicely greased and looks good as new, and the "hidden" roller bearing in the final drive also looks good. I was worried about the swing-arm bolts as I took them out; they both felt 'orrible. However, a bit of patience and working the threads back and forth with liberal applications of Ballistol got them cleaned up. Does anyone happen to know a manufacturer and part number for the uni-joints?

@docc I ended up taking mine off today. 2002 Le Mans, long frame. The front collar has the same dimensions as what you have quoted here for yours.

I measured a set I bought off Pinwall a while back, and they are the same measurement as yours Docc. Listed as 2001 V11, so it must be true. (short frame) Paul B

Yeah, this thing is really kicking my butt!! I don't know what I'm missing. I regret tossing out the oem sensor without measuring the thickness of the baseplate maybe it was more substantial (thicker) than the aftermarket piece I bought. Or maybe the O.D. of the sensor is slightly larger than the original. I'll certainly give it a try again and more closely scrutinize what I'm doing. I have a baggie of 112's from Mcmaster Carr so, no shortage of orings. I've installed crank seals, input/output shaft seals, head & base gaskets, crankcase gaskets, valve cover gaskets, rear drive seals& gaskets, etc.....no leaks!! This simple oring sensor seal is driving me nuts! Well, that and the right fork leak on my Eldo but I'll whine & complain about that to the Loop Frame Group. Thanks for listening. Art

Yes, I'm aware of that. One has to be absolutely sure that the bolt lines up with the thin spot on the shaft.

Yesterday I read through two very long threads here. What I noticed is that practically no-one stipulates whether they had or have the bike on the side-stand or on some kind of lift. For the record: my V11 Le Mans, built in 2002, long tank, wrinkle paint on the motor, black gauges, was on a Becker lifter when I was looking at the front grease nipple situation. So the back wheel was off the ground, and the angle of the front uni-joint was as "open" as it can get without undoing screws. I had the feeling that I maybe could have got onto the front nipple. Grease gun has a straight connector, but a flexible hose. In the end, I decided not to pursue it. Taking out the wheel is a good idea anyway, as there are a couple of other things that would benefit from being looked at. @docc, the collar in your photo doesn't seem to have any holes in the sides of it. Mine does, such that I could probably undo the pinch bolts without removing the collar. I'll be in the garage later, and will try and measure the collar in situ, but don't really expect to see numbers different from what has already been quoted here. A thought came to me: maybe the collar is the same, but Guzzi used a different nipple on earlier models compared to the later ones. I.e. they figured out it was a bastard to get to, and changed to a different nipple.

64.2 ish mm front collar on my long frame 2003.

Truly awesome and impressive docc - congratulations on #23!

Now I have to measure to the 10th of a mm!

ID 65.8mm on 2003 model rear collar

Took it into the office... Bit fresh on the way in and windy on the trip home but rode the tripe out of her in the fun 40 kays! I think she enjoyed the dance as much as I did. Cheers

I am certain the #112 O-ring is an approximation for those of us in the SAE world and the actual sensor O-ring is metric and of a particular durometer. I have no way of divining either of those things. It is not beyond Moto Guzzi's manufacturing standards that any particular casting could have enough flaw to fault sealing. Worth a careful inspection of the seating areas of the surface and the bore where the sensor resides . . .

Yessir, that #112 works. I am not sure what the actual metric size is. Use Nitrile (Buna-N), or Viton instead of plumbing parts. Be careful not to use so much sealant that it changes the spacing of the sensor from the timing wheel. These sensor have been reported to leak through the wiring. My ugly JB Weld repair has remained effective for many years/miles: