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So, on the way "home from work" today, I stopped off in Königsbronn and bought this.

Do you think my tank looks too big?

You could do either one, or just fill it back up and see if it developes any nasty noises. I dare say that if there is any serious damage in there, it will become acoustically obvious pretty quickly. If it's broken, it's already broken, and if it's not, continuing to ride it with fresh oil will not do any damage.

After reading through this thread, I wonder if the bits I've put onto the Sfida have only resulted in detracting from the beauty of the original design. In many ways its become a bitsa but the whole topic is subjective. When rebuilding it back up I couldn't help but notice many of the components were less than ideal and I installed after market parts. Also spent a lot of time trying to undo bodges and there were quite a few. There wasn't any grand plan, but I'm very happy with it as it is now. Thank you for all the "likes"

It's been a while, so i am following up subsequent to all the great help i received getting this salty old gal sweet again. She didn't get roadworthy without a fight. The fuel pump develped a leak coming off the positive post, so replaced it with one of those $27 Osias that are sold elsewhere for $48. The Osias has a whine that is annoying, is this characterisitc of this brand? Is there a quieter pump available? And, i thought i'd save a buck and not listen to the advice that the breather hose from MGC cracks. Bought one, cracked immediately. So, i just installed the $tein-DinSe hose a couple days ago. Took her out for the first real ride earlier today, and how i do i love this LeMans! I can see i need to get a Roper slosh plate. I'll post some pics from when i go out next. Next is to re-engineer how the mounts fit to the bike that came with the bike for atttaching Givi Monokey bags.

If it "clicks", it is not the clutch bullet connectors. If they are at fault, there will be > nothing <.

Still check in here frequently and if I can contribute I usually try. Had it out yesterday to get its annual roadworthy test and it still puts a smile on my ugly mug. A little worried that the MOT tester was calling me Mad Max though

If you want to watch an epic MotoGP, one for the books, then watch the replay of the French GP today! I do not want to spoil it; however, the attendance record was smashed for the first time since the number of spectators was divulged. They blew through the 300k ceiling of last year, which was already the record attendance, for all GPs. But today's race will remain in history for multiple reasons. I leave you to watch it...

This takes you to the "answer" post with links to the latest "Best (micro) Relay." The Pickers Components narrowly better than the CIT:

I did not specify it, but you obviously need to add a fuse between the Relay and the Solenoid; As for the relays, on this forum, there is a huge discussion about which and what. I can't look it up now, as I have a problem on my Quota that needs urgent looking....

Nawww . That is ugly PERIOD

Hey Guys, Mine does not click at all on particular position. For example, rotated on the left, it does not click, no life. Dash board lights go off a little. When I rotate it to the right, it just starts. So I assume, its the bullet connectors

That has been mentioned a couple of times, and now one more time. I had a look at those on mine, and can only confirm the advice to check them regularly. The "bullet" type connector is one that is inclined to get loose with time, and those ones on the V11 are in a dumb place into the bargain. Whatever else you do, look at them first. I agree with that, in the sense of getting the existing systems in good order, or as good as possible, before you start doing mods that might not address the actual issue. The reservation is, it is possible that the bike might not start every time at the first button push even if everything is in good order. Mine doesn't. However, the "not starting" is not a complete failure to do anything when the button is pushed. That would be a symptom that points to, for instance, the aforementioned bullet connectors (along with the fact that the steering position makes a difference, as already mentioned in other posts). What mine does is the classic "startus interruptus": Sometimes it starts fine, sometimes it just clicks. A few more jabs on the button, and clicks, and then it starts. The position of the steering makes no difference. The problem is that not enough volts get through to the solenoid on the starter. I've measured that on mine, and it is the case. I've done a clean-up on the electrics on the bits that are easy to get to, and the problem got better, but it is still there. The solution is either go through electrics from start to finish and bring every single connector back to as new condition, or install the additional relay as described further up. The plan is to add the additional relay, but I have a couple of other issues that are more urgent. Putting the forks back in when I get them back from the workshop, for instance, and finding out why it runs so badly on a constant throttle.

As challenging as the V11 Sport/LeMans tank shape is to fathom whilst integrated with the rest of the original design, it is quite an abomination all by itself! Might as while mount up a Quat-D exhaust for "balance" . . . And the battery and the relays and the fuses and the ECU . . . oh, my!

Mate, yours is a gem. Here's some pictures for future generations who might read this after the ad has been taken down. The bike in question (one can actually see the green on the tank where the spray-can grey has worn off) and the seat sub-frame in red and a photo of parts showing the green front mud-guard.

If you pour something through to rinse the box through the drain hole, does any metal swarf come out that would indicate damage?

I see the ad is "ended", and a further look at all the photos indicates that the poor thing was once a Greenie. One can only hope that she has been passed on to someone with enough decency to restore her to her former glory.

The Neodymium magnet makes all the difference!!! Seriously, the Guzzi original one cost about 14 USD from the usual places. Then you need to also add the shipping. Here, they built the shipping into the price, so all in all, it's the same. The main difference, Votex has it in stock, while the others have to order it after you pay. Delivery in June! I want to fix that Quota as fast as possible.

I have actually shimmed things... I have run Electrical Submersible Pumps in oil wells. You do that when the well is not eruptive, and when you want to have a better flow rate than from those horse head pumps that you see in the movies... You assembled these pumps vertically, when you run them in hole. Since the actual assembly you run in hole is made of various elements, the first element that goes in is the electrical motor. On top of it comes the protector, and on top is the pump itself. Each of these elements have to be shimmed in order for the spline shafts to not bear the weight from the outer housing. I believe the shimming that takes place in the final drive of the Guzzi is based on the same principle. I went through the workshop manual, and the entire procedure is extremely well explained! For example, the torque value of the oil plugs are given, using the older metric unit mkg. 3 mkg for filler plugs, and 2.5 mkg for level and drain plugs. 25 Nm and 29 Nm respectively. The spacing, or shimming, procedure is not described, but the principle is the same as for the ESP above. You don't want the gearing to be compressed when you torque the sides. I guess it is a trial and error job. You torque it, and check the rotation to make sure it is free to turn. I have downloaded the manual, since it can be used for the V11. Some of the special tools could probably be built.

I managed to find this detailed imaged of the brake side emphasizing the "Make-damn-sure Zip-tie " and the location of the "Little ball." Pretty sure, on the clutch side it is a little plastic puck as the switch actuator, but still too easy to let fall out . . .

By the way, does anyone need the Griso 1100 muffler shown in the picture above? The bloke who had the fairing part for sale also had that, and was so dead set on getting rid of it that he gave it to me. The number on it is ZGU1001 So if anyone needs it, and thinks the delivery costs from Germany to wherever are worth it, it's up for grabs. Just for the cost of delivery, or come an pick it up in Leipzig.

Must be good, then, eh.

Yes. I took the final drive from my V35 Imola to the workshop when I rebuilt it for exactly that reason. I feel it is a job that should probably be done by someone who has a bit of experience, and has a "feel" for it. And a bucket of shims to swap them in and out until it is right. Having said that, I gather it is not actually all that difficult. The older workshop manuals explain it fairly well. For instance here, on page 93. https://guzzitek.org/atelier/gb/1000/1000SP_G5_Atelier(F)V3.pdf PS: I think there are also a couple of "special tools" involved.

Buddy , you need to go over this bike w/a fine tooth comb and tighten EVERYTHING and top off all fluids.

LU REDLINE Synth Gearoil 75W90 GL5/1 says the invoice....

Well , you need to include ALL symptoms too. What was this mention about dash lights ?

I wouldn't be worried about that, it just shows the testers ignorance. The bikes in the film were all Z900 or Z1000 Kawasakis, except for the one Z650, and Max Rockatansky didn't even ride a bike. The cop on the bike was Jim Goose. No, wait, the one that Jim Goose rode in on with his leg in plaster was a Kawasaki 2 stroke triple, a 400, I think. PS: very pretty bike you have. Please look after it well.

Here is one by @Kiwi_Roy courtesy os @Weegie's DropBox: https://www.dropbox.com/scl/fo/no8adkie1sl6frnc2qmm8/ALzrUXsngCqMRtfMR1cXedE?dl=0&e=1&preview=Startus+Innteruptus.jpg&rlkey=8x5byzd4ux3107610i22ig5v6&st=3xbx7rbu Yet, because your steering position affects starting, do not overlook the faulty connections of the clutch switch at the nefarious "bullet connectors" at the left side of the frame spine beneath the tank.

OK. So they ‘Design and machine countless custom parts’. Why then do all their bikes look exactly the same? Few, if any of them, have any air filtration and their HP figures are the usual fantasy bullshit to mug the punters. I’m sorry, it’s been done to death, again and again and again. Sure their execution is better than Joe Blow brush painting his ruined SP but it’s still the same shit. Sorry. I hate it. What makes a bike like Phil’s, or Paul Minaert’s outstanding is the attention to detail and the ‘Outside the box’ thinking and effort that goes into them and they still look outstanding and WORK! The usual response to me criticising things like this is that “You couldn’t do it yourself”! Damn f*cking straight I couldn’t! I have neither the skill or the patience to embark on such a project. I did, back around the middle of the first decade of this century build a short stroke roundfin that produced 80+ hp on a couple of Dino’s but it was only 891cc and it had to rev to nearly 10,000 RPM to do so. At those sorts of engine speeds, even though the MEPS was fine it torched its big ends regularly through oil pump cavitation! In 2006 I bought an 1100 Griso and it did everything my little hot rod did but was a turn-key machine! It also handled better, even without work on the suspension, and didn’t run its big ends with tiresome regularity! Looked far better than those tiresome two wheeled ‘Artworks’ too. Look if you like that sort of thing? All power to you. I’m sure that whoever runs that business is far richer than I’ll ever be. I prefer just finding problems and solving them to make a good product better rather than making fantasies for rich dimbulbs who will probably ‘Ride’ their bikes once or twice a year. Im strange like that though……

My aim when modifying a motorcycle docc is to enhance the original concept with better components and create something that is unique but looks like it could have come out of the factory. So not trying to create a "racer" out of a tourer or GT bike and no just stripping it down and making it an uncomfortable, impractical and often illegal bike for the road. There needs to be balance, and an elegance about it and the retention of the original bikes DNA and character. This is why my V11 Sport for instance still retains the non radial callipers. Radial callipers would mean Aprilia RSV forks and a different front guard and that would have eliminated part of the V11 Sports recognisable aesthetic signature. Hanging gaudy aftermarket bit's off it is something i like to avoid as well. Phil

Let's face it, re-making a motorcycle successfully is not a matter for amateurs, the faint-hearted, or commercial venture. For the outcome to touch the heart and capture totality, some combination of skill, vision, experience, tools, and a certain amount of reverence must combine with resources, time, dedication and perseverance. I offer this case in point:

Amazing, sticky tooth-mesh ("pressure angle" ) grease. Doesn't fling off the hub like my (otherwise trusted) BelRay WaterProof grease. [representative image. The squeamish should avert their eyes] . . .

Another thing that makes it much more difficult to safely work out any modifications to the mapping of the MP11 compared to earlier devices is quite simply down to the size of the maps/data it contains. I was chatting briefly with Mark the other day and can’t remember the exact figures, I’ll ask him again next time we meet and pay more attention, but the 7SM as used on bikes like the Cali 1400’s and early V85’s contains vast amounts more data and many more ‘Unknown’ parameters than the simpler ECUs of yore like the 15M and W5AM but then the MP11 is orders of magnitude larger again! Really, it’s huge! Not only that there are huge swathes of files and info inside it that will controll not only the fuelling and spark but the ride by wire parameters and safety features, the heat related advance decay curves and hosts of other things that unless you not only know what they do but how they interact with each other could be not only damaging but downright dangerous to be messing with. Apparently Alientech has some sort of software that allows access to the MP11 but from what I could gather from talking to Mark it is ECU and map specific meaning that if you do purchase it you need to pay some form of licence fee for each ecu or map it interacts with. I may be off the ball with this as it is way, way above my pay grade but the main take-away seemed to be that building a map for an individual MP11 was going to be hideously expensive! Up in the high hundreds of dollars! Per map/ecu! You can imagine your average Guzzi owner who is so mean they can peel and eat an orange without taking their hands out of their pockets lining up around the block for that can’t you? NOT! No doubt there will be the usual tribes of clueless charlatans jumping out from behind bushes waving their cheap fetishes to ward off the demons of ‘Power sapping emissions controls forced on us by the evil gubmint’ by tricking some aspect of the sensors to pour in and waste more fuel and damage the engine and environment for no gain but they’ve been around forever! Hopefully they won’t actually do anything downright dangerous, but who knows? Since I don’t think I’ll ever own one of these shiny, glittering monsters it doesn’t really matter to me. I retired yesterday. My shit all works. I’m good.

I thought this was the Regularly Scheduled Program . . . The connecter for the fuel level sensor unplugs, but does not unscrew. There are two small lines that attach to two nipples under the tank for vent and overflow. If they have no lines on them, consider routing them to a "Y" and a line out under the bike behind the engine as gstallons had posted. Your petcock has been converted from an electrical to a manual (a good thing), but the knob can be hard to get completely closed by hand. I'm not sayin' you'll need six foot ChannelLocks, but I know a guy that has 'em if you need 'em . . . If you can see the K&N just by lifting the tank, your air box lid has been modified. There are several ways to do that, but intake from the top of the box makes it more important that none of the heat shielding on the underside of the tank is loose and can block air flow.

Yup, completely different frames, a couple of years ago there were some pics put up of them side by side, can't remember where exactly. I think that a lot of it has to do with the market the bikes were aimed at The Breva is clearly aimed at the stodgy, conservative set. The Griso isn't. Breva and Norge along with the 1200 Sport which is really just a tarted up Breva get the cheap suspension. Neither bike has radical steering gemetry but the Griso's wide bars mean that it's very easy to muscle around and get to corner quickly but has straight line stability that many 'sports' bikes would envy. note that the big 'G' doesn't have a steering damper. Why? Because it doesn't need one! It's a superb 'road' bike. I'm hoping the 8V motor will simply make a good thing better! Pete

Beauty is in the eye of the beholder. https://ebay.us/m/UUIQQD

I figured it had to be the final transmission, and I also found the reason... The oil drain plug decided to go astray....